BMW Motorcycles:

Useful URL's, ETC.
Links to technical sources, people, websites, companies. 
PLUS!....How to get special characters printed or sent from your computer.  
AND, how to edit E-mail messages!


© Copyright, 2011, R. Fleischer

url.htm-78A

***NOTE!   This is article 78A. There is also a References page; it is 78B,
which has a LOT of information!  If what you want is not here on 78A, try 78B. 
I suggest you look at 78B in depth!


I have NO financial stake or other interest in ANY company or product I recommend!


Firstly, here is a brief bit on how to edit E-mail Messages:

I will keep this as simple as possible.  You will need to practice...so....simply take any message you have received, press REPLY, and play with the message.  NOTE that Pressing REPLY is not the same as REPLY ALL, or FORWARD, in some programs.
Experiment.  So long as you have not pressed SEND, you won't 'send' your 'practicing'.

Just exactly what happens when you try to REPLY to a message, will depend somewhat on the settings you have, and what type of E-mail program you are using.  So, this is a generic, fits-most, reply, mostly for Windows computers.....some things here fits
Mac computers too.  

This type of editing is fairly universal, and you will find it in most word processing programs, even that ode to complexity, called Microsoft WORD (or its simpler cousin, WORDPAD, heck, even the bare-bones Notepad).

First, set your E-mail program, if you can, so that replies to micapeak.com (or, most any internet mailing list) are in PLAIN TEXT.  Yes, I know that micapeak's present mail program will strip off html, but I have other reasons...and don't feel like getting into this here.  PLAIN TEXT means that all colors, images, and various special effects are NOT available, and therefore NOT SENT.  Don't try to send images to micapeak.com....micapeak will strip them off.   Just where in the E-mail program preferences or Options, you can set this, is a matter of what program you use.

Set your E-mail program preferences so that the original message is always quoted in the reply.   That makes it easier to have the message you are replying to, be on the page, and you can then edit out what you do not want left.  You can add notes inside that message, if you want to, by identifying YOUR portion.  I do that now and then by placing ASTERISKS in front of my reply.  Usually replying to messages does not need to have this method used.

There are arguments on this subject, but...please, folks, I do NOT want to get into an argument about this!...... internet etiquette IS that replies are placed AFTER quoting the original (which you are going to edit so only the needed information is left).   That
means that replies are NOT placed at the beginning of quoted material.

BASIC EDITING:
To edit out parts you do not want sent, there are several ways.  In the REPLY mode, use your mouse to move the cursor to the beginning of the part you want to delete, and click once.  That changes the cursor typically to blinking and places it at that point.  You can now eliminate what you want by EITHER holding the left button down WHILE you move the mouse, which highlights the area to be removed; or, you can move the stationary mouse cursor to the END of what portion you want to eliminate, hold the SHIFT
key down, and while that key is down, left click the mouse.  That has now highlighted the area, same as the other method.  Press DELETE.

Note that the computer 'works on' areas you HIGHLIGHTED.  Highlighting is important.

The above is basic.  There are a FEW commands you might want to know.   Some folks like to find some of these on the toolbar, near the top of your E-mail program, but here are some important key strokes:
1.  To COPY an already highlighted area (perhaps you want to copy and move a paragraph or section, or copy to someplace else in the computer, or print that part, or any number of reasons), press the Ctrl key, and HOLD IT DOWN, and while HELD DOWN, press the c key. That copies the highlighted section into what is called, in Windows, the Clipboard.   It remains there until you either put something else there, or, turn off the computer.
2.  To PASTE that copied item, to anyplace in a page, click the mouse pointer so the cursor is at the place you want to put the information you copied.  Then press Ctrl, hold it, and press v.   You can do this multiple times if you ever had a reason.
3.  Instead of JUST copying, as in 1., above, if you wanted to copy AND delete the highlighted area, use Ctrl and X, instead of Ctrl and c.

NOTE!  By commonly accepted computer practice, using two keys at one time is shown as Ctrl + c; or Ctrl + v; or Ctrl + x,  to describe key movements.  You do not type the spaces and the plus sign.

Note that you can copy not only text, but images, in the same way.
Near the end of this long page you are reading, is explained how to get special characters into your E-mails.

 

HINT:   Those that RECEIVE your messages may have trouble editing out old material when they post back to you.   This is due to the wide variety of coding behind the scenes on the various E-mail programs.   The answer to this problem is for YOU to send messages in PLAIN TEXT format.  All e-mail programs have that capability, usually via some semi-hidden setting.  Of course, the down side is that PLAIN TEXT eliminates your ability to use colors (other than basic black) and other html things.


Below are Internet sites that, somewhat differently, give you part numbers, or allow you to look up part numbers from sketches; also these have prices, etc.  Each of these websites does things differently...so if you need some sort of tech or? information on a part, you might want to try them all.

When entering part numbers most sites do NOT want the hyphens nor spaces between the numbers groups.  (sometimes we do need to enter known part numbers, not just search for the proper part number).

Here are the four websites I use now and then for finding part numbers or for entering part numbers:

http://www.ascycles.com/illustrated_parts_catalog_main.aspx

http://www.realoem.com/bmw   
This website works nicely by model, year, and you can go back as far as 1948 if you use the Archive feature.  I particularly like using this realoem website.

 

Here is one with lots of information:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp

 

The last one, not meaning last choice, would be A & S cycles:
http://www.ascycles.com/
There is a place on that main page to click for the parts catalog.

 

Every one of the above websites uses a form of the BMW parts catalog with useful sketches (often referred-to as the ETK catalog), but they are not all the same, nor do they all work the same.  I suggest you try each one of the four, above, and give a hard look-see at the illustrated parts listings, and then decide which one of them you like the best. 

All will sell you parts, of course.

Keep in mind that any more local dealership, or independent, that you develop a relationship with (particular a first-name basis) is likely going to be the place you will get the best service from, for parts, and sometimes advice on parts, etc.   THIS KBMW Yahoo LIST, however, has, generally, the best knowledge available when you have a problem.

 

Two last mentions:

(1) Motobins of England; and some of the German sites, may be useful at times.  Many times Motorbins is cheaper, even after freight is considered.

(2) Do NOT forget your local dealer, who may well offer a discount, if you are a good customer and you ask!    If that local dealership has a knowledgeable parts person, you are doubly benefited.

NOTE!... A BMW independent service company that I can recommend is Ted Porter's Beemershop. They are very knowledgeable about parts and service, and STOCK airhead parts!   It is OFTEN to your great advantage to speak to someone in a parts department that KNOWS airheads!!!  Many a time (!!!), these folks will steer you in the correct direction; when just ordering from someone else via a part number YOU provide (or they provide!), might get you into trouble.   I can recommend Beemershop for quality and honest repair work of all types on your BMW bike.    www.beemershop.com   Located in California.   My comments here apply to K bikes too!

The PRIMARY source for technical information, especially if you need it fast, is the Airheads Beemer Club mailing LIST, also called the Airlist.  Information on subscribing is at the top of my technical index page:   techindex.htm   yes, that is hyperlinked.    I say PRIMARY, because while my website is intended as a major reference source, that LIST covers anything and everything, and you can usually get a reply rather quickly.   Once a LIST member, you also have access to the list archives.  A MAJOR reason to join that LIST is the LARGE number of Airhead owners on it; and the various Guru's; who will reply.
For those who are already Members, here is the archives address:

http://micapeak.com/archives/airheads/login.php

The primary source for technical help for Classic K bikes, is the KBMW list on yahoo groups.
 

A lot of information is also on Anton Largiader's website. 
http://largiader.com
Lots of GOOD stuff.  You can also use:
http://www.largiader.com/tech/


Whilst some of the 'guru's' on the Airlist tend to discourage direct inquiries (I do!... as they would benefit only one person), at least one does not:
Oak Okleshen:    AskOak@aol.com

Oak writes a new technical article, published every month in the Airheads Beemer Club magazine called AIRMAIL.    See joinclub.htm for information on joining the Club.   Oak has an index of past articles available.   He also does SUPERB repair work!  Oak was MY personal mentor/guru....or whatever you want to call the relationship; from AFTER I worked as a BMW wrench for myself and for a BMW dealership.  If you contact him to do repair work for you, be sure to ask about how long the job will take.

My personal recommendations for repair work are OAK (Chicago area, and noted above); Ted Porter who is on the West Coast and does business as www.beemershop.com; and Bob Clement in Montana who does business as BMW Montana.  There ARE others I CAN recommend.

Tom Cutter is in the East Coast area, doing business as the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage.

 

Electrics:   

A source for all sorts of electrical items for all BMW motorcycles; and some Guzzi and even Laverda!....is  http://www.Euromotoelectrics.com.    They are at 18195 Augusta Drive, in Monument, Colorado.  (719) 487-9397.  They stock electric's items, including ignition items, starters, alternators, parts to repair these, and so on.  They also repair these things...and also have the EnDuraLast Alternator (it is THEIR product); and, many items that are NOT available from BMW, such as internal diodes and regulators for the oilhead and K bike alternators.....and so on.   Compare their prices with BMW's on BMW-sold parts.    I don't have any financial stake here, this is just a hint.   They carry Bosch repair parts, Valeo repair parts, and new Valeo starters (both 8 and 9 tooth, with the updated magnet structures).

 I have NO financial stake or other interest in ANY company or product I recommend!

There are other sources for some types of electrics, such as Thunderchild, and Motorrad Elektrik (Rick is very helpful, and their alternator product is the Omega).  www.motoelekt.com

Here is a good source:
Jim Davis, owner, Eastern Beaver Company:
http://easternbeaver.com/ 
Motorcycle Relay Kits, Modulator Kits, Powerlet, Centech, Posi-Lock, and other parts.   A knowledgeable guy, with a somewhat different viewpoint at times.  Quality products, some of which are VERY handy.

Here is the URL for the Chicago Region BMW Club, the source for their various repair manuals.
http://www.crbmw.com
The tuneup manual; 10K manual, tire manual, etc., is still available. 
The Electrics manual, now priced at $30 (?),  is simply THE best electrics manual for airheads, and Oak was primarily responsible for that manual.  HIGHLY recommended.  This is THE Airhead electrics manual to own!
That website also has some information on the background of that Club, and the background on Oak, etc., and those various manuals.     There is a CRITIQUE of the electrics manual on MY site:   chitechelmn.htm    If you own one of these manuals, I suggest you use my critique, to update your manual.


A few more references


http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/KRADRIDER

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/
This is Phil Hawksley's website.....lots of good information there.  

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/kbmw
Yeah, I know, a K bike group.  A good one.  I participate on that LIST

 

http://www.beemergarage.com/bulletin.html
Has factory bulletins for the pre-/5 bikes.
http://www.beemergarage.com/literature.html  This URL for them has a LOT of literature, all sorts of
things, definitely worth a long look-see.  This one is NOT just for the pre-/5.


http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash2/

http://www.bmwbike.com/
This URL link will take you to the Mark Huggett BMW Mobile Tradition site.....a source and reference for, especially, OLD BMW parts, restorations, work, etc.


OLDER BMW MOTORCYCLES (and, in some cases, the /5 and /6 models too):

This section has a list of sources for parts, information, literature, technical and every sort of help for your PRE-1970 BMW motorcycle.  In alphabetical order (sort-of).   SOME of those listed are also good sources for POST-1970.

Mobile Tradition is BMW's own outlet for information, parts, etc., for older BMW products.  BMW has been changing the website address for such as their Mobile Tradition Teilekatalog, and you may have to do a search, or contact your dealership, to find out the correct web address.

NOTE!    Snowbum has not worked on Vintage BMW bikes in decades.  Snowbum's extensive notebooks on the /2 era bikes disappeared around 1975.   Please refer to knowledgeable folks listed on this page, not Snowbum!

NOTE:  See article 78B for lots of additional references, for airheads....and some pre-airheads.

Duane Ausherman:   His website with a lot of technical articles covers much of the /2 era, as well as the /5 and some applicable to later models.  He has a somewhat unique way of presenting information that you may appreciate:     http://w6rec.com
This is also the home to Randy Glass' major and SUPERB illustrated article on /5 (and later) front fork alignment.   

Bayrische Magnetzünder    http://www.magnetos.de    German website, magnetos parts and service


Bob's BMW   http://www.bobsbmw.com
A good source

Blue Moon BMW.  Online catalog, exploded parts diagrams.  Bikes, parts, tech.
http://www.bluemooncycle.com

Boxerworks.    http://www.boxerworks.com

Clever BMW tools, videos, and help:    Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the /2 era, until the Airheads stopped production in  the late 90's. He had a rather extensive line of tools, some VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff.    Doing a run-through of his website is informative to many folks.  Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216   (913) 871-6740.  Contact the new owner at:  Dan@cycleworks.net ((NOT .com!!)). The url is: www.cycleworks.net  
MORE TOOLS:   FOR SURE see my ENTIRE tools.htm article!!!!

Darryl Richman.  Reach him through his website  http://darryl.crafty-fox.com   Lots of knowledge and can probably direct you to where you need to go for things.

http://www.ebay.com
THE premier auction site.    Some sources for vintage BMW parts even have full-time stores run through Ebay.

Alex Gaenssle.      Machine shop and other work.   In Germany.  English spoken. 
His old website address does NOT work.

John's Beemer Garage.   Catalogs, drawings.
http://www.beemergarage.com
http://www.beemergarage.com/bulletin.html
Has factory bulletins for the pre-/5 bikes.

Kradrider LIST      War bikes    http://geschichte.cjb.cc/d2b

Mark Hugget GmbH; in Switzerland.   Restoration forum, on-line shop, lots of parts.
http://www.bmwbike.com

Old Timers Garage.   New made parts.   Poland.  http://www.oldtimergarage.szn.pl

Slash 2.    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash2/
One of the Yahoo groups.   It does NOT deal 'just' with the /2 bikes, but with all vintage BMW bikes:

Hans Radstaack   h.radstaack@planet.nl.   Dutch specialist, speaks English.  For early magnetos.
Vintage BMW Motorcycles. One of the many Yahoo Groups
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vintagebmwmotorcycles/

Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners    http://www.vintagebmw.org

meyer-bikes.com   In Germany!


Bench Mark Works, Craig Vechorik:   http://www.benchmarkworks.com
An excellent source for information, parts, and technical help, etc.    Two divisions, one in Mississippi, one in Canada.
Snowbum disagrees with his remarks on not using GL5 oil.
Vetch stocks parts for the old BMW's....and quite a few for the later bikes, including manuals and other literature.   Well worth your time to browse this site.  Almost a must if you have a pre-airhead (before 1970 models).

http://www.motorrad-stemler.de    check it out for /2 parts sketches/etc.

****I don't typically discuss the /2 and /3 bikes.  I also do not follow Vech's site, nor the sites for the older bikes. Two reasons.  One is that my huge notebooks on the /2 and /3 era bikes was somehow lost.   The other reason is that these old bikes have a specialized following, some of whom are much more knowledgeable than I am...as my memory has faded on them over the years, as I got further and further away from working on them.  However, there are some sources for information, such as /2 LIST on the internet, and in a very few books. One of the books that is just about a must to own is the Barrington Motor Works BMW /2 Restoration and Service Manual.  This is a well done book, reviewed by many 'experts' in the field before it was published.  The book is roughly $100, and worth it.
contact brrngmtrwks@metrocast.net  or call 607-664-2673


MODEL SPECIFIC SITES:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/5united/
http://www.slash5.net/
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash5-BS/
I am sure you can figure out what -BS means on the above

http://www.R65.org    That is for R45 and R65
http://www.bmwr65.org

 

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/R90SWORLDNET

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/R80STriders

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/kbmw     This is almost entirely for the CLASSIC K bikes (K1, K75, K100, K1100).   High on TECH.

You can get a list of motorcycle makes, models, various groups, from the server at micapeak.com:
http://www.micapeak.com/mailman/listinfo

 Just one such group is:  http://www.micapeak.com/bmw/gs/
((and, that above URL has a lot more than just GS.  You will find good descriptions of all the various Monolever and Paralever bikes, including GS; G/S; ST.....))
 


OTHER SITES:

http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
for serial numbers and general production dates, there are several sites for this sort of thing, here is another one:
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/chassis.html

There is a vin decoder of a different sort on my (this) site too....see the article IDnumbrs.htm   Lots of information, including HOW TO READ VIN NUMBERS.

http://www.dynaonline.com/english/instruct/index.htm
Instruction sheets for Dyna ignition conversions, etc.

http://www.bmwmoa.org
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America website.  Click on Country Store to get back issues.


Mike Hamende has sold Airhead Salvage and Sales, that was near Austin Texas.
The company is now called Martindale Motorcycle Works, in Martindale, Texas...it is still in business; ....airhead, oilhead, and K salvaged parts. 
The new owner is Mike Orloff.
The new phone number is (512) 357-3842
Same website and e-mail address as before:
Mike@airheadsalvage.com
http://www.airheadsalvage.com
http://stores.ebay.com/Airhead-Motorcycle-Salvage-Sales

See my REFERENCES page for more salvage places, MORE sources for parts and sources for most everything else.

Koni no longer makes shocks for our airheads.  The Koni name and tooling was sold, and the new company DOES have products, including repair parts: http://www.ikonsuspension.com/
You can also probably get the Ikon AND Koni parts you need (or, even overhauls) from Dave Gardner;  ikonusa@gmail.com.  He is located in San Francisco.

Hagon Shocks:   
Hagon Products Co.    7  Roebuck Road; Hainault Industrial Estate; Essex IG6 3JH; England
www.hagonshocks.co.uk
phone:   0208 0502 6222; fax:  0208 502 6274

Wilbers is a good aftermarket shock, available from sources that are Members of the Airheads Mailing List, of micapeak.com

 

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SCT
Sidecars, SideCarTalk is the group name, sometimes referred to as SCT2.   This is THE group for sidecar technical help.
NOTE.....there is a sidecar section on my website, more than just one article...but....here is a link to just one article, it has some sidecar specific URL's:  sidecarURL.htm

Lots of references are on the Airheads Club website:
http://www.airheads.org 
That website has technical articles written by myself....and many others.  Click on that main page under Technical Tips. a clickable link on the left side of the page.  There are quite a few pages to the Technical Tips section.

Bing carburetor page.....scan down to your carburetor model, and then see what components it is made up of:
http://www.bingpower.com/english/service/einstellblaetter.html

Here is the name of a source for electrical sockets, plugs, cables, kits, far beyond what is in most autoparts stores or your BMW dealership.  High quality stuff here.     Powerlet Products.   You can do a Google on that, or try Whitehorse Press, they have a catalog that includes Powerlet Products.   Powerlet's website is the more comprehensive.  Here is information on a solid source, repeated from earlier:
Jim Davis, Owner, Eastern Beaver Company:
http://easternbeaver.com/ 
Motorcycle Relay Kits, Modulator Kits, Powerlet, Centech, Posi-Lock, Parts.   A knowledgeable guy, with a somewhat different viewpoint at times.  Quality products, some of which are VERY handy.

Speedometer work:   North Hollywood Speedometer     www.nhspeedometer.com
( I can no longer recommend P.A.S. for such work).

 

TOOLS:
You can usually obtain, relatively cheaply, the high quality tools that came in the bike's tool kit, from your BMW dealership.   BMW factory special tools are pricey.   See my tools.htm article on this website for more information.


TOOLS:  clever BMW tools, videos, and help:    Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the /2 era, until the Airheads stopped production in  the late 90's. He had a rather extensive line of tools, some VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff.    Doing a run-through of his website is informative to many folks.  Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216   (913) 871-6740.  Contact the new owner at:  Dan@cycleworks.net ((NOT .com!!)). The url is:    www.cycleworks.net  

NOTE!...I have a major article on TOOLS....  tools.htm.
That article lists LOTS of tool sources, besides the above one.  Be sure to read that article fully (besides the humor at the top).


Computer 'characters' (no, not your crazy friends):

What follows is NOT intended to be a course in ANSI/ASCII and other characters, but is intended to give you a working knowledge, and quickly.
 This is for your information so you can put the characters you want into WORD and other word processing documents, as well as in E-Mails!!

 

First, a wee bit of information.   Way back when we first started using personal computers, there was a set of 256 characters, numbered from 0 to 255, in order to standardize things.   Two standards were used, that have some close similarities.  There was  the America Standard Code for Information Interchange, ASCII, and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI).   Most of the letters, numbers, and a few other things like grammatical items such as these:  )(*&^%$#@ and others, are ANSI specified.       Our modern computers have text formatting and many other things, like margins being specified, bold, italic, underline, tabs, and embedded objects, and things got complicated.    ASCII does not support layout nor embedded objects....and is often just called DOS or PLAIN TEXT.  ASCII and ANSI are often used interchangeably, and often wrongly, but for our purposes here, just use the special characters in the slang and generic way:  ASCII (ass-key) symbols.    There are VASTLY more than 256 needed for modern computers.  We have all sorts of different world-wide languages that need to be displayed on screens, and a whole vast array of punctuation marks, that are commonly used even for basic English.   Accent marks of numerous types are an example.     The bottom line is that almost any symbol is available to YOU, from YOUR computer.   But, you need a lot more than 256 to cover the world of need.   On a practical basis, you obtain the characters from a character map chart, or, from a printed chart showing all the various forms.

What I will show here in this article is the simple way of using these things.

Foreign characters; special punctuation marks; degree symbol, and many dozens more are available from your computer.  I will give information here for Windows computers.  There are TWO basic METHODS of getting these characters on screen from a basic computer.  ONE method in Windows systems is to find the Character Map (Usually some thing like this path: Start->Programs->Accessories->System Tools->Character map) and use it. IT IS SLOW TO DO IT THIS WAY, SINCE YOU MUST DO SEVERAL OPERATIONS.  Still, the character map can be useful.  You might want to put a shortcut to the Character map on the desktop (before clicking to bring the program on screen, right click the listing, and send it to the desktop as a shortcut).   Using the Character Map is a bit of a hassle. You might want to spend some time looking at the various Character Map versions (try also changing the font inside the Character Map...won't affect your other computer uses).  It does allow you access to hundreds of special symbols, all sorts of fonts variations, which have their own sets of characters sometimes, and so on.
 

***NOTE!.....programs like Microsoft WORD have these symbols built-in, and you can call up the chart while composing or editing in WORD.  There are a number of various charts located at the same access box.  Although it may not seem intuitive, and probably isn't, the various charts are called up by asking for different FONTS in the SYMBOL program ITSELF.  For example, in Office WORD 2007, you can find the function by clicking on INSERT, and then selecting what you want, which is either the sub-heading EQUATION (yes, has those too!)....or, in this case, SYMBOL.   Select the character (try different FONTS, see how it changes things a lot).

 MOST of you will only use A FEW ANSI/ASCII characters, and there is a MUCH easier way of dealing with them, which follows below:
Here is primarily what you will probably end up knowing.....and using!....


Certain keyboard key stroke COMBINATIONS will put ASCII/ANSI characters on the screen.  Although the font you have your computer set up to use, in any one program (WORD, or E-mail, or whatever), will somewhat determine certain things about these ASCII characters; 99% of the time you won't care about the differences, and will simply use the key stroke combinations to bring up the desired character.  This is done by you pressing and holding the ALT key, ...and then, while still holding that key, enter a THREE OR FOUR digit number from the RIGHT SIDE keyboard pad.   You can, if you want to, turn ON the NumLock key first.  Computer folks refer to these characters as ASCII characters (although sometimes it is ANSI they should call it, and as a general rule, no one does that!).  Originally, as noted, there were combinations available for 256 of these particular characters.     If they show on your screen, they USUALLY will display OK on other folks screens.  There are a few exceptions.  The 'and' symbol (&), might show a question mark...and a few other anomalies...on FOREIGN (NON-USA non-English keyboarding) computers.   For a rather complete listing of all these characters (be prepared to print them):
http://www.keyboardhelp.net


Here is an example of a few ASCII symbols and how to get them.   Note that in many instances of foreign letter characters, ASCII characters are available in both lower and upper case.   HERE, the plus sign, +, means only that you HOLD the ALT key down, and then at the same time, push the number keys on the RIGHT side of your keyboard, one after another.   Laptop owners may need to press the Fn key, or some other combination, and there is no right side number keyboard for laptop owners....so, for laptop owners, see your documentation.

°, the degree symbol, is ALT + 0176    
¢, the cents symbol, is ALT + 0162
£, the money pound symbol, is ALT + 0163
©, the copyright symbol, is ALT + 0169
¿, the Spanish beginning sentence question mark, is ALT + 0191
ü, the widely used German character, is ALT + 0252.   You can, as with most letters, get the upper case.  Here it is   Ü,   from ALT + 0220
 
The ASCII chart listings include 'strange' punctuation marks, even a space non-character and some exponent numbers, and some fractions.

NOTE:  when you type on your keyboard, for 'regular' letters (both upper and lower case), and all numbers, and all punctuation, ETC., as shown on your keyboard, those are all actually ASCII/ANSI; that your computerconverts to an ALT + xxxx type electronic signal.  This is a very simplified way of describing it, but is adequate here.      Beginning at ALT + 0140,  non-keyboard characters are available. 

NOTE:  If you went into your Windows computer settings for KEYBOARD (start>control panel>keyboard), you could reset your keyboard for quite a few foreign styles.  UNfortunately, you would need to catalog and then remark your keys unless you owned a foreign-marked keyboard.  When you travel to foreign countries, which often, but not always use foreign keyboards, they MAY OR MAY NOT be using a keyboard corresponding to that country's settings for the keyboard.  You can reset the setting, as noted; or, you must find out which are the important keys you must know.   This is the ONE key combination that may drive you nuts when in a foreign country, so ASK a local person if you can not find it, is the @ symbol.   The @ symbol may require two keystrokes; just like in bringing up an ASCII symbol.  You can't send E-mail without the @ symbol.
FYI, the USA/English keyboard basic way to get the @ symbol is:  ALT + 64
yes, that was only TWO digits.


For those of you using WORD, there are all sorts of interesting characters available, depending on how WORD is set up, and the year of the WORD.  Microsoft greatly expanded all this for WORD 2007 (well, really Office WORD 2007).  You can get all sorts of math characters, math equations, etc....not just the characters that Microsoft supplies in everyone's Windows computers in the character map (and the ASCII key strokes).  I will be happy to provide information on how to use the key strokes, etc., if you are confused by all this.  But, DO print that keyboardhelp website information...it has basic instructions too.

NOT all available characters are available on your computer.  ALSO, there are many combinations NOT shown.  

 

Revisions: 
03/12/2006:  incorporated all prev. revisions, and updated URL's for parts and prices sources, re-arrange order of things for clarity.
05/22/2006:  add http://vintagebmw.org
07/19/2006:  update URL's, and information on a few companies
08/01/2006:  add R45/R65 URL; and r-arrange the entire page
01/13/2007:  update salvage yards
02/16/2007:  re-arrange for electrics stuff in one area; add latest contact info for Chitech; P.A.S. note
06/01/2007:  minor editing.   
06/02/2007:  more ASCII information; add Jim Davis' Eastern Beaver
08/06/2007:  Update Anton's website URL information
12/14/2007:  added more info on beemergarage
01/01/2008:  Fix Chicago BMW Club address
01/03/2008:  Add hyperlink for German words
01/06/2008:  move driveshaft information to References page
01/07/2008:  fix moa.org country store hyperlink problem
01/07/2008:  fix crbmw.org website url; remove "For the R80GS and R100GS, only, take a look at:   wendell/gs/node1.html  The
                     link and top domain is dead
01/18/2008:  remove F, OT, Z, S information to article 39
01/19/2008:  Update Cycleworks (tools)
07/10/2009:  Minor updates, re: Barrington
08/31/2009:  update on Chicago's manuals.  Check buchanan's site...still has wrong notations.
10/31/2009:  lots of updating of URLs, information, etc.
12/31/2009:  Update entire article, add lots more to ASCII too.
01/01/2010:  Add Mobile Tradition information, which was inadvertently left out during a prior update
03/16/2010:  Clean up the article....still messy, but I eliminated MANY duplications, huge font changes, etc.
03/27/2010:  Updated Airhead Salvage information
04/20/2010:  Remove and modify some hyperlinks
08/22/2010:  Update Vech's URL
09/21/2010:  Clean up article a bit.
11/25/2010:  Clean up and clarify my listing of websites for ETK type information; and add some commentary
01/15/2011:  remove references, thunderchild and buchanan pages...I have the information in trbleshootalt.htm
04/13/2011:  Add editing information
06/04/2011:  Add bmwr65.org link
08/19/2011:  Add Meyer bikes link
10/21/2011:  Remove Chicago BMW, as was going out of business

 

 

©Copyright 2011, R. Fleischer

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