Maintenance Schedule
© copyright, 2012, R.
Fleischer
Originally was
for 1983/1984 R100RT, but
now includes items useful for other models, by making the list somewhat 'broadly
general'
maintsched.htm-55
This was the maintenance schedule I personally followed for a very long time.
This schedule does NOT include the preparations that I do for Winter storage.
Some Winters I stored the bike, some I did not.
I do the Winter
pre-storage often enough, that I 'get to' all the electrical plugs and connections at least every 3
years.
Where I felt items needed some explanation, I added that parenthetically [ ]. For my own bikes,
I have printed this in a type of FORM, with the left column being "interval" and the middle column being
"work necessary"
and the right column being "mileage/date done at, + notes".
In its original format I had typed it in 10pt size, and it just fit on an 8-1/2 x 14 inch standard paper. I
print the form and then I pencil-in the date/mileage at time of each item being
completed.
I use the form until no area for penciling-in is
left. When the form is filled up, I reprint it, making form
changes as required. My bikes are too important to me to trust maintenance
scheduling to
a computer crash...or my memory. Having lots more than one
bike makes it absolutely necessary. When I had my big collection of
antique bikes (and a number of Airheads too) I had a chart that was hung on each
bike, with dates, work done, work to be done, blah blah. Typically
not what most who own 1 to 3 or 4 bikes need.
I have another list (8-1/2 x 11) that shows the specifications for the important items, everything from tire pressures to
timing, valve settings, etc. In this manner, almost all the information usually
needed for most anything is available quickly; right in the 'folder' I keep that
bike's information in.
Elsewhere's I have step-by-step typed
procedures for certain jobs: wheel bearing preload checks, clutch spline service,
steering head bearing cleaning and
re-greasing, etc. Having these allows me, without much special
thought needed, enables me to just to grab the necessary tools and/or parts, and do the job.
Servicing (or, even making a modification, etc.), that is NOT on
this (below) regular printed out schedule list, can be on another sheet of paper on which I add the date and mileage
and what was done.
Typically I use the back side of the below schedule...and
file those to permanent records, when I make a fresh copy. A simple lamp change would be on that sheet, as well as
work not on the
below sheet, both simple and major work. These
become permanent records, that I may need to refer to some day.
Pre-winter service: another FORM is
used. My pre-Winter service form is EXTENSIVE, and covers all sorts of
cosmetic work as well as servicing.
As required minor adjustments and
checks:
Inspect all lamps, except in instrument pod, for sagging filaments and operation.
Check battery in the meter carried in the tool kit.
Replace any on-bike parts that I've passed out at rallies, etc.
Pre-ride inspection...which always includes oil levels
and tire pressures.
Pre-long-tour inspection [extensive]
Have the clothing, cooking, ETC. items I need for this trip? [check list]
Cleaning, washing, waxing, detailing, etc.
5K miles approx:
Engine oil change [8K approx. on LONG trips]
[NOTE: Genuine BMW oil filters are
likely OK for 9-12000 miles, depending on
how long it takes to get that mileage, and under what conditions, and engine
condition.
Oil filter changes ALWAYS include new O-rings, sometimes the steel shim, always
4 new banjo nut washers]
Nuts and bolts check, everyplace.
Battery water level if using flooded style battery
Valve clearances [includes checking end float]
[IF this is a sidecar rig, remove the sidecar wheel and service the bearings].
5K to 10K:
On a points-equipped bike, always check them for gap, condition and check
ignition timing, maximum advance and advance range.
On points bikes, also
inspect alternator brushes and connections since you are in the area.
Synchronize carburetors
Front tire change:
ALWAYS: new tube, check preload, clean and grease bearings,
new seals. Balance the wheel/tire.
Check brake linings or pads
Rear tire change:
ALWAYS: new tube, check preload, clean and grease bearings,
new seals. Balance the wheel/tire.
Grease wheel cup splines.
Check brake linings or pads
10K:
Check engine timing @ proper idle point on electronic ignition
(NON-points) bikes....also check
max advance, & check advance range. If you remove front
cover, inspect brushes, etc.
Clean air cleaner (also see 20k)
15K:
Adjust swing arm and grease
[Monolever and Paralever bikes should have the output shaft and splines, and any
U-joints checked]
Lube trans splines [DON'T exceed 18K](see 3 year service)
Visually check alternator brushes (snail spring not bottoming?), wiring, diode board
Go over electrical connections throughout.
Yearly:
Change brake fluid, front...via full bleeding until clear.
Change brake fluid, rear...via full bleeding until clear (bleeder vertical).
Clean and drain gas tank, let dry out.
Clean fuel strainers in tank and service petcocks if getting stiff.
Be sure Dairectory and MOA directory are up to date and on bike.
Service exhaust port finned nuts and internal rings with anti-seize, cleaning
well first. (see bottom of this page)
20K:
Tighten 4 carburetor enrichener screws on each carburetor
Lube throttle twist assembly
REMOVE and lube shift linkage ball ends
REPLACE spark plugs [15K-25K]
REPLACE air filter upon condition [usually 30K max,
sometimes can go further]
TEST spark plug wires, coils, caps
CHECK universal joint bolts [no loosen first] 29 ftlbs
Change fork oil [2 years max]
Change transmission oil
Change driveshaft oil
Change rear drive oil
Replace aftermarket paper type fuel filters.
Service the leading link if this is installed
30K:
REMOVE and lube the following:
At rear/transmission: clutch lever bush/bearing; throwout
bearing parts
Clutch lever assembly at bars
Enrichener control assembly at bars
Brake lever at bars
Rear brake foot lever assembly/bolt/bush
SERVICE (clean, lube, adjust) steering head bearings.
If bike has hydraulic steering damper, check its functions, and
clean and lubricate the ball ends and rack.
REPLACE carburetor floats if stock original type of floats. Always replace
float needles at same time.
3 years:
REPLACE battery if WestCo/Panasonic, other AGM types (4 years for flooded
types). (Odysseys can go 4-7 years)
REMOVE any ignition module under the gas tank,
clean, use fresh silicone Heat Sink Grease, Dow Corning
type DC340 (2 years if cheaper type of greases)
Service fuel taps internally if getting stiff [silicon
grease LIGHTLY after cleaning].
REMOVE rear swing arm backwards far enough to remove and service the swing arm
bearings. Arrange to do this
job at same time the input splines are cleaned and lubricated.
15-20 years:
Replace rubber brake hoses & grommets ..depends on where stored, could be
oftener, and could be twice the time too. TEST these hoses regularly by FEEL, under hard
lever pressure.
60K:
REPLACE carburetor diaphragms
REPLACE carburetor slide needles/needle jets [aluminum types must be replaced at
30K]
CLEAN carburetors, replace O-rings (not throttle shaft, unless leaking).
Once @60K:
Remove, during a regular oil change: pan,
oilscreen, pickup. Clean, replace
gaskets. Will not be needed again
until engine overhaul. Some models require
inspection for cracks on the pickup and boss.
80K...or??:
REPLACE alternator brushes BEFORE snail springs start bottoming
on the brush holder.
REPLACE timing chain and guide, oil relief spring, latest version tensioner, ETC.
Valve job, including valve guides, top end decoking,
possibly rings, etc.
Overhaul starter motor
Overhaul transmission [depends on condition...could be 150K]
Overhaul front forks...mostly cleaning and new
bumpers, etc. This can be needed sooner, depending on
age and type of usage.
As required:
Rear wheel spline cup and rear drive spline repairs.
Replace
cables
notes:
(1) The speedometer inner cable is NOT removable for greasing, and you cannot force grease in at the bottom
end.
(2) The clutch lever pivot is nylon, do not try to lubricate. DO lubricate the barrel ends on ALL cables!!
(3) Whenever the tank or headlight is removed, be sure
to take the time to clean all contacts, coat with contact
preservative. Do this at least every few years.
Contact cleaner containing a
silicone lubricant is GOOD, but the BEST is Caig Laboratories
DeOxit.
(4) The exhaust system is to be installed with antiseize WHEREVER things fit together. This means the header pipe joining areas,
muffler joining areas,
as well as the IMPORTANT exhaust
port parts & FINNED NUTS at the cylinder head. The split exhaust ring goes to the head, flat side faces
head;
the solid collar fits into the finned nut, and the flat
end faces the nut surface. THEREFORE, the 2 slanted, tapered, surfaces face each other!
The G/S, GS, ST models exhaust system are typically easier to remove and service
by pulling them totally off the bike as almost an assembly.
Exhaust port finned nuts: Nuts should be unscrewed and cleaned and gooped with
antiseize
every year or two.
If you do lots of short trips, do them for sure yearly.
It
is the number of heat/cooling cycles that determines how
often....but also time, if you ride very little. NEVER EVER continue unscrewing the nut if it suddenly starts to seize.
Cut it off, without
damaging the threads....nuts are cheap, repairs to head threads expensive.
Multiple soakings of some sort of oily solvent, reapplied daily for a few days, may help to loosen the
carbon or galling.
Heating, and allowing the thin lubricant to be sucked into
the threads during cooling, may help.
Gooped (anti-seize compound) exhaust port finned nuts
(and anti-seized rings) should be first
screwed on using your hand...and
THEN the CORRECT FINNED wrench. You WILL be VERY sorry
if you do not do that maintenance regularly. They are to be
put on fairly tight.
It can take a good grunt to loosen
one. I do NOT tighten them as tight as
specifications. NEVER EVER oil the threads for
assembly...oil will coke up and cause the nuts to seize.
If
you have two internal rings, the concave and convex face each
other, split to head, as noted above. Do NOT overtighten the exhaust nuts. I do NOT tighten them as
tight as BMW says.
Revisions:
01/04/2005: Fully updated with all prior revisions
10/29/2010: slight updates on NOTES section.
04/19/2012: MINOR CLEANUP
© copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer