BMW Motorcycles:
TOOLS
tools.htm-65
©
Copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer
Before we get into the meat of this article, here are a few things you need to know about tools:
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far
from the object we are trying to hit with the hammer.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing seats and motorcycle jackets, and has been known to
cause visits to places that stitch up wounds.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their holes until
you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting
holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear
wheel.
PLIERS and VISE-GRIPS:
Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat
to the palm of your hand.
HACKSAW and AVIATION METAL SNIP:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked,
unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence it's
course, the more dismal your future becomes.
OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in
your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a
brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS and wrenches:
Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they
are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch
socket or wrench you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal
bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest
and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
freshly painted drying part.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint
whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses from your fingers in about
the time it takes you to say "Ouch....".
Thrown wires have been known to remove eyesight permanently.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after you have
installed your new front disc brake setup, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the front fender. Sometimes used to
break fins off of oil pans.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:
Used for levering a motorcycle upward off a hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS:
A tool for removing wood splinters which you got from using the
above item without gloves. Indispensable item for removing
microscopic whiskers of metal that jumped into your fingers.
PHONE:
Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack; and for testing the Phone System, on a rainy night in
nowhere'sville, while your special passenger, never having been
on a long ride before,
and for whom you are trying to impress, is wondering if
motorcycling is REALLY fun....and, you are wondering about the
tent and sleeping bag you did not bring along.
GASKET SCRAPER:
Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading
mayonnaise. Used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
All scrapers should be inspected before making sandwiches.
E-Z OUT, or other BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool that snaps off on angles that can't be center-punched for
drilling and removing, and is ten times harder than
any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT:
A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease and grunge
buildup on rotating machinery.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST:
A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps
and brake lines you have forgotten to disconnect.
1/2" x 16"-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A large motor mount and other prying tool that inexplicably has an
accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposing the
handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER:
A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to
the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is
dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
TROUBLE LIGHT:
The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light,
it usually drops heavy enough to break its lamp. It
may be a source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin",
which is not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health
benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume light bulbs at
about the same rate that 105-mm Howitzer shells might be used
during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More
often dark than light, its name is some-what misleading.
Many folks can be found shaking these tools as the light goes on
and off.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil
cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used to round off Phillips screw heads. (Note: some cheaper
models are designed to round themselves off quickly in order to save
screw heads)
Posi-driv screw: Unique screw that is often tightened or loosened with the above Phillips screwdriver that will slip before proper torque can be applied. If you have a genuine non-slipping Posi-driv screwdriver, consider yourself some sort of nerd.
Bristol wrench screw: A screw head that a brief glance seems to indicate that it is an Allen head type; and the screw is designed to frustrate you purposely; no auto-parts store clerk has ever hear of the name Bristol, and will look at you weirdly.
Allen screw: A female hex head screw
that is designed to frustrate you because it is never marked as
to size, nor if Metric or American. Rounding off one
does not make for a good day.
AIR COMPRESSOR:
A machine used to collect water from the outside air and attempt
to mix it with paint. Some say that it is a machine
that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant hundreds
of miles away and transforms that into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips
rusty bolts last tightened 50 years ago by someone
someplace.....and rounds them off nicely. Mostly
these are used nowadays with a hand-nozzle to blow small parts
into corner areas where they can not be found.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket
you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
TORQUE WRENCH:
A sophisticated tool to test the strength of various fasteners
and threaded joints.
ARC WELDER:
A device that produces an electrical short that allows 'welding
rods' to be stuck to the surface until they glow red. The
operator wears a hood he cannot see out of.
TUBING BENDERS:
These come in various designs with the main purpose being to bend
a perfectly straight piece of steel tubing into various shapes
that are good for absolutely nothing.
POWER BANDSAW:
A device used to destroy small circular shaped metal bands with
teeth on one side of them.
CORDLESS DRILL and various other cordless electric tools:
Developed to enhance the profit and loss statements of the
battery industry.
CHUCK KEYS:
One of the most commonly lost tools. You never know what type and
size to purchase after you lose one.
Screw Extractor of the type known as an EZY-out: A common
tool used to break itself off in bolts that are already broken.
TORX DRIVERS:
Formerly the mystery tool to install or remove like-named
mysterious fasteners. These are slowly being phased out as new
mystery fasteners have been developed. There are
several types of products that, at first glance, look like Torx
parts, such as your Airhead's rod bolts, but turn out to be a
different type, after you ruin the bolt, which is a BMW only
part. A special Torx screw was designed with a raised
tit in the middle, purposely to keep your grubby hands out of
various electronics products in your home. The people
who designed that security screw are the same ones that designed
one-way screws of various types. They belong to the Torx S
& M Club.
TOOL BOX:
A place to store tools that you never need. Very large tool boxes are for placing in beds of pickups, so as
to be more easily lost when you leave the tailgate open. It is
helpful to NOT have a rubber bottomed bed, and to leave oily
greasy residue in the bed.
TOOL WARRANTY: A piece of paper with printing on it,
listing complicated and expensive methods of coping with the
tool's insane warranty, that no one keeps, and MAY not necessary
with Sears Roebuck tools anyway, providing you read the smallest
print and can interpret the Sears "Warranty Change of the
Day".
IMPACT DRIVER: An ingenious and substantial round metal device with a hidden internal two-way cam; used for loosening tight fasteners, especially on old Japanese motorcycles, or any with phillips or similar looking heads, by using the natural muscle spasm of the operator holding the tool, when his hand, at the webbing between thumb and forefinger, is struck by the hammer. Known to be accompanied by loud screams, often occurring during the brief period of time just after using this tool to remove frozen Bing Carburetor dome screws, during which the operator has broken the ear off the carburetor, due to failure to put a substantial block of metal under the ear.
Snap-On: Manufacturer/distributor of high quality chrome plated or polished tools of vast numbers of types, that are mostly nice to display on the wall to impress visitors to your garage with your status in life; whilst your real working set are actually Sears Craftsman (except for a FEW Snap-On types that you use to show off your snobbery, at any and all occasions where would-be Wrenches grovel at your feet, awaiting pearls of wisdom).
Flashlight: A containment vessel for leaking batteries
***************************OK,
let's get serious:***************************
Buy the best tools you can afford, unless you have a good reason not to do so.
MANY of the BMW tools are NOT expensive....especially the open end and box end type of wrench....and may be cheaper than
even Sears!....and BMW tools are made of GOOD metal!
To do a good job use the right tool. Your BMW Airhead came from the factory with
a GOOD, made of high quality metals, tool kit....with FEW exceptions.
This was especially so for the earlier models. There
are SOME exceptions:
(1) The plastic handled screwdriver with the
reversible phillips/conventional tip, was almost cheap junk...but
usable...unless overly torqued. I find it hardly useful.
BTW....most of the carburetor top
screws are not REALLY phillips.
(2) The so-called Dogbone wrench's tube type 27 mm end is not strong enough for the swing
arm pin locking nuts. The other end of this dogbone wrench is 36 mm hex,
and is very useful, particularly if modified. The dogbone
wrench was also made in a type with a 41 mm flat end....for later
model bikes.
(3) The pliers should be discarded in favor of one more useful and easier
to use (the stock one is also typically way too stiffly assembled).
There was a Master Tool Kit available that had a few extra items, and some slightly different versions of the standard tools. SOME of the tools in the Master Kit had different combinations of SIZES. Some of those tools later became the standard for the bike's kits as shipped, and also in a number of instances, some of the original standard tools ordering numbers were superseded by the Master ("super tool kit") part numbers. Basically, either of those tool kits are quite adequate for most or at least many needs. The Master Tool Kit contains too many items, and is really not worth purchasing as a total kit. To properly maintain your airhead, you will need a modest collection of other tools. You need NOT go overboard on this. This article is to list the tools, and the BMW part numbers where I happen to know them, that I think should be on the bike, or someplace handy. This article ALSO lists some specialty tools that I think you should have. SOME of these tools really SHOULD be in your bike's tool kit.
NOTE
that I have made little attempt to check the part numbers with
any possible later changes. Your BMW dealer will do that
automatically.
Part I: Tools that should be part of the on-bike tool kit, or additions to same....and includes a discussion of some tools you can consider, and some that are a waste of money or just plain not needed.
This is not necessarily a complete list. This is NOT a TOTAL list of the tools that came with that as sold with bike kit!! Pick and choose. Some will NOT be applicable to YOUR bike. It is a very good idea to inspect your own airhead and determine just what tools you need at home, and what you need on the bike, and if you need two that cover one size. Note that if you mix American and Metric fittings, which is not a great idea for your bike, you may have to carry more tools.
Special note: BMW has made changes on hardware that WILL, or could, affect what tools you carry. Be on the lookout, in instances you are purchasing nuts and bolts from BMW, that your new nuts and bolts have the SAME SIZE HEADS as your originals. BMW has made some changes to the size of the heads, USUALLY using the same part number. As an example here, 18 mm heads, not the original 19 mm; 16, not 17. If you find this situation at the dealership, ASK if they have any original 19 or 17 mm; they may be in the same box, as they may WELL have same part number! There is no good reason you should have to carry an 18 mm & 16 mm wrenches besides the 19 and 17, if you know about this.
Best to look at the parts CD or on-line catalogs, or SNABBKATALOG, or see at your dealers screen, or, whatever you have available to you that shows drawings or pictures of these tools, before you go purchasing any. Again, check the sizes of the tools YOU need, and how many of each.
71-11-1-232-356 This wee wrench is three in one, with a 7 mm and 8 mm at end and middle, respectively, and an open 9 mm at one end. Not very useful, in actual practice, except on earliest airheads, somewhat.
71-11-1-237-858 Hook wrench
71-11-9-090-129 This tubular two ended wrench is used at the valve cover acorn nut, and a few other places. There are much better tools than this one, and it is a sloppy fit at the acorn nut anyway. You MAY like to have it in the bike tool tray. I think this one was 15 mm and a sloppy 19 mm, if I remember correctly.
07-11-9-906-032 8 mm allen wrench; in the Master Tool Kit this was part number 71-11-1-237-84907-11-9-906-020 5 mm allen wrench; in the Master Tool Kit this was part number 71-11-1-237-851
07-11-9-906-014 4 mm allen....replaced by 11-11-1-237-852
07-11-9-906-008 3 mm allen wrench; in the Master Tool Kit this was part number 07-11-1-237-853
71-11-1-230-684 special two-ended
wrench
(often called a
Dogbone wrench) that fits the early 36 mm fork top caps, early fork
top center acorn nut, 27 mm headlight ear 'nuts', and 27 mm swing arm lock nuts. It
was replaced by 71-11-1-237-857. Very
tough metal in the flat portion, can be used with a hammer or small sledgehammer for the
36 mm end usage. The 27 mm end is for emergency use only at
the swing arm nuts, although OK at the
headlight ears.
The 27 mm end may not fit FULLY into
MOST...or many... swing arm lock nut cavities, which MAY have,
upon close inspection, TWO different internal diameters or
ridges...and you should check this and grind the outside of the
27 mm end of this tool appropriately.
If you have any intention of actually using that 27 mm end, be
SURE it fits through the outer, through the second diameter, and
FULLY onto the nut! Any INternal taper of this wrench should
be ground away, as the swing arm nut is rather thin.
A wee bit of grinding wheel or sanding belt/disc action here is
the right way.
You can also weld a lever to it to make it
longer, or could cut a square into it for a 3/8" or
1/2" torque wrench drive.
I
grind the 36 mm flat end of the wrench for perhaps 90 or 120 degrees
circularly measured from the top, so that the relative end of
this 36 mm end is somewhat THINNER......that allows this wrench
to fit over the top acorn nut withOUT having to remove OR LOOSEN
the handlebars!! Scan
well down this article for a photo of the dogbone wrench, and
more comments on it. I use a modified 27 mm or
1-1/16" socket for the swing arm pivot locking nuts...see later
in this tools article for photos...and comments. ***Note: some folks use sockets for the fork
tube top nuts. Be
cautious, as nearly all sockets are made such that the inside of
the working end has a relief taper. I heartily suggest you
sand or use lathe or grind off the end, so it is FLAT, and there
is NO inside taper at the end. Failure to do this can let
the socket slip altogether too easily on the nuts, and round their corners;....I see this
on the 27 mm locknuts on the swing arm pins a lot. SEE the photo,
well below!!!
BMW
also makes this same style of dogbone wrench with
a 41 mm flat end (still same 27 mm hex at other end)...be sure you have the correct wrench for your
bike.
The 41 mm one is for the Earles fork BMW's, and for late Airheads.
Number is 71-11-2-303-517
See part II, below, item #3, for the SOCKET you should have, to fit the 27 mm swing arm nuts, to keep in your home garage tool kit....as it is vastly better than the above dog-bone tool...for THAT ONE PURPOSE. That socket also needs end modifications on inside AND outside.
71-11-9-090-139 Old exhaust pipe hook
wrench used for early models through /6. Don't purchase
unless you have the need. Frankly,
you do NOT need this wrench, and the best wrench to remove the
finned nut is an aftermarket type...big, heavy, finned, and not
what you'd normally carry. In an emergency you could purchase a
common Strap Wrench, but they CAN cause damage to the fins.
A small tool tray sized version of a finned wrench is available that is used with a
square drive socket wrench. I prefer the big old type
with a long handle and made of cast aluminum.
71-11-1-237-855, SHORT tire iron, was replaced by -871 which is the longer one. I prefer my tool kit to have TWO short, ONE long. I have been told that BMW discontinued the short irons. In that instance, I'd purchase and carry THREE long ones.
Tire repair kit: This depends on
whether or not you have tubes in your tires, or not. While you WILL want to carry a tire repair kit,
I
usually recommend against the CO2 bottles. I
HATE those CO2 small cylinders used for flat repairs....never enough of them
with you; and a very small 12 volt compressor, see below, is VASTLY better.
Important is something to de-bead the tire. I have made tools for
this from C-clamps with welded pieces on the anvils, and there are commercial
types available of strong light plastic that are cleverly designed,
others are massive. There are some complete kits...well, almost,
of tire irons, patches/plugs, glue,
whatever.....available. These may include a cylinder
(via spark plug hole) operated air compressor, they work fine. However, you can
also purchase, very cheaply, always under $20, a very small
electric compressor, and remove all the innards, including the
fan, and make a plug for it to fit your auxiliary jack....or
alligator clips to go directly to the battery. BOTH
of these types of compressors...spark plug...or electric... are
FAR nicer to have than the BMW hand pump that fit on the rear
frame, etc. FAR better than CO2 cartridges. The
electric compressors are also available for nearly $80, mounted
in a modest sized can/box. You can purchase the small
compressors at such as WalMart, and then remove and toss the
case. WalMart also likely has really small versions that need no
modifications but the correct BMW accessory plug (if
you want that). Coleman makes a small compressor that does
not need the case removed.
For some other ideas on tire repairs....see: http://www.stopngo.com
NOTE: StopnGo plugs don't work
exceptionally well with steel corded tires. If
you ream the hole really well, you can use them, but be prepared to replace the
plugs often if on a long trip.
Be sure that if you use the cylinder spark plug hole style of compressor, that the compressor hose is long enough. Do NOT forget a bead-breaker.....unless you are confident of using your foot (never good for me, I weigh 150)....or one side of the center-stand or the side-stand, etc. There are quite a few types of bead-breakers on the market. I prefer my homemade one, made from a very large C-clamp, with some added curved pieces welded to the anvils....same shape as the wheel rim edge...so it fits the tire right next to the rim.
71-11-1-230-752 The tool bag itself. The larger one was -237-870. The entire Master ("super") Tool Kit was -237-840
71-11-1-103-092 Pliers w/side cutter. Also there is the 71-11-1-237-861 a side cutter only tool. For both, there are better ones from most hardware stores. I really prefer a good heavier-duty side cutter pliers and a good old fashioned pump pliers. One could consider having a side cutter and a slip-joint type called a Channel-Lock. NOTE: BMW's version of the Channel-Lock is 71-11-1-237-862, which replaced 71-11-1-179-522.
71-11-9-090-154 feeler gauge set. A SMALL riveted together item, good quality (of course). You don't have to have this one, BUT... these feelers are nice and small. They are particularly convenient if you have POINTS, which have only a small amount of room to work in. For the valves, a common U.S. made set of feeler gauges, in 'go, no-go', is nice. You CAN use the above numbered BMW part for the valves. MANY FOLKS PREFER THE BMW TOOL! If you are a minimalist, you can carry just three standard feeler blades, or two if you have an electronics ignition bike. The sizes would be ONE that was ROUGHLY .017" (points), and one of .004" or .005", and one of .008" or .009", those for valves. Then, again, the BMW tool is small, folds up very nicely. The later BMW tool has a gauge for the ATE master cylinder that is under the fuel tank. You don't REALLY need a gauge for spark plugs, although it is part of the tool....or, you can get one of the round circle types that have WIRES...maybe 6 or 8 sizes....and they include a bending tool. Those are a bit better, wires do a more accurate job on worn spark plugs (grounding electrode gets concaved). The truth of the matter is that with 1000 ohm or 5000 ohm caps, no matter which you have, and whether points or electronic ignition, the spark plug gaps don't erode much over a reasonable spark plug life....of course, plug insulator life is pretty long these days with UNleaded gasoline's. Greg Feeler makes a round cylindrical tool for help in setting the pre-1979 points. Nice goody, not absolutely necessary. Greg's contact information is:
71-11-1-234-860 The classic BMW tire pump that fit on the frame. You will find this strictly a nostalgia item, it is pretty much a super hassle to use...can take an hour to do anything with it. Preferable is the spark plug adapter type of pump, or the $12 WalMart or other 12 volt compressors.
51-25-1-238-375 Cable lock. Fits in the frame tube under the tank. Plenty of other choices on the market.
71-11-1-103-086 Screwdriver.
Phillips and standard. This is NOT a Pozidriv nor a Reed and Prince
tip. The Reed and Prince, AKA Frearson, has a 75° angle,
and thus 1 screwdriver generally can be used with all types of
matching screw sizes. It does NOT cam-out (slip) like the
Phillips does.
***NOTE!!!....BMW's
red plastic-handled screwdriver that is in the BMW on-bike tool
kit, the one with the reversible insert, probably Heyco Germany brand,
IS USUALLY
NOT THE CORRECT TOOL for the carburetor tops!!!....this
tool is, instead, a common Phillips!!
There are better choices than the BMW red-handled Heyco screwdriver, and stronger, but not always easy to find a screwdriver that is small, and has both Phillips and slot ends, and fits your tools bag for the on-bike kit. Some folks purchase one of the SnapOn types, with assorted hardened magnetic tips that fit inside the handle. If you have the room and budget, the Snap-On is a QUALITY tool, the hardened versions NEVER wear out the tips. Be sure you have the proper size tips...many come only with a relatively narrow single blade size tip. The proper Phillips size is #2. HINT: BMW carb top "Phillips" screws may not really be Phillips screws, they MAY just look that way. They could be Phillips, OR could be 'Pozi' type. The old aircraft tip called Reed & Prince (also known as a Frearson) works nicely on the Posi screws....as, of course, does the real Posi. The Posi tip is EXCELLENT for REMOVING the Phillips type, if the Phillips is very tight. Install a Phillips type with a Phillips screwdriver. If the screws are frozen, you can try a variety of ideas, see my carb articles. This includes valve grinding compound for a better grip, a metal block underneath and an Impakt Driver, etc. Tips for interchangeable-tip type tools are available from a variety of sources, including Snap-On. YES, the Pozi IS available. The only critical 'Phillips' type screw place on our Airheads is the screws used on the top of the Bing CV carburetors....although some would argue that point regarding the screw that holds the pod umbilical cord to the pod. Some have installed Allen head screws at the carb tops. They are OK, but don't overtighten, as many of these have a very small allen and can round-out more easily. I DISLIKE Allen's there. Some carbs had common single slot screws. BMW and Bing may be shipping EITHER Pozi or Phillips screws......be sure that your 'screwdriver' fits them, and do obtain a Pozi #2 or Reed and Prince screwdriver #2 or tip. Remove the screws one at a time, coat the threads...and taper...with antiseize....and replace the screws.....you will appreciate that hint, later on.
The Bing
carburetor top screws may be Pozi, or may be Phillips (both Bing
and BMW seem to be shipping both types).
The Pozi screws
generally have some radiating lines to indicate they are not
Phillips type.
Little known fact: Phillips
screws and screwdrivers were DESIGNED to not allow over-torquing;
that is, they are designed so the screwdriver will SLIP (called
Camming-out) after a
certain amount of torque is applied. This is pretty crude!
It is done by the angles on the tip and tines sides...hard to
see.
Here are photos of the Pozi-Driv screw, and the screwdriver tip.
Note the differences from a Phillips!
71-11-1-237-854 PIN (also called a drift). You need one of these for the holes in your tubular wrenches, and miscl. uses. Some folks have sharpened one end to a point, other end to a sharp chisel-scraper, having three tools in one. I don't, as I like to use the drift as a drift. You can use a fat screwdriver blade instead of this.
71-11-1-237-856 two-ended socket (tubular) wrench, also see 71-11-9-090-105
71-11-1-237-859 point contacts file. Are better choices. Filing points is an emergency fix, and I do NOT recommend it except for that use.
Alternator rotor removal tool: See item 13 below. Factory removal tool is #__________________________
71-11-1-237-860 tire gauge, pencil type. Are better choices.
71-1-237-863 test lamp. You can get a simple test lamp with alligator clip on the long lead and a sharp point on the tool with lamp inside, from any autoparts store for two bucks. Don't get the type that contains a battery, you will find little use for that. CARRY this tool on the bike. You don't need a multimeter, unless you REALLY want one...if you do, get a Radio Shack one that folds up and is small; such as the 22-812. It does not have high ampere ranges, but does everything else.
71-11-1-230-000 This thin round rod was used on the OLD /5 style steering head clamp arrangement, to hold the collar. You don't need this and COULD substitute an allen wrench already in the kit. That /5 setup can be replaced by the /6 type parts, and the steering head is then easier to adjust, and that modification IS recommended by me.
71-11-1-237-872 15 mm x 17 mm fork ring wrench
71-11-1-237-864 through 869 These are a ratchet handle drive and sockets and extension, and there is NO great reason to purchase them or carry them in your bike tool kit. You probably have these tools from other manufacturer's anyway. The sockets were, in mm sizes: 13, 12, 10, 6. I don't see ANY REAL REASON to own the BMW versions.
71-11-1-237-841 7 mm x 8 mm open end wrench
71-11-1-237-842 10 mm x 11 mm open end wrench
71-11-1-237-843 12 mm x 13 mm open
end wrench
07-11-9-999-119 12 mm x 14 mm open end wrench
NOTE that you need TWO wrenches, at the same time, to set the valve clearances.
71-11-1-237-844 14 mm x 17 mm wrench. GET TWO, carry both.
71-11-1-237-845 17 mm x 19 mm wrench. GET TWO, carry both.
71-11-1-237-846 24 mm wrench
71-11-1-237-847 10 x 12 box end wrench, which replaces 71-11-1-230-579
71-11-1-237-848 19 x 22 box end wrench. You MIGHT want two.
Part II: Tools you WILL want, that are NOT necessarily in your on-bike toolkit:
1. 8 mm SMALL wrench, combination type
(that means a 8 mm box end on one end...preferably a 12 point,
but harder to find?), and a 8 mm open end on the other
end. You want to BEND this wrench with an
oxyacetylene torch. Use for the diode board
nuts. I carry this one.
BUT, see item 2, below....
2. SpinTite (or equivalent brand) wrench, 8
mm hex size. This is a tubular wrench, female 'socket' on
end of the barrel, with a wood or plastic handle. You might
be able to substitute SOME types of 8 mm sockets, or modify
such. For the same use as #1
right above.
I modify the working end, so is NO internal taper that would
prevent its use on a very thin nut. I also grind the
outside diameter down a bit, but not so much as to lose much
strength. This tool is useful not only for
the very
hard to remove, otherwise, diode board outer (forward)
nuts, but in removing other nuts. This type of tool is
quite useful for the alternator brush holder, for
instance. A T-handle type is fine.
3. 27 mm or 1-1/16" socket, probably
in 1/2" square drive. This needs to be modified.
Home tool. This is for the swing arm nuts and you MUST
modify the socket OD, and square the end (no internal
taper). 12 point is FAR better. Here is more detailed
information:
a. Use a 12 point type, as its outer
walls are far stronger after you modify it.
b. Grind, sand, etc., the open 12 point
end so that there is NO internal taper at the very end...in other
words, square that end off. BE SURE that it is fairly
square to the main body too....you don't want it fitting poorly
onto the thin nut. Do this step first.
c. Use a lathe, or grinding wheel, etc.,
and make the O.D. for a distance of 11/16" from the 12 point
end, to 1.350". This is not critical, but must be
small enough to allow the socket to fit into your airhead swing
arm frame cavity...past the TWO diameters
in there. Thus,
you end up with a modified socket, 12 point, with a 90 degree
square working end, no internal taper, a 1.350" outside
diameter, and that particular outside diameter is about
11/16" wide. The 1.350" value seems to be OK for
a wide
variety of slight differences on our Airheads.
4. 88-88-6-002-560 or equivalent BMW tool
to allow a torque wrench to properly fit the driveshaft bolts at
the transmission output flange. Home
tool. This tool consists of a 3/8" square
drive female part with a slit in the side, and pressed and brazed
into
that slit is a 12 point 10 mm off-set box end wrench....said
wrench was simply a double ended wrench of some sort, cut to be
shorter, one end discarded. NOTE:
When using this tool, use it straight-out with the torque wrench,
NOT at any angle, or if an
angle, only slight. The
center-to-center distance of the working ends of this tool,
compared mathematically to the distance between the working
center of the torque wrench square drive and the center of
pressure of the torque wrench handle, will determine
the setting
BELOW the official torque amount (29 footpounds) that you must
set the wrench. In ALL cases, the torque wrench will
be set to LESS than 29 ftlbs!
...if the wrench is used straight out, or, up to under 90°.
NOTE: Some folks use a 10 mm 12 point combination wrench with their 3/8" drive torque wrench inserted into the 12 mm end. If you use it at 90°, there are no torque extensions calculations needed.
I prefer the tool below, or its home-made equivalent.
5. 6 mm male allen wrench of the square drive type, used for adjusting the swing arm, in conjunction with item #3 and your torque wrench. Home tools.
***NOTE: I suggest you actually purchase this male allen wrench in 3/8 drive and ALSO get one in 8 mm (used at the lower triple clamp).
6. Aftermarket Exhaust Finned Nuts tool,
cast aluminum material. Home tool. There
is a nice version made by Guy Hendersen
http://www.hendersenprecision.com
7. Torque wrenches.
For your first one, simply get a GOOD QUALITY tubular
'clicker'. Bottom reading of zero or maybe 5 or 8
foot-pounds is OK, top reading of 75 to 100 foot-pounds is
OK. I recommend EITHER a half inch drive, and obtain
a 1/2 to 3/8 inch square drive adapter; or, a 3/8 drive
torque wrench, with a 3/8 to 1/2
adapter. You will also want a 6 inch or so extension
(male-female) in the same drive, 3/8 or 1/2; this allows you to
space the torque wrench outward if you need
to....unless you
already have deep-well sockets. If you already have
an old BEAM type torque wrench, that is fine but
if not a good DIAL-beam type, you
should NOT use it for critical
things like head nuts; ... SO...if you have a Pro-type beam
type
with a DIAL, that is great. You can use just about any
type of torque wrench for such as the swing arm locking
nuts. NOTE that some tubular clicker wrenches are hard to
read, so is best to get one with a WINDOW readout...perhaps TWO
windows,
one in ftlbs, one in Nm. BEWARE: SOME have
awful faint clicks at low settings. Do
NOT trust tubular clicker wrenches at the lower end of the
adjustment range....that means under about 8% of the maximum
setting.
I DISlike the ones with chromed &
engraved or stamped tubes.... you do NOT want to make a
mistake in reading one! STORE your torque wrench at a
LOW setting, but not below
on-scale. Three articles are on this website on
torque wrenches
and torque settings,,,,,#71A, 71B, 71C.
Some folks use a torque wrench at places I use hand-feel, and you may need a
more sensitive wrench, such as a inch-pound wrench. I set pan bolts
by hand, as one example, but if someone was to do the final
tightening with a
torque wrench, they should not try to using a 8-75 footpound torque wrench, but,
instead, use
one that was clearly in its range for 72 INCH-pounds, for example. I do ATU
nuts (pre 1979) by hand feel, but someone may want to use a
torque wrench.
Thus, whilst you really must have a 75 or 100, or even 120 foot pound maximum
torque wrench, whether or not you own a small lower range wrench is up to you.
8. Tool to hold crankshaft from moving
forward. If you remove your flywheel for any
reason, be sure to set the engine to OT (top dead center, Oberer
Totpunkt) first, and
be
sure that OT is STILL in the timing window when replacing the
flywheel.
It is a MUST
to mechanically block the crankshaft
from moving forward before removing a flywheel. This
can be done in several ways, I recommend you do NOT use a
towel in the timing chest! One of the neatest methods is likely to
be to just make a
tool out of a piece of 6 mm Allen wrench material, and
weld a 1" (or so) steel disc or 'fender washer', maybe
1/16" thick, onto one end, making the length such that its
Allen end fits into the alternator bolt, and the disc end presses
against the outer timing
chest cover. Usually 3/4 inch
overall. The length should be such that some light
pressure can applied by the cover, the cover being screwed back
onto the engine LIGHTLY, but can't quite fully be brought back to the
engine surface. For your home tools,
or, since so
small, carry it in the tool tray on the bike, but you are UNlikely to ever need
it while touring. Weld it squarely to the straight piece of
6 mm Allen wrench. The last time I
made one of these, I made it to fit my 83-84 bikes, and the
OVERALL length was 3/4". There is a cautionary
article on this website, dealing
just with that crankshaft
problem, with additional details in case you accidentally (?)
goof-up. go to: article #81, here is a direct
clickable link: flywheelremovalwarning.htm
Don't want to make that tool? Here is
another type: Just use a 8 mm bolt, screw it into the rotor, and leave
enough of the bolt sticking out of the rotor, so that the front cover will bear
on it.
9. A small digital volt-ohm-diode test
meter. The one Radio Shack sells, that folds up, has its
own leads, is very neat and fits the tool tray. See
item #1 on the HINTS page of this website. (that
is a hyperlink to the HINTS page). You can get some tiny
alligator
clips that push onto the leads, and they will fit in the case too. You
don't REALLY need one on your bike in the tool tray.
If you do NOT have a meter in your tool tray on the bike, DO get a pointy tip test lamp but any old lamp with
leads will do in a pinch. I
prefer the real store-bought type. The test lamp will do almost all
you really might need to do, for electrical work, on the road, with some
caveats.
For lots more information, please see the multimeters article:
multimeters.htm
10. You won't find a lot of need for this
one, but when you need it, and it is a tool to have at home, you
will cuss without it. This is a tool called an impact
driver. The brand I have is named IMPAKDRIVER, made by the
H.K. Porter company. This neat
gadget is hit with a hammer,
while you hold rotational CW
or CCW pressure on the tool. The hammer blow pushes the
tool tip (lots of tips available) into the screw or whatever, and
the internal CAM of the tool causes rotation. This tool was
a MUST
with old Japanese bikes, and with a few assorted bits, you will
find it valuable. Use this one carefully on such as
carburetor top screws (don't break the carburetor! support the
area!), and other such places. Good for small nuts, not
just screws. I
get this tool out BEFORE I round out a
screw head.
11. T-handled allen wrenches, with fairly
long allen shanks. Get a small assortment of these, you
won't need any larger than 6 mm. Do NOT get the cheap
plastic handled ones, get the METAL handled types. Some are
made cheap. BUY QUALITY.
You will find these very
valuable. It is up to you if the tips are the ball type allen or regular allen. The ball type seem more
versatile but I am not pleased with many for strength/toughness. These are usually tools for your home
shop. SOME folks carry one
of these, and a shortened L allen wrench, on
long tours, when you want to change the oil filter. You can
drill the fairing for one of these screws, if it is hard to get to.
T-handled tools are also made in socket ends.
12. Jumper wires. Keep
these two items in your bike tool tray. You need
two types. The first type is used to bypass the voltage
regulator. About 4 or 5 inches of insulated stranded wire,
18 ga is OK, nothing critical here. At EACH end put a
MALE
standard 1/4" spade connector. The second jumper wire
is a test lead jumper. Make this of a standard medium size
alligator clip at each end (rubber boot insulator covered).
Maybe 3 feet long.
13. There is a tool used for removing
the rotor of the alternator. ALWAYS
carry this tool. Either get the official BMW
tool, or make one. Beware!!!
Do NOT...NOT!!....use any homemade tool unless
it is of TOUGH, HARDENED
METAL.... A cheap homemade version how-to is posted,
dated 05/01, at the Technical Tips section at: http://www.airheads.org
The BMW supplied rotor removal tool is: 88-88-6-123-600
14. You can substitute certain sizes of
tools:
13mm TRY 1/2 inch...or modify an old 1/2" tool
8 mm, use 5/16 inch.
15. A credit card and a phone card and maybe a cell phone. NOTE!.....any old cell-phone, whether you have a cell-phone paid service OR NOT, can be used to dial 911 for emergencies. Emergencies are not that you need gasoline or have a flat tire. Used cell phones for such uses are often available free.
16. Spark plug shorting tools. Information AND PHOTO on those, utilized when synchronizing carburetors, will be found in the synchcarbs.htm article (that is a hyperlink).
17. It sometimes comes about
that you might have a reason to remove and replace a pin contact
in one of BMW's connectors. BMW does have a tool for
this: 88-88-6-611-132. Actually -131 and -133 are
also pin removal tools. These tools are PRICEY.
If you are careful, you can use something like a very very thin
Jeweler's screwdriver to, from the wire end, release the wee tab
that sticks out and locks the pins into position.
FYI, the -132 tool, the only one I have specifications for, has a
3.75 mm plunger diameter and a 3.9 mm ID barrel...that is 3.9 mm
x 4.4 mm OD.
18. Making a CHEAP and
useful hydraulic bottle jack modification: see article
#63 (yes, that is a hyperlink)
19. Go to one or more local heating contractors,
until you find a cooperative one ("sure, you can have an old
squirrel cage motor, for free"). Heating/cooling
contractors are always removing old home heaters and replacing
them. MOST of these heaters contain a perfectly good motor,
that has shafts running out both ends, and the shafts have
mounted to them squirrel-cage type rotary blades.
There is a surrounding metal shrouding that you want too...it is
all one assembly, and mostly that assembly is inside the old
heater case, which you may have to remove. Most of
these motors are heavy duty capacitor-start types, with plug tap
selection for speeds. Adapt a power cord and maybe
make up some sort of simple wood piece to keep your new FAN from
rolling about on your garage floor and maybe aiming the fan
slightly upward....and....you have a dual output high volume
fan. Put some chicken wire over the intake ends of
the fan, held by sheet metal screws, to prevent things in your
shop, like rags, or your dog/cat, from flying into the
fans. The lowest speed setting is usually the correct
one. This fan is VERY useful during synchronizing
carburetors....and....for cooling your bike off rapidly for other
work.
20. Tools...various types,
including cylinder stud threads repairs and ring compressors, etc...:
Ed Korn
previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did
machine work, designed and made LOTS of tools
(and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars,
through the /2 era, ...AND until the Airhead production
stopped in 1995. Some were VERY cleverly designed, and
he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff.
Doing a run-through of the
website is informative to many folks. Ed sold the business
to Dan Neiner, who runs it as Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805
Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216 (913) 871-6740. Dan@cycleworks.net
((NOT .com!!)). The url
is: www.cycleworks.net
See
other areas of my website about Ed. Also see #22 below.
Dan Neiner will sell.....or loan-out.... his version of the cylinder stud
hole thread repair TOOL and Helicoil items for $45.
I suggest you review what is on that website. I am not sure
if photos are on the present website of the tools.
Jeff Trapp, the Airheads Club Airmarshal for Wisconisin; (jefftrapp@charter.net)
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com:80/
has a number of interesting tools
for Airheads. Take a look at that website.
There is further information in my REFERENCES
article on Jeff....he also does repairs, inspections, instruction on repairs.
Jeff has his own tools, some are inspired by Ed Korn's tools.
Note: Jeff will sell his repair tooling, but he also has available a complete "loaner"
kit...everything, jigs, BMW longer helicoil, drill, tap,
etc.....for repairing bad cylinder stud hole threads.
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Cyl-Stud-Jig.html ...see his site,
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com
***Note: These particular thread repair tools (Ed
Korn's AND Jeff's) were probably inspired
by the one's made by John Chay....and Oak, see the just below
***NOTE:
High Precision Devices (HPD) of Boulder, Colorado, has its own
version of the thread repair tool.
Very nice it is too, and
uses proprietary inserts.
www.hpd-online.com/
Click at top of page Other Products, for the drop-down list for
this tool
(303) 447-2558
I have made tooling to repair bad threads at the cases, where the 4 cylinder
studs fasten. You can make your own if you have the machinery. Use a
lathe to cut off and machine an old bad cylinder base; then get some long
commercial and hardened drill guides, drill and ream the base holes as required.
Install at exactly 90 degrees. You can have these drill guides as two each
and only two base holes machined, and the guides can be a smooth finger-press
fit. Stud centers are 93 mm x 72 mm, and if you want to have
the spigots, note that there are early sizes of 97 mm, and later sizes of 99 mm.
Another source, limited, but has a few tools you
may be interested in....and he has a kit to fix seat hinge
problems, is:
http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm
***NOTE: The background of the cylinder stud thread
repair tools goes back to around the year 2000. Oak
(Orlando Okleshen, THE airhead GURU in the USA) and Oak's
precision-machinist friend, made a very precise tooling/jig for
this job. This tooling became the basis for the
ones made by EdKorn, and Jeff Trapp.
Yours truly, Snowbum, had his own version, back in the seventies,
made from a bad cylinder and hardened drill guides.
Piston ring compressors: One of the ways of installing pistons is to insert them into the cylinders so only the hole for the piston pin is showing, then install the pin and its locks. Another method is to leave the piston on the rod when a cylinder is R/R. You need strong fingernails to compress the rings, and must do so carefully in any event...you do not want to break the fragile rings or damage a piston. Many prefer a ring compressor. If you are likely to almost never need a ring compressor more than once, and are a cheapskate (perfectly OK in my book), then you can make one from a strip you cut from a metal coffee can; or, use a large band clamp, etc. If you want a real ring compressing tool, I highly suggest you get one that allows it to be used even when the cylinder is partly onto the studs. That means a compressor with detachable bands. A nice tool is made by KD Tools, their model 850, a set of bands and handle with excellent adjustability. About $50-$60 when discounted...do an internet search.
21. Tool for the conrod bolts: This is a 10 mm triple-fluted tool, which looks something like a Torx. One description of this tool, the one NAPA uses, is "10 mm, 12 point, fluted wrench". You will use this tool with a 13 mm or 1/2" socket. The NAPA part number for the tool is #2305.
22. On the later wheels, the outer race must be removed mechanically, and the hubs are NOT heated for this. ONE exception is the 1978 REAR DRUM snowflake wheel. You can contact cycleworks, see #20, above, for a clever tool for removing the 1979+ wheel bearing outer races (works also for swing arm bearing outer races); or, have any mechanic with the correct puller...even a dealership!...do it for you. For those with larger wallets, the best tool is still the Kukko puller, which works lovely in such blind holes, where the inner edge of the outer race is not easily grippable...usually due to it having the same diameter as the surrounding supporting metal. The Kukko needed is #21/5, used with the #22/2 'bridge'. If you get the 21/6 puller, same bridge, you can do the steering head bearings in the same manner.
23. Various types of rubber tipped tools are available for greasing the swing arm, via greasing into the Allen wrench hex recess of the adjustor. See chainsaw dealers for a chain saw nose wheel greasing tool. Napa sells several types of tools. There is a rubber tipped air blow gun nozzle #90-583. They have also a replacement tip 715-1201 which is for the 715-1217. They carry a couple other types of tip tools, one of which can use the 715-1217. These are actually greasing tool items.
24. There is a factory tool to help line up the clutch disc. You don't have to have one, eyeball is good enough. CycleWorks probably has one available. If you want to make this tool:
The tool, overall, is roughly 133 mm long. Starting at the taper tip: The non-tapered portion of the tip is 8.2 mm diameter and 5 mm long. The taper is a simple rounding, or, just do a 90° tip....not sharp though. So, with taper, the tip is a tad longer than 5mm...maybe 8 or 10 or whatever. Back of the tip is the second section: 29 mm long by 20.7 mm in diameter. The 'handle' portion is 95 mm long and 22 mm in diameter.
Here
is a photo of some of the clutch/flywheel removal tools, AND, of
that clutch disc alignment tool:
25. MISCL. tools:
If you THIN the end of the 36 or 41 mm portion, you can fit that
dogbone
wrench under the handlebars on many Airheads, without having to
remove
the handlebars or even loosen them....to get to the large Acorn
Nut that
locks the steering adjustment on earlier models.
71-11-1-237-857 is the # for the 36 x 27 mm size. Old
number was 71-11-1-230-684.
See well above in this article for
information on modifying this dogbone wrench!
The 41 mm version of the dogbone wrench is
#
71-11-2-303-517
This same squared-off end is done to 27 mm or 1-1/16" sockets,
for the swing arm locknut.
You can use a short socket, as above photo, for the front fork
tubes' caps, and with the wood
piece as shown, the cap can be hand-pressured so the threads are
not injured when removing
OR replacing the top cap.
26. I am sometimes asked about how to deal with the /7
type fork lowers, with the 13 mm nut with the allen wrench hex in the middle.
If you try to loosen the nut, then the allen rotates...blah blah. I
have two solutions. One is to modify a deep socket for a slot along the
side. The other is to purchase an offset socket wrench. McMaster-Carr has
one, item 7247A52.
27. Type of broken screw/bolt extractor that I use. Don't know the
name of this type, but it does not break like a real EZY-OUT brand long removing
tool does. SNAP-ON has SIMILAR extractors. Ask me about proper usage of these types of tools, and
when to use a Dremel, or when to use an Electric Discharge Machining (EDM).
I have used EZY-OUTS, and many others, successfully. You can too, if you
are LUCKY and CARFULL.
28. 11-42-1-335-394 special 23 mm bolt
for filling the thermostat/cooler.
****Do NOT use if longer than 23 mm!!! MUST have a full
radius nose!
29. Another source for tools: http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm
Limited number of items, but includes a seat hinge fix; some
specialty wrenches and sockets, etc.....I do SUGGEST you look;
and
his prices are quite reasonable.
NOTE: Sometimes very special tools are used for certain jobs. Generally speaking, if there is an article very specific to that tool, the tool is in that article....such as bore hones...see the engine internals and other articles. Sometimes you can borrow a tool that you need perhaps once or twice in a lifetime. There are very special tools required to do certain jobs, such as shimming transmissions and rear drives, and maybe a dozen total specialty jobs in all that require special tools.
Revisions:
updated all to 03/01/2006, minor clarifications...and add #22
entirely.
04/22/2006: add #23.
04/23/2006: add emphasis note on screwdrivers for the Bing
tops
04/24/2006: modify that note
08/15/2006: Edit #20
09/24/2006: minor clarifications
04/17/2007: add #24
05/08/2007: Add photo to #24 and add #25 (3 photos)
05/11/2007: Add hyperlink in #8, clarify some minor details
here and there.
08/14/2007: Joe's Tools hyperlink/url obtained, item 20
01/19/2008: Update 20, 22
10/08/2008: edit entire article for clarity, add #26, etc. NO
errors were in the article, just clarifications needed.
12/30/2008: Add information about Jeff Trapp
04/19/2009: Add 27
05/01/2009: Add pdf drawing to item 24
05/21/2009: Clarify number and use for the 41 x 27 mm dogbone
03/09/2010: add information on Jeff Trapp's loaning of
cylinder stud threads fix kit.
03/12/2010: add information on Dan Neiner's offer to loan
the cylinder stud tool
03/13/2010: Update item 20 in depth; move one item to new
#29
04/25/2010: Add photos of Posi-Drive screwdriver tip and
screw
07/03/2010: 41 mm dogbone wrench part number. Add 36
mm socket photo. Clarify details on socket and dogbone
wrenches.
02/27/2011: fix HPD url
03/17/2011: add note to #28, and some minor updates
elsewhere's.
09/03/2011: add photo of the impact driver, which was not
hyperlinked originally either
© Copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer