Hardware, etc.,
for BMW Airhead Motorcycles
(and a brief discussion of
'locking' methods for hardware)
Information on Pozi and Phillips screws
is also here.
Includes information on some items and references
not found in my references page (78B)
© Copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer
hardware.htm-68A
This article lists all sorts of hardware items for
BMW Airhead motorcycles AND LIKELY
HAS ERRORS IN IT. It was not possible to physically look at
every part listed here.
Parts numbers and descriptions were
taken
from a Snabb Katalog, and checked against a 1995 printed Parts List, and some
were checked against my own stock of parts. A small
amount of input was
from others.
BMW descriptions in its
literature are occasionally wrong. In ILLUSTRATIONS, BMW may
OFTEN show a piece of
hardware...or other item, that is NOT the actual
part. An example: an actual Allen
bolt is shown in the illustration as a screw
or hex head.
BMW
has sometimes kept a part number and then made changes to the part.
In most instances this is of no major concern, and
in many instances the updated
part is better for some reason or other. Sometimes there are
problems. BMW
has
changed
some of its nut and bolt wrench sizes, and maybe other such hardware parts changes that I do
not know about.
In one particular instance, which I believe is NOT the only actual instance, the same part number was used
for a nut that originally needed a 19 mm wrench, and the newer shipped parts are
for 18 mm wrench, a size
of wrench that is NOT a standard for BMW Airhead
motorcycles, but for other BMW bikes. Thus, unless
you want to carry the non-standard wrench in
your bike's tool tray, you should be aware of this. In at least
one
instance, the dealer had BOTH sizes available in the same box. I do NOT know
the extent of this potential
problem. I have seen it in 16 mm heads too.
Keep in
mind that the main purpose of this article is to enable you
to go to a dealer and
(hopefully!) see the various parts,
and then decide what you want.
Bolt
LENGTH measurements are from under the head to the end of the threads. BMW
bolts for exterior use
used to be, generally, cadmium plated to prevent rust. In
some instances this plating provides a bit of anti-seize protection.
BMW
uses, generally, bolts rated at 8.8 strength, but at certain places will use
stronger, and even 12.9.
Strength rating is always marked on the bolt...and on
some smaller screws too.
BMW has started to drop cadmium plating,
due to environmental regulations. Many of its steel bolts and nuts
may
well now RUST! Some may now have zinc coatings.
NOTE: Some BMW bolts have a
non-standard HEAD THICKNESS. An example of this will be seen at the
left lower rear
shock mount.
NOTE: the word 'screw' and the word
'bolt' are sometimes used interchangeably. Typically screw means
smaller
diameter, but there is no specification for just what constitutes
smaller. Also, generally speaking,
screw is used for such having
Phillips heads or single slot heads.
Part numbers on a
part MAY not be BMW numbers (example, on electrics, often are
BOSCH numbers
or Wherle numbers); and numbers on assemblies may well NOT be the
same as the BMW order number.
In other words, the number on a part might be a part-assembly or
casting number. If you cannot get a
reference to the number from one of the on-line parts listings
like A & S, MaxBMW, etc., you MIGHT have
that situation. Ask on the Airheads LIST.
PLEASE point out errors found, to the author, who can be E-mailed at: CLICK
In a few instances,
below, more than one number is shown for a part. Sometimes
those are actually the exact same part, other
times the parts ARE different. Sometimes I have noted the
variations.
Abbreviations:
BL MU sheet nut
BMW may listed them as BL MU 4, 2-4; also listed as B4, 2-4 BLMU...these are all
the
same thing.
BLMU, as above
The two above are sometimes generically called Tinnerman nuts in the USA. They are
a folded piece of metal,
that are used with fairing parts, to provide a place
for a screw to go through one side and tighten on the other side.
There are many
types of these used on aircraft, etc. Some expensive types have a hardened
metal nut that floats
in a cage, that works exceptionally well.
Modest cost ones work fairly well on the BMW fairings....but I do not
like the
cheapest of the cheap. I have the part numbers in the miscl. area, well
below.
BL SHR sheet metal screw (see ** note below)
DT RG gasket ring
KL Generally used for the type
of C (or E) clip used at the seat holding pegs.
LIN BL SHR fillister head self tapping screw (see ** note below)
LIN SHR fillister head screw (see note ** below)
LIN SK BL SHR countersunk head fillister self-tappping screw (see ** note
below)
LIN SK SHR countersunk fillister head screw
MU nut
PA SHB disc ring
SHR screw (see ** note below)
SK BL SHR countersunk lens head screw (see ** note below)
SK SHR countersunk head screw (see ** note below)
STI SHR studbolt
VSL SHR plug screw
ZYL SHR fillister head screw...per book, but is allen bolt??
BMW may use the word
'fillister' differently
than in common American usage. In America, a fillister head screw is NOT an allen head
screw; but BMW's
usage means allen head, that is, a recessed 6 point socket for
use with an allen wrench.
ZYL STI dowel pin
4KT MU square nut
6KT BL SHR hex lens head screw (see ** note below)
6KT MU hex nut
6KT SHR hex screw -KT-SHR is really a hex head,
although the SH might lead you to believe it is a allen type;
and ZYL-SHR is a
allen headed type. HB is supposedly a hex head bolt only.
BMW has sometimes substituted various types of heads, and you might order one type and get another type.
yes...all this is very confusing!
In general I have tried to separate out the
confusion, in the parts listings below.
Hex nuts
07-11-9-922-053; -054 M-6 some books show this as a locking nut; other
books show this number being replaced by 23-11-2-322-368.
07-11-9-922-081; -856; 07-11-9-921-076; -077; -074 M-8
some books have the 074 and -081 as locking types; the -081 is replaced
now by 07-11-9-922-825, and THAT by -856
07-11-9-922-110; 11-11-0-001-104, replaced by 11-11-1-263-903 M-10 some books show -110 as
locking, the -110 is replaced
by 07-11-9-915-558
07-11-9-922-122 M-10 x 1.0 mm
33-17-1-237-789 M-10, 12 point
07-11-9-922-148; -940 M-12 x 1.5 NOTE: may be 18 or 19 wrench
size
07-11-9-921-631; -633; 07-11-9-901-309 M-14 x 1.5
Security nuts (similar to Nylocks; that is,
they have plastic inserts) (BMW also has used other types of security nuts,
some
are here).
***Sometimes BMW will identify a nut as a
security type, and it is NOT SO, so do NOT depend
on the numbers here to be
security nuts, without LOOKING at one.
07-12-9-922-404; -452 M-4
07-12-9-922-411; -410; 07-11-9-922-035; 12-31-2-322-422; 07-11-9-921-038 M-5
07-12-9-922-416; -417; -058; -800; -807 ; -704 M-6
07-11(and 12)-9-922-053 M-6 (some books show this as a locking
nut; other books show this number being replaced by 23-11-2-322-368).
07-12-9-922-428; -427; -713; 07-12-9-964-675; -058; -716; -087; -096; 18-11-4-090-251 6KT MU M-8
**NOTE that 07-12-9-922-058 is listed above for M-8 AND M-6...ONE is in error!
07-12-9-922-435; -434 M-10 self locking
07-11-9-921-615; 07-11-9-900-079 M-10 x 1
07-11-9-922-148; -940; 07-11-9-921-627 M12 x 1.5
07-11-9-921-069; 07-11-9-901-307 M 16 x 1.5
Cap nuts (sometimes called closed dome nuts)
07-11-9-924-000 M-5
46-61-1-236-388; 07-11-9-924-403 M6
07-11-9-924-324 M-6
07-11-9-924-334 M-8
11-12-0-023-160; 11-12-1-744-330 for center of valve cover
Lock and wave (spring) washers (BMW has
interchanged these at times per #, and I
believe that sometimes BMW is
not accurate on what type is which, as far as waverly, plain, locking.)
07-11-9-932-009 A-3
07-11-9-932-013 B 3
07-11-9-932-030; -033 B-4 waverly. 'dented' washer is
07-11-9-936-041; -042
07-11-9-936-041 J 4.3 STAR washer (note conflict
with above line!)
07-11-9-932-041; -043 A-5 -041 replaced by -098; -043 by -047
07-11-9-932-079; 07-11-9-933-095 A-8
07-11-9-932-046 B-5 lock (spring washer, 5 x 11)
07-11-9-932-062; -061; -070; -071; -072; #6 or B-6
07-11-9-932-073 WAVERLY
B6
07-11-9-933-082 M-6 lock may be error, may be flat washer
07-11-9-932-094;-093; -077 B-8 spring/waverly. Book is
unclear. It appears that -094 is replaced by 07-11-9-932-079 which was
replaced by 07-11-9-933-095, but -933-079. Suspect a digit error on the
-933- term
07-11-9-933-095; -079 B-8 or M-8 lock (may be waverly)
07-11-9-932-112 B-10 spring; may be A; large O.D.; for medium
diameter A-10 use -103 and -111; for large O.D. A10 use -122.
see also
07-11-1- 242-296.
07-11-9-933-110 B-10 lock
07-11-9-936-042 J type 4.3 star washer
21-21-1-242-377 A 7.4 star washer (BMW calls it a fan washer); clutch
washers
07-11-9-936-191 A 8.2 star washer
07-11-9-930-840 B8 SPLIT lockwasher. This is the washer that was
used at the driveshaft U-joint before BMW wised up and
eliminated it in favor of
a slightly shorter bolt.
34-11-1-240-570 flat size 8 washer
Plain washers
07-11-9-931-029 black
07-11-9-936-405; 07-11-9-931-622; 07-11-9-931-015 3.2
07-11-9-931-033; -030; 07-11-9-936-415; -416 A 5.3
07-11-9-931-065; -660; 07-11-9-932-081; 07-11-9-936-432 A 8.4 or plain 8.4
07-11-9-931-826; -684 for M8 bolts ; 8.4
07-11-9-931-027 A4.3
07-11-9-931-043; -018; -650; -696; 34-21-4-044-133; 07-11-9-936-426; -408;
-425 6.4 for M6 bolts
07-11-9-931-668; -664; -649; -077; -698; 36-31-1-451-479 10.5 A 10.5
36-31-3-004-378 Thick washer for rear axle of /5; also see
33-41-1-232-709 and 33-17-1-236-956 for some or all later models.
07-11-9-931-083 A-13, used on size 12 bolts
Plain (solid) sealing washers and crush
washers (note
that many early crush type washers are now being shipped
as
slightly different number and are solid
type)
07-11-9-963-140; -130 DT RG C 12 x 15.5 crush, driveshaft drain and
driveshaft fill.
07-11-9-963-999; -470; -047; -041; DT RG C (or A) 8 x
11.5 Fork drain, late model rear drive oil level inspection hole.
07-11-9-963-213; -200 14 x 20 DT RG rear drive drain; transmission fill and drain.
07-11-9-963-259; -200 oversize 16 x 20 DT RG rear drive
drain; transmission fill
and drain.
07-11-9-963-252 DT RG A 16 x 20
used at pulse air fitting at
cylinder head and at the airbox.
07-11-9-963-073 10 x 13.5 x 1 solid washer for top of fork
bolt
07-11-9-931-622; -015 3.2
13-11-1-259-870 3.5 mm hole washer used on the Bing
carburetor vacuum port screw
07-11-9-936-413; -412; 07-11-9-931-637 A4 flat
washer, 4.3
07-11-9-936-415; -416 5.3
07-11-9-963-010 DT RG A 5 x 7.5 small solid washer, fork
drain
07-11-9-963-151 solid washer 12 x 17 fork bottom
07-11-9-963-034 solid washer, thermostat lower bolt 6.5 x 9.5
07-11-9-963-130 DT RG A 12 x 15.5 solid
washer for oil cooler banjo bolt; also used at the neutral switch on early 5
speed
transmissions. see also 61-21-1-355-262, and at fork lower, bottom,
center bolt.
07-11-9-963-002 flat washer 3.5 x 6
07-11-9-963-310; -300 DT RG C 18 x 22 crush, engine oil pan
drain. -300 is solid.
07-11-9-963-420 DT RG 26 x 31 used at dipsticks
until 1980. Part is obsolete, but UNconfirmed information was that
POSSIBLY #11-43-1-337-308 will work.
M-4 hex head bolts 6KT SHR
07-11-9-913-091 4 x 20
07-11-9-913-097 4 x 25
M-5 hex head bolts 6KT SHR
07-11-9-913-212 5 x 8
07-11-9-913-218 5 x 10
07-11-9-919-613 5 x 12
07-11-9-919-903; 07-11-9-913-252 5 x 20
M-6 hex head bolts 6KT SHR
07-11-9-913-426; -432; 07-11-9-914-148 6 x 10
07-11-9-913-441; -014 6 x 12
07-11-9-913-451 M 6 x 14
07-11-9-913-465; -015; -464; -466; 07-11-9-911-218 M6 x 16
07-11-9-913-470; -019 6 x 18
07-11-9-913-476; -016; 07-11-9-915-030; 07-11-9-913-114 M6 x 20
07-11-9-913-567 6 x 22
07-11-9-913-480; -018 6 x 25
31-42-1-240-053 6 x 28
07-11-9-913-499 6 x 28, could be 30 mm
31-42-1-237-529; 32-71-1-240-053; 07-11-9-913-590; 31-42-1-240-053; 07-11-9-913-573 6 x 30
07-11-9-912-303; 07-11-9-901-189 M6 x 35
07-11-9-912-312; -323 6 x 40
07-11-9-912-326; -324 6 x 45
07-11-9-912-335; -337 6 x 50
07-11-9-912-360 6 x 65
M-8 hex head bolts 6KT SHR
07-11-9-911-605; 07-11-9-910-342 8 x 12 thread
pitch 1.0
07-11-9-913-618; -624; 07-11-9-901-191; 07-11-9-919-939 8 x 16
07-11-9-913-640; 07-11-9-901-120 8 x 20
07-11-9-913-652 8 x 22
07-11-9-913-656; 07-11-9-901-125 M8 x 25
63-12-1-356-921 8 x 25 as used on side of /5 headlight
shell
07-11-9-913-662 8 x 30
07-11-9-913-111; -674; 07-11-9-912-477; 33-41-1-232-701 M8 x 35
07-11-9-912-507 8 x 45
07-11-9-918-655 8 x 50
07-11-9-912-556 8 x 80
M-10 hex head bolts
07-11-9-911-631 10 x 1 x 20 as used with /5/6 oil
filter inner cap
46-52-1-235-511 10 x 20 special shoulder bolt used at center stand
07-11-9-913-807 10 x 12
07-11-9-913-831; 07-11-9-913-834 10 x 25
07-11-9-913-839; 07-11-9-901-166 10 x 30
07-11-9-913-837; -844; 46-71-232-703 10 x 35 -837
may be 10 x 30
07-11-9-913-855; -853; -868; 07-11-9-901-169; 33-53-1-232-702 10 x 45
07-11-9-913-859 10 x 50
07-11-9-912-453; 07-11-9-919-756; 07-11-9-901-107 10 x 60
M-12 hex head bolts
M-14 hex head bolts
4 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR
07-11-9-919-381 4 x 12
5 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR
07-11-9-919-611; 12-13-2-322-416 5 x 8
07-11-9-919-614; 07-11-9-900-311 M5 x 16
07-11-9-919-617; -903; 12-31-2-322-418 5 x 20
07-11-9-919-619 5 x 30
07-11-9-919-908; 12-31-2-322-417 5 x 45
6 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR
07-11-9-919-910 6 x 10
07-11-9-919-792 M6 x 10, with captive waverly
07-11-9-919-912 6 x 12
07-11-9-919-621; -965; -913; -912 6 x 16
07-11-9-919-918; 46-54-2-322-498 M6 x 18
07-11-9-919-716; -920; 23-11-2-322-407 6 x 20 The -407
usually has a deep head which is
particularly nice for use at the oil filter
outer cover/housing.
07-11-9-919-921; 46-71-2-322-405; 07-11-9-919-625 M6 x 25
07-11-9-919-927; 31-42-2-311-105 6 x 30
07-11-9-919-931; -932 M6 x 35
07-11-9-919-937; 46-61-2-322-494 6 x 40
07-11-9-919-630 6 x 50
07-11-9-919-956; 61-12-2-322-496 6 x 60
8 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR
07-11-9-919-637 8 x 12
07-11-9-919-640; 07-11-9-901-023 8 x 16 some books say 8 x 15
for -640
07-11-9-919-974; -969; 07-11-9-920-151 8 x 20 -974 may
be 22 mm
07-11-9-919-646; 07-11-9-901-024 8 x 25
07-11-9-919-647; 07-11-9-901-025 8 x 30
07-11-9-919-984; 07-11-9-901-027 8 x 35
07-11-9-919-648; 07-11-9-901-029 8 x 40
07-11-9-919-638; 07-11-9-901-033 8 x 45
07-11-9-919-649; -796; -803; 07-11-9-901-034 8 x 50
-034 may be 8 x 45
07-11-9-919-651 8 x 55
07-11-9-919-656; 07-11-9-901-036 8 x 80
10 mm Allen bolts
07-11-9-919-662 M10 x 12
07-11-9-919-787; 07-11-9-901-039 10 x 20
07-11-9-919-769; 07-11-9-901-049 10 x 30
07-11-9-919-740; -771; 07-11-9-901-064 10 x 35
07-11-9-919-756; 07-11-9-901-107 10 x 40 may be error,
-107 may be 60 mm long
07-11-9-919-672; 33-17-1-454-309; 07-11-9-901-088 10 x 45
07-11-9-919-739 10 x 50
12 mm Allen bolts
ZYL SHR
14 mm Allen bolts
Threaded lengths; studs
07-11-9-908-255 STI SHR 6 x 25
07-11-9-908-104 STI SHR 6 x 40
07-11-9-908-378 10 x 50, used at 12:00 and 6:00 on cylinders-to-head
07-11-9-908-174 (may be
07-12-9-908-174, or, may be two
types of these with different numbers!) 10 x 30, used as above.
11-11-1-252-310 STI SHR
07-11-9-903-306 STI SHR 8 x 18
07-12-9-903-326 STI SHR 8 x 25
07-11-9-903-349; 07-12-9-908-130 STI SHR M8 x 35
07-12-9-908-141 STI SHR 8 x 45
07-12-9-908-135 STI SHR M8 x 50???
07-12-9-908-137 STI SHR 8 x 55
07-12-9-908-145 STI SHR 8 x 65 original valve
cover center stud. LONGER: 07-12-9-908-142, 70 mm
07-11-9-908-385; 07-11-9-903-436 STI SHR M 10 x 35 SN 4
07-11-9-908-391 10 x 55. Appears to be obsolete; probably
replaced by 07-12-9-908-177...???
11-11-1-257-397 275 mm cylinder stud, 10 x 1.5 mm
11-11-1-265-195 297 mm cylinder stud; used at right side, rear,
both, 10 x 1.5 mm
46-71-1-230-475; -762 long threaded at both ends studs used at footrest
M12 x 1.5 thrds
46-71-1-230-762, engine mount stud, 306 mm long
46-71-2-311-725, engine mount stud, 315 mm long
46-71-1-230-475, engine mount stud, 327 mm long
Common?? screws, can be slotted or phillips, EVEN IF codes say other type
07-11-9-907-701 special screw used at fairing vents, really a
size 3, but book says B2.9 x 6.5
07-11-9-928-432; -130; -103 M4 x 16 SK SHR, screw used at fairing
vents
07-11-9-907-603 3 x 10 LIN SHR see next line
07-11-9-907-602 LIN SHR AM 3 x 8 screw used at one style of
crankcase oil breather;
NOTE: book shows -602 to be used for -603
07-11-9-907-604 LIN SHR AM 3 x 10
07-11-9-907-616 LIN SHR AM 4 x 10
07-11-9-906-435 LIN SHR 4 X 12
07-11-9-913-373 4 x 10 ZYL SHR AM
07-11-9-919-381 4 x 12 ZYL SHR AM
07-11-9-901-703 4 x 12 LIN SK SHR
07-11-9-901-720; 07-11-9-928-439 SHR AM 4 x 20 phillips
07-11-9-907-639 LIN SHR 5 x 10 used at seat side rail
07-11-9-907-627 LIN SHR AM 5 x 12
07-11-9-901-771 5 x 15 LIN SK SHR AM
07-11-9-906-415 SHR AM 5 x 16
07-11-9-928-485; -487; -488 5 x 15 LIN SK SHR M
replacements are 5 x 20
07-11-9-901-771 LIN SK SHR 5 x 15 used at the seat strap
07-11-9-907-631; -633 5 x 20 LIN SHR AM
07-11-9-900-810 SK SHR M 6 X 10 counter sunk allen head
used at seat hinge
46-63-1-236-414 SHR M6 x 30
Miscl. hardware:
51-14-4-034-136: This is the frame ID metal plate, come flat, you
must curve it, it fits the steering head area,
is designed to be riveted in
place. These are unobtainable from BMW, AFAIK. Bob's BMW has
them, you
have to stamp in your model, serial, etc.
Fairing pocket
rubber channel material, fits between fairing pockets and the fairing.
Many have substituted part 05-01300 #1 Rubber Channel;
from
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/uchannel.php It has a
1/16" groove and is 3/4" high.
Can also be used at the pockets themselves, where the covers fit.
61-12-2-302-574 solid, better construction, flip-cap cover
for the electrical accessory socket. This is a K bike part that fits.
46-31-1-244-384 UNconfirmed number for a blank plug to fill the
RT/RS large round dash holes when no voltmeter or
clock.
11-11-1-744-327 black rubber timing hole plug
61-21-1-230-392 black rubber battery strap for /5 and
later (except see next line). The -392, brand-new, was
measured and reported to me
as being 26.41 cm (10.4") from center to center of the pins.
The pins were 0.2" in diameter.
61-21-1-243-562 black rubber battery strap for R65,
R80G/S, R80ST, and some few others.
Dimensions:
46-51-1-234-785 black plastic cover for hex head of M8 bolts
52-53-1-230-313 black rubber bumper used over the seat locking rod,
that fits into the seat lock
52-53-1-232-904 round bumper with attaching tit, used at the seats
61-31-8-050-134; 63-12-1-244-378 Chrome washer, side of /5 headlight shell
61-31-8-050-136 rubber washer used with above Chrome washer
61-13-8-050-138 rubber sleeve used with above two items
07-12-9-934-318 special type of C clip used to hold seat to right frame
rail pegs
46-51-1-231-233 Oversize peg that is pressed into the
frame for the sidestand. The frame is reamed for an
interference fit.
46-63-1-235-759 closed end tube-grommet/rubber/plastic?...to cover
fairing screw sharp tips
46-63-1-235-760 B 4.2-4BL MU BMW's version of Tinnerman
nut for fairings. The above number has been replaced by
07-12-9-904-144
This part can be listed in the catalogs in various ways, including BLMU and BL MU 4,2-4
07-11-9-902-513 BL SHR BZ 4.2 x 19 the screw used with
those Tinnerman's, above....there is a short version
4.2 x 16 #07-11-9-902-514
which is replaced by -497
46-63-1-235-512 screw used in joining sections of the
fairing on RS and RT models.
07-11-9-907-944; -946 LIN BL SHR BZ 4.2 x 13 another of the screws
used with the Tinnerman's
07-11-9-902-467; -468 black phillips head sheet metal screw
07-11-9-902-441 silver colored phillips head sheet metal screw 3.5 x 16
07-11-9-902-429 phillips screw 3.5 x 16 used at fairing rubber
tunnel; replaced by -441
21-21-1-231-463 ZYL SHR special bolt for clutch. Note
that except for the R46 and R65 which use a smaller bolt, that BMW changed
from
an early slot screw to Allen style. #'s for these bolts have been that
-463, and 21-21-1-242-371 and 21-21-338-680
26-11-1-230-414 special 12 point bolt, M8 x 14.5 for U-joint,
original early type that used actual split style lockwasher
B-8
07-11-9-930-840. This combination is to ALWAYS be replaced by a
shorter bolt withOUT that washer,
26-11-1-242-297 13 mm length.
33-53-3-054-174 27 mm thin nut used at the swing arm
13-11-1-259-869 screw for Bing vacuum takeoff tube; -870 is the washer.
The screw size is 3.5 mm x 0.6 pitch
13-11-1-336-900 METAL fuel T fitting
11-12-1-337-818 rubber pads used for quieting the cylinder head fins.
46-63-1-235-510 cup washer for fairing taper head sheet metal screws.
71-60-9-024-186 U shaped bolt used at cylinder crash bars, size 8
threads.
46-71-1-230-794; 46-71-1-237-759 U shaped flat clamp with one threaded end, used at
cylinder crash bars, size 8 threads. The
ABOVE THREE bolt/clamp units are
used on the large SINGLE crash bar that covers both sides on the early
airheads. There is a
single type, one for left, one for right, and
the clamp is 46-71-1-235-772 in chrome (now 46-71-1-230-794) and 46-71-1-237-759 in dull black
FRONT FORK:
The headlight fork tube ears,
at the top, just under the top triple clamp, have rubber
bushings...a sort of rubber O-ring. FOUR sizes were
made!..you need to use the one that fits properly on your bike.
31-42-1-232-527 is 3 mm thick
31-42-1-230-696 is 4 mm thick
31-42-1-230-697 is 5 mm thick
31-42-1-230-698 is 6 mm thick
There is also a rubber bushing or O-ring,
located at the BOTTOM of the headlight ears. That one
is only of ONE type and part number: 31-42-2-000-385.
OTHER STUFF:
23-13-1-241-484 special clutch arm
PIN (arm is at
rear of transmission). This pin that has a flange, and won't fly out.
This is used with a clip that is part 51-23-1-864-963.
These two parts replace an earlier pin that uses a
C clip. That version sometimes lost the C-clip, due to being improperly assembled,
and then a transmission ear got broken
off.
11-13-0-007-163; 11-13-1-744-329 magnetic drain plug used at transmission
11-13-0-007-162 oversize magnetic drain plug used at
transmission and rear drive; believe is used with oversize
gasket-washer 07-11-9-963-259. Original size 14 x 18 mm;
larger was 16 x 20 mm.
11-41-2-343-498 magnetic drain plug....not airhead
23-11-1-230-599 hollow breather bolt used at transmission
speedometer cable and battery -
07-11-9-905-660 special set screw, MAY have slot M4 x 6 x
3 neutral switch on /5
07-11-9-941-332 3 x 18 roll pin
07-11-9-944-651 4 x 10 roll pin
07-11-9-941-471 5 x 50 roll pin
07-11-9-941-475; 07-11-9-941-470 5 x 60 roll pin
07-11-9-941-485 6 x 16 roll pin
11-42-1-335-394 special 23 mm bolt for filling the thermostat/cooler.
****Do NOT use if longer than 23 mm!!! Some wrong length
ones were provided by BMW!
Photo of correct one, and wrong one, is below.
If you were to measure these, they vary a bit from 23 and 30
mm....but not too much.
Note that the threaded ends are
rounded, that does not show up well in these photos.
Typically you would find the "23mm" bolt to measure about 0.918"
from under the hex to the tip; and the "30mm" one might be
1.184".
16-11-1-232-237 plastic washer that fits 4 mm screws
16-12-1-240-513 16 x 2 rubber O-ring
Neutral switch for 5 speed transmissions;
and, the spacer: If you have the shift kit installed, you use the late type switch,
-097. The STOCK 1974-1975 5 speed transmissions use
neutral switch 61-31-1-352-153.
The 1976 and later transmissions use switch 61-31-1-243-097.
For that -097 switch you must use ONE special washer, which is 61-31-1-355-262.
DO NOT use a common drain plug gasket washer!
Reports of BMW having shipped the wrong washer have been seen.
Tom Cutter measured a new one and it was 19.8 mm x 12.35 mm x
1.89 mm. Original new ones, which might fit
better (?) are probably 2.0 mm thick.
It is best to use a new washer, but sometimes the old one will
seal adequately.
07-11-9-987-611 lock bow clip. This thin
question-mark-shaped round steel WIRE is
used to lock the balls at the shift linkage and the hydraulic damper balls.
32-72-1-230-874 knurled knob-screw, with nylon insert and captive
spring, used as throttle lock on models drilled and threaded for same.
07-12-9-948-739 3.2 rivet
07-11-9-947-201 6 x 25 rivet
46-63-1-233-909 expandable rivet used at windshield
07-11-9-949-633 A 6 x 0.4 x 10 tubular rivet used at top of fairing
area
36-11-2-227-943: wheel weights, 5 and 10 gm segments, stick-on, used on R1200C, etc.
61-13-8-080-160 Rubber boot for the speedometer cable where said
cable fits the right side rear of the
transmission
TOP
HAT SPACERS:
BMW uses various spacers that I call top hat spacers. BMW
may call them Thrust Sleeves. These are spacers with a flange on one
end, hole entirely through the middle. In airheads prior to 1985, on twin
shock models, at the rear wheel, these are used to space the axle (I do
NOT mean
the many sizes available 'preload' spacer that does NOT have a TOPHAT, and is
often called the Wedding Ring). It is
common to see the stock right side
top hat spacer replaced by the 10.7 mm wider one that BMW offers to move the rear end
over
slightly (especially pre-1982), to allow a wider rear tire.
Rear wheel spacer, 10.7 mm width (height):
36-31-2-301-737.
36-31-4-038-142: This spacer is the stock one, it is
typically 0.359" wide (height, usually ..with slight variances seen)...in
fact I have
seen them from 9.0 to 9.2 mm.
36-31-230-322: This top hat spacer was made in two styles with the SAME
part number! BOTH have a width (height) of 12.9 to
13 mm. An
early version was extra wide on the top hat portion...a diameter of 31.95 mm
nominally. The "seal' surface of this
spacer measures an O.D. of
21.95 mm.
There are other top hat spacers used on the bikes. Some models of
airheads have top hat spacers at the rear swing arm adjustor area,
inside,
between frame and swing arm. They are VERY similar in size to the wheel
spacer, and can usually be interchanged.
Information on using top hat and other spacers for wheel movement is found in articles on the wheels
on this site. Sometimes one must
add flat spacers or move rear disc brake
arm slightly, etc., when dealing with certain types of tires.
Regarding BMW 71-11-1-103-086
Screwdriver........and Phillips and Pozi-driv and Reed and Prince
screws (see TOOLS article for lots more
info):
This screwdriver with the red plastic handle is generally to be
thought of as a Phillips and standard. This BMW screwdriver
does NOT have a Pozi or Reed and Prince
type of tip.
BMW carb top "Phillips" screws
may not really be
Phillips screws, they MAY just look that way at a quick glance. They
could be Phillips, OR could be 'Pozi' type.
The ancient aircraft tip called Reed & Prince works nicely on
the Pozi screws....as, of course, does the real Pozi. The
Pozi tip is EXCELLENT for REMOVING the Phillips type, if the
Phillips is quite tight. Install a Phillips type with a
Phillips screwdriver. If the screws are frozen, you
can try a variety of ideas, see my carb articles. This
includes valve grinding compound for a better grip, a metal block
underneath and an Impakt Driver, etc. Tips for
interchangeable-tip type tools are available from a variety of
sources, including Snap-On. YES, the Pozi IS
available. The
only critical 'Phillips' type screw place on our Airheads is the
screws used on the top of the Bing CV carburetors....although
some would argue regarding the
screw that holds the pod umbilical cord to the pod.
Some have installed Allen head screws at the carb tops. They are OK,
but don't overtighten, as many of these have a very small allen
and can round-out more easily. I DISLIKE Allen's
there. Some carbs had common single slot
screws. BMW and Bing may be shipping EITHER Pozi or
Phillips screws......be sure that your 'screwdriver' fits them,
and do obtain a Pozi #2 or Reed and Prince screwdriver or tip. Remove the screws one at a time, coat the
threads...and taper...with
antiseize....and replace the screws.....you will appreciate that
hint, later on.
The Pozi screws
generally have some radiating lines to indicate they are not
Phillips type.
Little known fact: Phillips
screws and screwdrivers were DESIGNED to not allow over-torquing;
that is, they are designed so the screwdriver will SLIP after a
certain amount of torque is applied. This is pretty crude!
Because of the specific design of the side tines of the Phillips,
one needs different sizes of screwdrivers, as the wrong size will
NOT FIT CORRECTLY.
Here are photos of the Pozi-Driv screw, and the screwdriver tip.
Note the differences from a Phillips!
See the
TOOLS.htm article for more on the
Phillips/Pozi and the Reed and Prince (Frearson)
A brief discussion of 'locking'
methods for hardware
In
general, the most basic reason for having screw and bolt threads
is to prevent something from loosening. One of
several more reasons is to maintain a specific clamping force
between parts. These parts could be brake caliper halves; a
bolt holding a bracket to a casting; or any of many millions of
clamping and other reasons.
Basic, EH!
But, almost every person, including some with degrees in
mechanical engineering, do NOT have some basic information about
how a simple screw or bolt or same with a nut, actually works.
This can become a safety issue, if you substitute something where
the factory had specific reasons for something...or; many other
things could be discussed here.
The actual holding forces in most
fittings/fitments... is NOT the forces in the threads from the
clamping torque, but is the force under the head of the bolt (and
the clamping surface of the nut or casting, etc.).
This is often hard for someone to understand.
The threads only enable the contacting forces to occur.....and to
help maintain them. A gross example of this is the
alternator rotor in your Airhead, where two tapers, a male and
female, provide all the holding force, once brought together by
the central allen bolt.
You do NOT want something to 'loosen' when you do not want it to;
yet you want to be able to unfasten something when that is
needed.
Owning an Airhead, you are undoubtedly aware of a GOOF by BMW,
when the company specified a split type of lockwasher for the 4
bolts that hold the driveshaft Universal Joint to the
transmission output flange. BMW changed to a slightly
shorter bolt and NO lockwasher, but before that change, some
driveshaft U-joints HAVE become disconnected/unfastened, and have
torn off the back of the transmission or caused other serious
problems. The split lockwasher was NOT the proper
type of locking method. In fact, use of NO locking
washer at all was FAR better! Those of us
'in the know' use the NO lockwasher shorter bolt (shortened as
the lockwasher is not there, and use of the original length bolt
would cause damage behind the flange) with a MILD Loctite
product, generally just called 'blue'.
Repetitive stresses and forces tend to loosen things. This can be something as critical as a brake caliper mounting bolt and nut; or something very simple like a single small screw holding an electrical connection.
What should you know about methods of
fastening things where mechanical stresses can occur (and they
CAN occur just from normal day to day temperature changes, not
just mechanically induced stresses)?
Obviously, the more stress cycling there is, the more likely for
a threaded fastener to loosen.
Using numbers of stress cyclings (official terminology is number
of load cycles), versus actual clamping load, the following is
information you can trust:
1. An UNsecured (no locking
method) bolt and nut is generally the worst case...somewhat
epending on materials, steel-into-aluminum?, steel-into-steel?,
and lots of ETC...the strength drops quickly and constantly.
Similar, only a bit better, is a bolt with a split ring lock
washer and a nut; and only a bit better than that is a bolt with
a toothed type lock washer and a nut.
In general, split lockwashers are NOT appropriate where forces
applied are irregular, or recurring.
2. Next is an elastic stop nut. The strength drops
SOMEwhat quickly with load cycles...but then deteriorates only
very slowly with additional cycles. This is why this type
of nut is used in more critical applications.
3. Next is a bolt with the underside of its head being a
saw-toothed flange.
4. The best is usually a bolt that has the correct type of
Loctite (or similar) product applied.
The difference between #3 and #4 can be small. The difference between #1 and #2 and #3 or #4 is HUGE.
Initial upload: 02/25/2003
01/22/2007: All prior revisions incorporated, and some omissions on the
Roundels straightened out ABP
02/01/2007: top hat spacer information expanded
02/13/2007: greatly increase Roundel information, edit other areas for
such as the frame ID plate.
04/02/2007: add -475 stud; edit roundels area, strictly for clarity
04/26/2007: Correct error on -082 Roundel, and add more Roundels, and
improve description on some
07/03/2007: Add information on sizes and lengths of cylinder studs.
10/24/2007: Roundel information moved to its own article, 68B, where it
will be greatly expanded
05/22/2009: Add updated Tinnerman nut number and expand the description
for clarity.
07/07/2009: Clarify some typos and details on character
descriptions
09/24/2009: Add photo and better description of the
thermostat/cooler oil refill bolts.
12/05/2009: minor additions
11/22/2010: Add information on the neutral switch and its
washer.
12/06/2010: Add section on Posi/Phillips.....an edited
version of what is in the TOOLS.htm article
02/08/2011: add front fork ears rubbers numbers
02/16/2011: Add size and pitch to the number for the carb
vac takeoff screw.
10/01/2011: Add locking methods discussion
01/31/2012: add fairing pocket rubber channel information
©
Copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer
Return to Technical Articles LIST Page