Chemicals, Oils, Greases, LOCTITE, Sealants, Anti-seize, Electrical Contact Treatment, Waxes, etc.
For BMW motorcycle owners

chemicalsetc.htm-73
© Copyright, 2011, R. Fleischer

This article will give the average Airhead motorcycle owner (and some good information for K-bike owners too) some insights, some of it in technical detail, about some products that I think should be on hand or considered, some not, that will cover MOST needs. My shop used, literally, dozens of lubricants, cleaners, sealants, ETC.   YOU probably only need a FEW of the items mentioned. I will also provide some information contained in a BMW bulletin from a long time ago.

Sealants:

 Besides Hylomar (not the best anymore), or Three-Bond 1215 (or such as Permatex Ultra-Grey, and sealants from Yamaha and Honda which are also popular for airheads), which are used at the cylinder bases of the non-O-ring cylinder models (and I personally use on the O-ring models too),,,,, FEW other sealants are required NOR SHOULD BE USED on the BMW airhead motorcycle (in general).   

The best cylinder base sealant is expensive Dreibond, or Three-Bond from your BMW dealer.  I am no longer recommending Hylomar as the second best sealant.   Item 11, well below, discusses Hylomar in depth.
The following are tested and acceptable:
Permatex 27 Hi Temp RTV
Pro-Seal Red 700 degree RTV
Be SURE to allow the sealant to 'set up' for half an hour BEFORE assembling.  THUS, the order of events is sealant, wait, oil the O-rings, assemble, torque.

 The places sealants are NOT USED INcludes the engine oil pan; inner timing chest-to-engine; head gaskets; valve cover gaskets, rear drive gaskets; driveshaft gaskets; etc.    In a FEW instances, where a previous owner has messed up the surfaces of the mating pieces, Permatex NON-hardening Form-a-Gasket can be used, but this is to be done with caution, as gasket sealants can cause problems you may not think of, and repairing the surfaces is vastly better most of the time.  SOME BMW gaskets are impregnated with a substance that activates after the surfaces get hot, and if you coat surfaces or gaskets with YOUR stuff, you will defeat BMW's intentions.  This is so with the pan gasket and valve cover gaskets (on the head side of that gasket). Some areas should not have gasket sealants, to avoid the surfaces moving with respect to each other.   This includes the junction of rear drive and driveshaft on Airheads.
 NOTE!....BRAND NEW valve cover gaskets have a heat-activated 'glue' on the HEAD side of that gasket.  Thus, if installing a BRAND NEW gasket, the surface between gasket and head must be clean and dry, not oily. If the valve cover gasket is used/old, but in good condition, I recommend you clean the head and cover and gasket surfaces, and then use a finger smear of non-synthetic engine oil on the valve cover gasket HEAD side.  Eventually it will semi-bond to the head from repeated heating/cooling, and then when you remove the cover, you are less likely to tear the gasket, and it can be used over and over.  NO oil on outer surface!

  In particular do NOT use any type of goop on the pan gasket!    
Using any sealant where it does not belong MAY WELL allow the two parts to 'walk' with respect to each other.   Heed my warning, do NOT use sealants except as noted!  

It is critical that gasket mating surfaces be completely clean and dry. I use a strong fast evaporating solvent.   Allow no nicks at the metal surfaces that would give poor sealing.  This is particularly troublesome at the cylinder base area, the engine case, where a dropped rod might put a tiny nick, that will keep the cylinder from being perfectly flat and going fully home; other places are the various covers.

NOTE!!.....For a short period of time, BMW did assemble rear drive CARDAN COVERS (that's the LEFT cover) using a sealant, and NOT a paper gasket.  The difference is not as important as that if you change, you may upset the gear shimming.

Places that Hylomar, etc., were used include the threaded ring inside the nose of the rear drive and fork top and bottom caps threads.  Those places are STILL good places for Hylomar.  Hylomar was THE sealant a long time ago for the cylinder bases, but I now recommend that you use modern silicon or other modern sealants, but very sparingly.

All the rest of the stuff:

1. One of the FIRST things you may want to purchase is a squeezable tube of some sort of hand protector. You apply this toothpaste consistency, soap-like substance, to CLEAN and dry hands, ESPECIALLY under and around fingernails, BEFORE starting work.   When you are done wrenching, you clean up with item #2 below, followed normally with soap and water, and you will find that your hands do not look like a typical mechanic's!  Some folks go so far as to wear surgical gloves. I have never gotten used to the feel, but I still use gloves sometimes for certain jobs...especially to keep engine oil, gasoline, etc., off my hands to avoid absorbing the bad things in them.   Used oils are BAD things!...although not nearly as bad as in the old days of leaded fuels.

2. Your SECOND purchase should be a waterless hand cleaner.  If you do a lot of dirty work, get the dispenser-fed type.   If you don't do much wrenching, a small tub or squeeze tube of the stuff is fine.   I use both the hand protector mentioned above in #1, before wrenching, and the waterless cleaner afterwards, wiping hands thoroughly on an old rag, and THEN wash up with the usual household soap.   The waterless hand cleaner cleans the messiest greasiest hands ever. 

*** Start collecting old rags! (those with a modest amount of $ and who like things neatly stacked, can purchase bundles of clean towel-like rags relatively cheap from big box stores...you may even want to cut them into smaller pieces).  

3. Waxes, polishes, etc: I am hesitant to recommend any of these, because everyone has their favorites, often heavily influenced by advertising. There are also some very pricey super-premium products available.  However, here is a list of some relatively easy to find products, that are not pricey, that do a decent job, having been thoroughly tested by one or more consumer publications AND ME:
   a. For paint in excellent condition: NuFinish NFP80 paste
   b. Very long lasting: ArmorAll Car Wax liquid
   c. Weathered paint: 3M #39006 One Step Cleaner Wax, liquid
   d. Spray type: Turtle Wax Express Shine
   e. Generally good all around: Prestone Bullet Wax
   f. Turtle Wax Carnauba Soft T225
   g. Very high gloss for excellent paint: Meguiar's cleaner Wax
        and Liquid A-1216
   h. Pure Carnauba, long lasting, for those who like this type:
       Eagle One Carnauba Pure Paste Wax...#2040612
   i.  This is in RED and emphasized on purpose.  For a plastic cleaner/scratch remover, see item #4 below!!

**NOTE: If your paint is terribly oxidized, you may have to start with common "white polishing compound"...or even, horrors, "rubbing compound". Do NOT use these without realization that you MUST finish with finer cutting products, then wax.

4. Plastic, such as windscreens....and helmet shields:
Meguire's is the old standby, you will need both their #10 and #17.  They are not the very best; but the Meguire's does do a good job...but is slow, and not nearly as good as item d., below.   Below are the top tier items:
   a. For light scratches, oxidation removal, etc:
       3M Plastic Cleaner #39017.
       Max Polishing Systems all metals #1.
       Very good: Novus #2 fine scratch remover.
   b. For heavy scratches:
       Novus #3...follow this with Novus #2, then a polish
   c. Polish:
       Plexus Plastic Cleaner Protectant and Polish.
       Kleenmaster Brillianize cleaner and protectant.
       Can-Do multi-purpose cleaner/protectant/polish.
       Novus Plastic Polish #1.
   d.  I have personally tested all the above products.  The following one works quite well, and is my favorite for general purposes; is not as expensive as some others, and I love it for for removing fine scratches, and some slightly deeper
         ones too, in all types of windshields; face shields, instrument lenses....just about anything plastic.  The product is Part No. 681 DuraGloss Plastic Polish.  That is an 8 ounce plastic container with flip nozzle top.  It is a product by Car
         Care Products...which is actually Brothers Research Corp, in Burlington, NC   www.duragloss.com.
          After trying this product I no longer purchase Meguire's; nor hardly anything else, unless for very serious deep scratches, and then I use an expensive aircraft window restoration product kit.   Use this DuraGloss product close
          to as-stated on the container.   I use a very small rag, and rub until the stuff is pretty well dried, then I polish with a clean dry cloth.   The grit size of this stuff seems just about ideal for our motorcycle items.   I sometimes follow it
          by an application of Johnson's Pledge.

HINTS:   When cleaning or otherwise working on your windshield or face shield, etc., make it a HABIT to NEVER EVER rotate that cloth in circles.  Avoid swirl marks that are particularly annoying when riding into a setting sun.   Another good idea is to make it a habit of doing the FRONT of the windshield with up and down strokes, and the rear of the windshield with side to side strokes.  That will not only allow you to easily see where any problems are during final cleanup, and will reduce glare problems. I do that with my face shield too.

5. For the oil in your spout oiler, for use at cable pivots, levers (not bars clutch lever pivot, it is lined with nylon), center stand pivots, ETC.  (Do NOT oil control cable innards...only the very earliest /5 bikes had no linings.  YES to lubricating the END fitments, and often).....:
    You probably should use either a molybdenum containing oil (often just called 'moly' and pronounced 'm-ah-lee'); or, a plain 20 or 30 weight NON-detergent motor oil...sometimes hard to find, but try your auto-parts store. Use motor oil if you have to.   I prefer to have both a moly and a plain oil on hand, in separate oilers. The reason for the non-detergent formulation (I am being very nerdy here) is to keep the dirt and wear products forced out, and not suspended. That is not at all widely known.   Use non-detergent oil for zero to moderate speed bushings, like those your starter motor uses, other bushings, etc.  Some may prefer not to use moly at the levers, where they make nasty black stains on gloves if used excessively. You can even use silicon oil at the levers, and it is clear, no color.  I DO USE moly at the levers, wiping away the excess.   Common '3-in-One oil' is far too light for almost anything on your Airhead.  I do not even like 3-In-One on wee shafts and bearings in the instruments, as it gums eventually.   WD40 has NO place on your airhead for true lubrication purposes....although it is good for removing some types of labels and hardened bug remains.  I suggest you do not use WD40 for lubrication of parts.   For plastics, where a lubricant is SOMETIMES required, often silicon oil or grease is OK. Note that WD40 is a very POOR penetrating oil.  I have information on penetrating oils later in this article.

6. GREASE:  You can probably get away with one brand and TWO type of grease, for just about everything on your Airhead.  Although Bosch makes special greases for the Automatic Timing unit and points felt (1970-1978 Airheads), you CAN use a NON-moly-containing grease, such as the Chevron, below, or BMW #10 red grease, or any number of other medium thick greases.  NO MOLY for points area!

For bearings, you can get away with a single grease, and then add moly to it for for splines.   You may want to get some speciality greases, and I will try to describe some of what you need to know, below:

I like Chevron NLG1 (or NLG2, slightly thicker and better for wheel and other roller or ball bearings) Ultra Duty EP red grease. I use that grease 'as is' at various places. I also add perhaps 30%+ (NOT critical) of any common high % moly grease, for those applications where one would want moly added (NOT tapered or other roller or ball  bearings). 

 If you have any left over Staburags or Optimol (two greases BMW use to recommend for splines at various times), it is probably OK to use that as the 30%+- to even 50%.  The Staburags reportedly may be very slightly abrasive, but I have seen little evidence of  wear over many years of the above mixture used at the clutch splines (transmission input shaft splines). This mixture of NLG1 (or NLG2) and a moly grease is a good mixture for use on the rear wheel splines on the twin-shock models, and the transmission input splines, often those are called the clutch splines. I have tried several types of greases for these splines, keeping track of condition after certain mileage's and type of riding/weather.  I do not believe there is any perfect grease for these two applications.   Würth SIG 3000 may be quite good at the input shaft, but it does not contain moly.  Mixed at 50-70% of that grease with 30-50% of a good moly grease, and it may be about as good a lubricant for BMW splines as I know about...at present.  Be SURE your moly is compatible with the Sig 3000.   I have no good way of telling you what is compatible!.....but Honda Moly 60 seems to be OK, 50-50, or 30-70 with the SIG3000.    Many folks use the Honda grease AS IS, no mixing.  I have NO problem with you doing that, works fine.

The Honda 60 grease is sold by Honda car and motorcycle dealers as SKU08734-001, and you may find that the parts person will have to look it up, as he/she may not know about it.   That part number is for the smaller 3 ounce tube.  There is also a larger size available, often the car dealership parts departments know of the larger size. 

 I am intrigued by KRYTOX grease, but have not done tests....yet.
Another grease that intrigues me, but I have not yet tested it for splines, is Ford's Teflon based grease, Ford part number is D2AZ-19590-A. 
I would test withOUT adding any moly.

Guard Dog Moly (GD525) seems OK.  That grease, which is a 30% moly, uses a SYNTHETIC base, and is likely to be better than Guard Dog GD570, which has 73%.  However the GS525 should NOT BE USED if you do not THOROUGHLY clean off every last remnant of whatever old grease you have been using (assuming NOT a synthetic), or the GD525 won't stick well.  You have to work it into the surfaces with a stiff small brush anyway.    NOTE that the GD570 has a lithium base, so it is not nearly as critical on cleaning before installing....and for most of you, the GD570 is FINE.

 Mercury Marine outboard grease also works fairly well (Napa 18-9200). You can substitute Texaco Starplex 2 'with moly' (should be purchasable both with moly and without). Also, you can try Caterpillar spline lube: "Desert Gold Grease 129-1939, NLG1-2, with 5% moly." 

Autozone sells a molygraph grease that has had good results.

 BelRay has an Assembly Lube....which is also marketed by their industrial division as Molylube Antiseize 15.....There is a report that this stuff has been doing well at the splines.  Has an aluminum complex base, 15% moly solids, supposedly GOOD at preventing corrosion and fretting and has lots of water resistance.

****Do NOT use moly greases in wheel bearings or in the steering head or swing arm bearings.   Moly tends to change to stiff flaky bits if used in roller or needle or ball bearing applications. As a general rule, do not use moly-containing greases, oils, etc., at any place there are rotational speed differences, or in ball bearings, needle or roller bearings, and most sleeve bearings.  Moly is GREAT for most SLIDING surfaces.     Use moly grease on sliding splines.   The exception to using moly is in rear drives and transmissions, where a very specific product, Dow Corning makes it, is used, sometimes helpful, but do NOT use the concentration as printed on the container.

The red Chevron grease I mentioned well above, withOUT moly, is particularly good for water vapor resistance; and, if you live in snow country, is excellent for those easy-to-wear-out universal joints on your 4 wheel drive truck. It is excellent for the BMW clutch throwout bearing parts (yes, I know that transmission oil will EVENTUALLY get to the area and lubricate, as intended), and pretty good for many places on your bike that need grease. It comes in standard grease gun tubes. You'll probably have to go to a Chevron distributor, not a gas station. While the Chevron red grease IS usable for wheel bearings, I prefer a different grease for them, but you could use the NLG2 for the wheels.  You could simply stock NLG2 Chevron EP Ultra duty, some moly grease or Honda 60 paste (to be used by itself for some things including the splines, OR in the Chevron for SPLINES),  and those would suffice for all your greasing needs.  The exception would be where silicon grease is far better and petroleum grease should NOT be used; such as at rubber parts such as petcocks and for electric connections (except battery terminals, where real battery terminal protectant grease or even Vaseline is OK.    I stock the Chevron grease, and a moly grease, and mix the moly with the SIG3000.  I have plenty of various other greases in my shop, but I am trying (very trying....) to simplify things FOR YOU.
   
 Moly grease may be available cheaply in "military olive drab colored  pound cans", at your military surplus dealer or on Ebay.  I am still using some cans of this stuff I purchased a long time ago, manufactured in 1966!  For those anal enough to want to know, here are the main items printed on the can, and the name and number is:   G353, GMD, Grease, Molybdenum Disulfide, MIL-G-21164B. 
 
Some folks have had good results with using anti-seize compound on the clutch splines (AGAIN, this is actually on the transmission input splines ONLY, NOT placed on the clutch disc splines with which it mates). Since anti-seize also has anti-corrosion properties, this may, in fact, work OK...but I have NOT tested it for this purpose.   My suspicions are, without the slightest shred of proof, that the NICKEL antiseize's would be good.  I am STILL awaiting reports from those who have done that: bike model, mileage, condition of splines, blah blah.

A property of greases that is not well appreciated, besides lubrication and moisture resistance, is that for sliding surfaces like splines, you want some grease to remain on the parts and not be forced out or scraped out. Not all greases are good at this. IT IS THESE PROPERTIES of staying in place and of thin-film moisture resistance THAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT FOR THE clutch/input shaft SPLINES!!

7. For those of you with mechanical ignition with points, you can use any of the greases mentioned (without moly) in this posting, but Bosch does make greases:   FT1V4 (5-700-002-005) just for the cam felt (and FT1V26 (5-700-005-005) just for the automatic advance guide shaft). If you decide to purchase these... not at all REALLY necessary IMHO, the small tubes will last you and about 50 members of your local club, the rest of your lives. Ford also made a distributor cam grease (felts too) number C4A2-19xxxx, but I am not happy with that one. My feeling is that the red grease without moly or the Bosch is just fine for the ignition parts on the pre-1979 airheads.  Frankly, it is likely that any soft non-fibrous wheel bearing grease will also work, as they should not melt and be thrown off easily. I've used BMW #10 red grease, and I've used the Chevron without moly, both are fine for this purpose at the points cam and felt.   It is important that the ignition cam be very faintly greased, as if it runs dry, it may squeak, and cause fast wear on the ignition points rubbing block, closing the points.  The inside of the ATU, the guide shaft, also needs greasing.  Bosch actually specified different greases for these places.

8. While I feel that for the wheel bearings you should 'consider' purchasing a REAL wheel bearing grease, the Chevron NLG2 withOUT moly, as mentioned previously, DOES do a great job. The wheel bearing grease I have had the best results with (extremely long shelf life, does not separate, is not fibrous, and sticks and lubricates really well, and has decent water resistance) is Quaker State Multipurpose Grease and Wheel Bearing Lubricant. This grease is a NLG1 type of grease, similar in some respects to that red colored Chevron grease I mentioned...but different characteristics for these purposes, and is thicker. 

9. Heat sink compound: Likely the very best is the WHITE silicone grease made by Dow Corning, type 340.  It is better than the other clear greases for heat transfer.   You can use Radio Shack heat sink compound. You can also use common "dielectric grease" from your nearby autoparts store.  The real heat sink silicone paste is the best, if it is white and contains zinc oxide.   That, like the Dow 340, transmits heat very well.  Silicone heat sink grease is always to be used, smoothly, thinly, evenly, under the electronic black box ignition module (clean off old stuff first), under the gas tank. Clean and re-grease every two years to avoid problems. If the grease dries out, the black box will overheat, causing ignition problems.  If you are lucky, application of grease will revive proper module operation.  SOME silicone dielectric heat sink compounds are clear, as noted the WHITE Dow Corning stuff is much better, containing a zinc compound, similar to what we oldsters used to put on our noses at the beach, and the white stuff conducts heat very well. If you don't want to purchase some, try begging a teaspoonful from the local electronics repair shop.  SEE #10 below, as if you have the clear stuff, it has other uses.  Clear silicone grease DOES work, the stuff may be called Silicone Dielectric Grease at the autoparts store, and the reason it works ADEQUATELY, is that it is used in a VERY thin layer, whose purpose is to fill in microscopic irregularities in the surface of the mating parts.

10. Common clear silicone grease, light to medium thickness.  Your autoparts dealership calls this dielectric grease (usually).  Useful because of its wide temperature range and very long life and compatibility with plastics, rubber, and everything else (generally).  This is THE stuff to use...very sparingly...on the O-rings you are installing in your carburetor, choke parts, petcock innards, and on electrical connections.  LOTS of uses besides those.  Even at the starter motor Bendix drive.  GREAT for preserving rubber parts, where the greasiness is OK.  Silicon oil, in spray cans, is also available for preservative uses....and for spraying into CLEAN and SHINY electrical connections.  Some use it on the various rubber O-rings in such as the carburetor.   It is VASTLY better than WD40. 

  The BEST product to SPRAY or otherwise apply in/on an electrical connection, are Caig products.   For those of you with K bikes, use the Caig products at the computer brain connections...and, every other electrical connection.  Caig invented this stuff a very long time ago. The base compound in the Caig products bonds molecularly with metals.    Common ordinary contact cleaners at such as Radio Shack are NOT nearly as good, nor as long lasting, as the Caig.  In fact, if you use the Caig products I recommend, and properly, a one-time application may be all that is ever needed.
Caig sells its products through distributors of electronics items, but you can find them as Caig Laboratories, 12200 Thatcher Court, Poway, California.  855-486-8388.   http://www.caig.com/
There are a number of different Caig products.  For our Airheads, I recommend you have TWO:
DeoxITDN5, and follow up its application by using DeoxIT Shield.

11. Hylomar:   There are several types of Hylomar.    This stuff was developed for Rolls Royce turbine engines, comes in squeeze tubes, and was originally used primarily on our Airheads to seal the cylinders to the engine block and the input threaded ring at the rear drive nose.  It is different from common silicon rubber sealants, many types of those, and Hylomar seems to work, although NOT as well at the cylinder bases as other sealants....but Hylomar is exceptionally SAFE if a tiny bit gets into the oiling system.    The tube will list a solvent for cleanup...I use acetone. When applying Hylomar I often thin it a little bit with acetone, as only a very thin layer is needed...a thick layer is UNdesirable!!!   You can use a brush, and if needed acetone thinner and a brush...to ensure thinness of application, but do not leave brush bristles at the cylinder base, and keep the sealant out of the oil passageways at the top studs, put it around the OUTside of those boss areas, not inside.

You can see Hylomar information at:  http://www.hylomar-usa.com

Hylomar is a polyester-urethane product, NOT a silicone sealant.   Hylomar sealants don't set up hard, and can be applied considerably in advance of when you need to assemble the parts.

Some have had problems finding Hylomar.  A report to the Airheads LIST on 7-21-2003 gave the following (edited) information:    Tube of Hylomar purchased at NAPA. The package has both the NAPA and Permatex logos and is called Hylomar HPF. The item number is 765-2682. A one ounce tube was on sale for $4.59.  HPF is the same as the latest Hylomar brand version called "Advanced"...it has NO solvents, and is very THIN.

There is also a RACE formula, that adheres better.

The more common Hylomar is now called Universal Blue.  It originally was called PL32M or SQ32M.  The M stands for MEDIUM thickness.  There was also a L for LIGHT and H for Heavy.  M works just fine on Airheads.

The type of Hylomar I still am using, since I have a lot of it left, is the above old  SQ32M, also under the Permatex brand as 25349.   It is basically the SAME as Permatex HPF.

NOTE: Hylomar HS3 is kind of expensive, as is Drei-Bond, both used for cylinder base sealing. Acceptable substitutes are, from tests by OAK a LONG time ago:  Permatex HiTemp RTV #27B and Pro-Seal Red silicone RTV 700 degree, type 80726.  However, whilst those are acceptable from a SEALING standpoint, I am concerned about ANY RTV getting in the oiling system from folks using way too much of the stuff.  I suggest using the Hylomar version, above, if you are willing to accept the fact that it MIGHT not work perfectly, even if applied correctly. You can, of course, use the latest greatest official BMW sealant.  

My recommendation is to use 3-Bond #1215 as your cylinder base sealant.  Let it set up for some time.

Clean the surfaces really well, really degrease them. Apply the sealant of choice VERY SPARINGLY AND AS EVENLY AS POSSIBLE...AGAIN, SPARINGLY!!,  If using Hylomar, let sit at least half an hour before assembly (this is important). DO NOT block oil flow at top studs. Use any of these products VERY sparingly for the cylinder base area, as they will almost totally squeeze out, and you do NOT want the product in the engine, especially not in the oil passageways that are at the top studs, although Hylomar is a safer product if it does get into the oil passageways, than many other...or most other....sealants.     Do NOT spread with a brush unless you will be careful to be SURE no bristles are left....which can cause a leak! by not allowing the cylinder to fully come home to the engine.   I no longer recommend the Hylomar's for cylinder bases.

It is pretty well accepted nowadays that Hylomar is not the best sealant to use, it sometimes fails at the Airhead bases to stop oil leaks.  If you use ANY sealant, be careful...thin application only and CAREFULLY applied, etc.

12. JBWeld, JBKWIK, etc: These are popular epoxy materials that are available almost everywhere, and they DO work well. The -KWIK is good to near 300 degrees. Some folks won't go on a tour without a JBWELD-KWIK kit. With a small piece of 50 or 80 grit sandpaper with this kit, you can do an emergency fairing repair, seal a cracked valve cover, and probably even a cracked oil pan. Epoxy products do not last forever, so throw them out after a few years.  NOTE that duct tape; or, better, radiator repair tape, is also excellent for a very quick emergency fairing repair.   

13. Steel filled 2 part epoxy sealants: no specific place for these on your BMW, but they are very strong, and can sometimes repair a broken part that is unrepairable otherwise, rather than maybe heliarcing..etc. No need to purchase, just know about it. SOME folks have put the fast cure version of these in their bike kits, instead of the JB stuff. I have seen a transmission case and a broken valve cover 'welded' with this stuff.   As with all epoxies, surface preparation and absolute cleanliness, never the faintest oil film, is the way to go.   There are types of epoxies that are promoted as being able to repair THREADS.  Some have had good results with these, after thorough degreasing, for such as stripped out aluminum drain plug area threads.  I've had lousy results.  

14. Weatherstrip adhesives. These are used on our bikes to 'glue' the ID strips along the engine sides, install fairing boots on RS/RT, etc. Common usage is to call this stuff by the name of Gorilla Snot, as they are usually yellowish, but black is now available.   Several brands, but always purchase the 'SUPER' weatherstrip adhesive. I've had great results with Permatex, now available in black as well as original snot yellow, the black works well for RT fairing rubber boots (after degreasing the boots, use on the black painted interior), and the original: 3M (which long ago stood for Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing). ALWAYS follow the directions....this means doing it in two stages of application. This is nasty stuff, so keep it off your paint. It is VERY strong and does not release at moderate temperatures.   Many folks use cyanoacrylate glues (Crazy Glue) at the fairing rubbers, but I have had it fail with age....see below...

3M also makes a Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, do NOT use it...it is not nearly strong enough!

Re:  RT fairing rubber boots for the passage of the fork tubes:
I have not had the best results with most of the thin glues and sealants, they tend to harden and crack eventually and then the boot comes loose. LOTS of pressure on that boot, especially in lock to lock turns. If you use a cyanoacrylic (Crazy Glue or similar name), the rubber and the fairing area must be outrageously cleaned up first. Frankly, it is hard to do right, and I no longer even try using that stuff.  Others feel it is fine.   I use the same Weatherstrip Adhesive mentioned above. I clean the fairing area with a knife, inside and outside the opening, for maybe 1/8" or bit more. I sand it a wee bit. I then clean it with acetone. I have spent over an hour at times doing those things. I then clean the boot groove, and outside of the groove, with acetone or MEK...really thoroughly to remove every last trace of mold release agent. I then install the boot (there is a right and left, so don't install the wrong one, nor install it upside down...that has been done!). I install the boot with the adhesive generously applied to the groove, letting it overflow a bit.  I clean up the fairing immediately with the solvent and a rag. Do not overdo this, the solvent eats paint. Probably isn't good for me, but I refuse to wear plastic gloves for this job. If carefully cleaned up RIGHT AWAY, it looks fine, if not, paint over it. I use my finger, dipped in acetone or MEK to wipe it smooth, before it dries, which is awfully fast. I am sure the solvents are not good for me.  It is fun and games to put additional adhesive at the junction (after the boot is installed) INside the fairing.  I usually make a bit of a mess, spend too much time cleaning, and then I paint it black with a tiny brush. The black stuff would be nicer inside the fairing. This stuff is truly STRONG.  Its use is probably over-kill, and many get along just fine with CrazyGlue dabbed here and there on a carefully cleaned area of fairing and cleaned boot area.  I have not had the best long term results with Crazy Glue, but it sure is vastly easier to use here.  The ideal stuff might be a very strong adhesive in a hypo tube, but never looked into it.

15. Antiseize compounds: Various types are available. They are a MUST for the large finned exhaust nuts (You DO unscrew yours and clean and recoat them and the rings there, yearly or bi-yearly??). I like to use it when assembling ANY of the muffler system, even the pipe joints.   I believe it a MUST for spark plug threads (MY feeling, not held by all, and not held by SOME spark plug manufacturer's). I use it nearly 100% of the time on any steel bolt that is screwing into aluminum. In general, lower the torque on things by 30%  when lubricated by antiseize compounds.  This is especially so (in MY opinion) for the spark plugs, and the 3/4 inch reach 14 mm spark plugs should not be torqued beyond 14 foot pounds if antiseize is used.    If you have a dual-plug conversion, the lower plugs are usually 14 mm and 1/2 inch reach, and they should have perhaps no more than about 10 footpounds of torque, which is JUST enough to flatten a fresh washer.  There is a spark plug article on this website going into this in great depth.  Antiseize compounds have some anti-corrosion properties. Some have used these compounds at the splines for lubrication, rather than regular greases.  I wish these folks would report back to me.  Once an antiseize is used, it works into the metal, so continue using it...don't go back to the higher original torque values.  IN MY OPINION DON'T WORRY about stories ...that SOME spark plug manufacturer's tell you NOT to use the stuff, because of a worry about potential for changed heat range.  HOGWASH.

The BEST is, perhaps, genuine 'Never-Seez', try to find the 'Pure Nickle 2600°' version.  Nickel (the proper spelling) containing anti-seizes are the better types. 
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/purenickel.htm

My experience is that the commonly available Permatex brand anti-seize is not quite as good  BUT IS OK for OUR needs. ALWAYS have antiseize on hand.  The common Permatex brand does contain copper and nickel, it is the carrier medium in it that disallows super high temperatures...again, it is OK!

16. Cyanoacrylic adhesives/glues. Often called by one of the original trade names 'CrazyGlue', and originally developed by the Eastman (Kodak!) company,  these are strange 'glues' that are best for sticking your fingers together. Others may disagree, but this stuff is NOT always reliable, tends to get brittle and therefore crack, and has few places for use on your BMW.   You may find uses for it, such as holding one of the damnable easy to loose ball bearings to its spring in the switch gear when you are working in that area, inside the instrument pod at the odometer gear-to-shaft (they tend to slip), RT fairing rubber boots as previously noted (I don't like it there), etc.   

Do NOT use Loctite for the speedometer or other parts where a metal shaft goes into plastic.  Common Loctite is BAD on/for plastics, and it may cause cracking of the plastic.

17. Anaerobic adhesive/sealants: the most popular brand name is LOCTITE. I suggest you purchase a small size...and you might as well purchase Loctite brand, it is very commonly available at auto-parts stores. It is kind of expensive, but worth the money.  This is a really strange type of chemical compound. They come in many grades and types, MOST of which are NOT stocked at your auto-parts store, and for which you will likely have no need.  Some types are for such as keeping bearing outer race shells from rotating or even taking up clearance from one that did rotate...and avoiding expensive machining.  Most commonly these products are used to lock screws and nuts. The strange thing about these sealants is that they are NOT GLUES, but are activated by the ABSENCE of oxygen, and are therefore called anaerobics.   The containers are made of a special plastic, that allows oxygen to get to the contents.  Sometimes the contents will harden in the spout.  I think that some spouts are NOT that same type of plastic as are the bottle bodies, which is why it hardens in the spout (most now use one plastic).....simply use a needle in the spout.  Do NOT store the plastic bottles in baggies!!

****Uncommon knowledge:  These anaerobic compounds do NOT set up the same way on various materials.  Without getting into ion exchange and other technical details, I ask that you simply accept this information as true.   It might surprise you to find out that the setup time (hardening time) is MANY times longer on aluminum-aluminum, than on steel into aluminum (or steel into steel).  Also, the values for strength, and a few other characteristics, are generally assumed in the literature (even if not stated!) to be for STEEL...and steel as it is received from a manufacturer...so it may or may not be exactly and totally and certainly NOT almost antiseptically degreased...you may not see an oily film that actually exists.  Loctite, and the other makers, further assume you are assembling the parts at 72°F (22°C).  These anaerobic compounds generally set up far more slowly if cold.    Loctite, and other similar manufacturer's, may also not prominently tell you on the package that they ASSUME, in SOME instances, that YOU have specially cleaned the parts and coated them with a Loctite activating primer.   For PRACTICAL purposes, for bolts of steel going into steel or bolts of steel (plated or not) going into aluminum, and with the threads clean and dry before applying Loctite, you CAN and SHOULD ASSUME that full and adequate strength will be obtained within three days.  Adequate strength usually within 24 hours.  

NOTE:  these products get weaker as the temperature rises, and MOST have little strength left at 300°F (149°C).  Be careful NOT to use a high strength Loctite, such as the ones typically colored RED,  if you may want to unscrew the bolt without a considerable application of HEAT.

The Loctite Corporation has made many versions over the years. What you should consider is the following:

 Threadlocker #290 (29000), green. This is for small diameters, can SOMETIMES be applied AFTER assembly as it is very thin, and thus may creep into things, which it is designed on purpose to do.  It has a medium low strength and the parts are held OK, but removable. NOT for heavy duty parts under real strain. I use this or the BLUE at the 4 enrichener (choke) screws on the side of the Bing CV carbs, and any other places for small screws or light holding strength. 
***There is a #222, purple, that is for use before assembly, and if you had to choose between #290 and #222, #222 might be better. You probably will not use this, so I recommend you just know about it.  If you have some, it is fine for low torque applications such as on small instrument screws, etc.

 #242. Strong, apply before assembly, parts usually still removable. Also called Blue, due to its color!  Very commonly used. This is THE ONE you should always have on hand. 
****Here are some places that #242 is used (not all are listed here):
Stud bolts for timing chain cover.   M8 screw plug at front and 2 M12 x 1 screw plugs at side and rear of engine block that seal the internal oil passageway (some use RED for those plugs).  Center pipe of the oil filter; fillister head screw at breather; oil pump cover screws; oil pickup bolts; POSSIBLY on the center 13 mm bolt going downward into transmission from airbox (on threads AND under bolt head...to prevent leaks) (I usually use non-hardening Permatex Form-a-Gasket myself at that bolt, as I worry about leakage of oil, not loosening); nut that holds the coupling hub in rear drive.  I use it at the carburetor butterfly screws and the U-joint bolts at the transmission output flange.  I use it in rebuilding transmissions, at the top screw that holds the baffle.  BTW...I tend to tag that screw "do not loosen"....:-)

 #271 and #272. These are VERY strong, with the edge to #272 because it has the highest temperature rating and cures fast. These really hold, and you WILL almost for sure need a LOT OF HEAT to be able to remove parts. **Do NOT use these unless you are SURE you will need to, and are willing to HEAT the parts to disassemble them.    If you plan to have only 2 Loctite's, RED should be #2.   I use red Loctite at the oil galley sealing plugs (sometimes Permatex Form-a-gasket PERMANENT version).

****Loctite made #271 for North American markets.   There is a 270 and a slightly improved version of 270, called 2701, that is used by BMW on such as Paralever pins.  They set up faster, and are BARELY stronger.  You can probably use common 271 in place of the 270 or 2701.  NO guarantees by me (lawyer talk).  Loctite is probably going to discontinue 2701 from RETAIL sales, and might even ship 271 in place of it.  Be careful using these very high strength Loctite's as they OFTEN need a LOT of heat to enable loosening the fitting. 

NOTE:  Snowbum uses Loctite BLUE on his personal bike's Paralever...yes, the bike with the sidecar attached!   Snowbum HATES Loctite red at this location....it is way too difficult to remove the nut and pin.   Snowbum well understands that BMW recommends 2701.  Snowbum thinks he knows why, it is lawyers, and worry over what could happen if the Paralever nut and pin loosens and the pin backs out.   Snowbum isn't much worried, but he does use the lesser strength BLUE, and he DOES put paint marks on the housing, nut, and pin, to be able to easily see if they have moved.  They never have.   

 NOTE!!!....it is important to remove all traces of the old sealant, before using fresh Loctite.   When reinstalling fittings with fresh Loctite, it is  FAR BETTER  to remove the old hardened Loctite.  That can be done with brushes or wire wheels and maybe acetone....in stubborn instances use common paint remover.  In a few instances, you may have to use a tap or die to clean off old Loctite.

****#640. This is a special type used to hold such as previously spun outer races of bearings that have not deteriorated the bores too much. Very expensive, usually available in large containers only. I have this item if you need it.  You pay shipping both ways.  It is used on airheads primarily at the /5 wheel bearing outer shell (race), when the shell has spun in the wheel, but the clearance is still reasonably small.

Loctite products should be carefully used. Do not use them where they can creep into the rotating parts of bearings, etc. Allow at least 24 hours to cure, no matter what the manufacturer says.  These products do NOT work as well if the parts are greasy, oily, or dirty. 

 I install most Helicoils with Loctite RED, wait for a full cure, then wash the excess out with strong solvents (and often a brass brush), before using a bolt in the threads.

***Loctite also makes Locquic's which are several types of liquids, in concentrates and premixed, that will make Loctite 'set up' quickly, or set up on difficult materials, such as plastics and some plated metals.  Used properly, you can be done with a job in minutes, instead of waiting a day or more.  Keep in mind that MISUSE of these can cause the parts to seize before fully assembled.  

Small tubes of Loctite can be stored a long time. If the spout clogs, use a common sewing pin to open the hole. Do NOT store Loctite in baggies!

 Occasionally a question will arise about proposed changes to a factory torque setting if Loctite is used on a bolt or screw, perhaps one that was originally specified to be installed clean and dry.   Loctite is formulated to have only a small effect on effective torque (increases it slightly) so you can generally disregard torque changes, as Loctite does not act like a true lubricant. 

 However, for the especially nerdy, here is some technical information: 

The clamping force, usually symbolized as letter "F", is really the force at the UNDERSIDE of most bolting situations, and the THREADS are there to ensure you reach that value, and keep it.  Please re-read that once more!   Yes, it is true that the HEAD to material SURFACE interface IS the CLAMPING FORCE.  This is a simplification, of course.   IF, however, the head and material do not match and mate properly, then the holding force may well include a considerable amount of the thread force.   Generally speaking, at least 4 fully engaged threads are the MINIMUM needed to ensure relatively close to rated forces and strengths, including ability for the threads to not pull out.  Torque on a bolt is the product of multiplying a factor called "K" by the diameter of the bolt, usually called "D", by that force F.   You don't really need the formula here, so it is not shown....but...K is a decimal, and T is in inch-pounds if D is in inches. 

NOTICE that the force goes UP as the K factor goes DOWN.    The relationship illustrates why a given torque value is more likely to break a smaller diameter bolt, common sense tells you that anyway!

For a CLEAN, DRY, NOT plated threaded steel bolt, nice quality threads, going into a clean, dry, NOT plated threaded steel hole with nice quality threads, the factor K is about 0.20.  If the parts are faintly oily, K is about 0.15.   You can simply use those as expressed as a percentage, if curious enough.   NOTE that I said that force goes up with K going down.  Thus, faintly oily parts have higher working torque, even if the applied tightening torque was the same.  THINK about that statement.

Loctite type 242 (blue) has a K factor of about 0.14 to about 0.15, having ABOUT the same effect as if the parts were SLIGHTLY oily, and Loctite was NOT then used.  242 is specially made to have a controlled lubricity effect.     BTW, type #272, the strong and rather permanent Loctite, has a K factor of about 0.21.

This all means that, theoretically, if the manufacturer had originally specified a torque with clean and dry threads, that you should REDUCE the torque wrench reading by, perhaps, 15-25%, when using Loctite.    This does NOT apply if the manufacturer SPECIFIED using such a sealant.  I almost never reduce torque for parts to which I applied Loctite.

In practice, bolts are of sufficient strength, so no changes in torque values are normally used with Loctite.  It is NOT clear to me WHY BMW did not specify Loctite BLUE at the U-joint bolts, but I definitely use it there, at 29 foot-pounds of measured applied torque.   It may be that BMW counted on the discredited and NOT to be used split lock-washers that had been used on early models.   Later on, BMW had a bulletin, to change the bolt lengths and eliminate the lock-washers.

****A discussion of various methods of 'locking' screws, bolts, etc., is located in the HARDWARE article.    You probably will find it rather interesting.
 

18.  Penetrating oils:
Tests have been run on penetrating oils.   One of the best commercial products is Kano's "Kroil".   WD40 is very poor at this job.  PB Blaster is not all that good either.  "Liquid Wrench" brand is nearly as good as the Kano Kroil.     I use a mixture that has worked very well for me, and others, and it is just about any brand or type of automotive automatic transmission fluid, mixed with a good solvent.  The solvent I used at one time was carbon tetrachloride, but nowadays I use MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone, from any hardware store), or acetone (hardware store).   There is an aircraft liquid that works well called MOUSEMILK.

19.  Electrical contacts, switches, etc:   FIRSTLY!!!!!!...NEVER use WD40 on electrical contacts.  Over time it will get gummy and act up!

20. MISCL. ITEMS: 

Acetone and MEK: Great fast evaporating solvents, keep away from paint!!!   Keep away from plastics!!!  Used for degreasing and some plastics gluing or glue solvents.  Don't inhale fumes.  Useful for cleaning some types of parts, including removing old hardened Loctite (in stubborn instances, use paint remover gel).   When acetone is mixed with automatic transmission fluid, it makes a WONDERFUL penetrating oil.

Brake fluids: Use ONLY DOT3 or the slightly better DOT4. Keep it OFF the paintwork, and keep a VERY WET RAG on your paintwork when working with it..... If, HORRORS!.. it gets on the paintwork, wash it off with water,  INSTANTLY...that means RIGHT NOW!   ALWAYS have a WET RAG instantly available when using brake fluid!  NEVER use DOT 5 silicone fluid in your BMW braking system...NEVER!  DOT5 silicone fluid does not absorb moisture, allows moisture to condense into droplets in your braking system and thereby probably rotting it out faster; and, it can, in freezing weather, FREEZE the brakes!.   Silicon fluids are not really compatible with the rubber parts in your bike's braking system (some may be compatible, depending on when manufactured).   There are premium DOT4 fluids; and, confusingly, a 5.1 that is NOT silicone based;...these generally have even higher boiling points (Castrol for instance)....that are just fine, but the RACE types MUST be changed AT LEAST yearly.  I recommend inexpensive DOT3 for most folks, with DOT4 for those who are hard on the brakes.   It is entirely possible that some BMW systems ARE compatible with DOT5 silicone fluid, but BMW says NOT to use them.  Some have used them for long periods of time, successfully.  The big problem is that SOME brake rubber parts are NOT compatible, AND, it is near impossible to clean the old DOT3 or DOT4 out, without a total rebuild. SO,  I HIGHLY recommend AGAINST DOT5 silicone fluid....which have almost no advantages for airheads.....(it is thinner, so maybe easier to bleed on an opened system) (but tends to get tiny bubbles, defeating that idea)....and won't absorb water...but water gets inside from various means, and forms globules, and corrodes the parts!   At very elevated temperatures, totally possible in our airheads brake parts, it gets compressible!..a BAD thing.

DOT3 and DOT4 and DOT 5.1 Brake fluid need yearly changing, as they attracts moisture, right through the non-leaking lines, caliper seals, screw holes at the covers, etc. Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out. Best to use a fresh 8 ounce can each time.  If you do this, you are UNlikely to EVER have to replace the master cylinder or calipers.   If you DO open a system, NEVER EVER use anything but brake fluid in cleaning.

Kerosene and Stoddart solvent, paint thinner, etc: good cleanup and parts solvents, relatively low fire hazard.  NOT to be considered as an evaporating solvent for cleaning surfaces that need sealants applied to clean surfaces, etc. 

Berryman B-12 Chemtool, in their particular version called "Carburetor and Choke Cleaner": The BEST spray stuff I've found for cleaning carburetor and carb parts.  Still surprised the various controlling agencies have not outlawed this great stuff.  Keep it away from plastics and paint!   Next best thing to a formal carb cleaning machine. Also nice to use on those outside carb stains now & then. Many other brands of cleaners that I have tested are nowhere near as strong as this one.   Sooner or later, this stuff will be outlawed, or re-formulated.  Be sure your can says, amongst its other ingredients, that it has acetone and MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone) in it. 

Aluminum door and window frame cleaners (hardware store item):   Clean the outside of your aluminum wheels, engine, carbs, etc...any aluminum or magnesium...with solvents, and detergents, washing well...and water...then, while still wet, apply this stuff, but do NOT let it dry.  If it starts to dry too early, use more.  Hose off.   Keep it off your skin.

Glycerin: BMW used to recommend using this, and then a bit of talcum powder, on your fairing pieces rubber molding separators and some other rubber items.  Good, but other products, like silicones such as Black Magic, are also available.  Don't even think about products like these for your tires.  

REAL tire lube and REAL tire talc: MUCH better than most substitutes. REAL tire talc has NO oils. Purchase tire lube and dilute per instructions and put about 6 ounces or so in a flip top 8 ounce plastic bottle.  If you use tubes on your motorcycle, carry both diluted lube and talc with you, just the lube for tubeless owners.  Yes, it IS true that 'personal lubricants', water based, work OK.

Condoms: useful, with some sort of glue, as an emergency sealant for a ripped/torn carburetor diaphragm.  I don't know what type of glue to use, since I have other uses for condoms, and never have used them for carb repairs, since I never let my carbs go over 60,000 between changing diaphragms.

Radio Shack electrical contact cleaner: Use sparingly, perhaps on a Q-tip, sometimes spray. OK for cleaning electrical contacts and keeping them operating longer. If the contacts are REALLY grungy you may well want to use a stronger cleaner first. Finally coating with the clear silicone grease is good. There are much better contact treatment products, rather pricey, Caig brand is the very best....and was described earlier on this page.   When using any type of electrical contact cleaner, mechanical abrasive cleaning is done first if at all possible.  I do NOT use mechanical sandpaper methods if the contacts are gold-flashed. I use an old-fashioned typewriter cleaner 'pencil'...the abrasive is plenty strong, use sparingly, on other types.   Regular lead pencil red eraser works good on plated pins, and is safe.

NCP2: This is goop in a tube that STOPS corrosion at the positive (+)  battery terminal. I feel this is a necessity, and even nice on the sealed batteries...and should be applied to just cleaned and shiny tight connections at the + terminal, and forced up into the + electric cable for half an inch or so.  VASELINE will do OK.   SOME folks use silicone grease.  Apply the goop AFTER the wires and nuts and bolts and washers are assembled and tightened.  You DID have those parts clean and shiny BEFORE assembly???

WD40: Heavily promoted, but I dislike this product. It tends to gum up eventually.  Some find it very useful for softening labels for removal, removing dead bug splats, etc.

Home rubbing alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, any strength, home type or stronger drug-store special type:  fairly mild cleaning agent, but keep off your plastic stuff like taillight lenses, windshield, etc.   Seldom ever used.   Some folks DO use it on their windshields just prior to putting some sort of rally sticker in place.  Probably OK, but a FEW types of plastics dislike it.   Don't have it in contact with plastic very long.

Duct Tape:   Instead of carrying a small bit of a roll of this in your bike's tool tray, consider a small roll of the better Radiator Repair Tape.  There are glass fiber reinforced Duct tapes and Radiator Repair tapes.
 

WARNING!    This is a VERY important caution....never, EVER, EVER, heat Brake Cleaner itself or any other chlorinated hydrocarbon.   The reason is that high heat may create the intensely serious poisonous substance called PHOSGENE.   Bad things have happened when someone sprays such solvents on a part, and then uses a torch flame on the parts.   This means that you must NOT clean brake parts with brake cleaner and while still wet, use a torch to burn up deposits.

Discussion Area: 
This is an area for somewhat disjointed ramblings.

****A discussion of various methods of 'locking' screws, bolts, etc., is located in the HARDWARE article.    You probably will find it rather interesting.

NOTE:  In January of 1983, BMW came out with Service Information Bulletin 00 029 83 (2068) covering adhesives and sealants for use on BMW motorcycles.  This bulletin is somewhat out of date, but still useful. It describes various types of products, and listed where these products are used on our motorcycles.   I will duplicate the information below, with some personal notes in BLUE:
1.  Products described:
Loctite 242, medium-firm thread retainer, color blue.    This is a controlled lubricity product, very useful.
Loctite 272, high-strength keeper and retainer, green.   This is now RED in color, and fast setting, and has a fairly high temperature rating.   It will NOT release without heat...sometimes a LOT of heat.
Loctite 495 Super Bonder, transparent.     This is sort-of like Crazy Glue.
Loctite 515 Surface sealing, color green.    This is now PURPLE in color, and is a gasket-eliminator product, which has a characteristic of remaining flexible.
Loctite RC/601 and RC860:   these are obsolete joint seal products, originally green in color.

Places these products are used:

Loctite 242, blue:   Shouldered nut retaining the coupling hub at the pinion in rear wheel drive, to secure the nut.  BMW also said to use it at the lower part of the air cleaner at engine and gearbox, and under the bolt contact face to prevent air (and gearbox oil) leakage.  I say NOT TO use there, only at that shouldered nut, and to use Permatex non-permanent Form-a-Gasket at the 13 mm vertical bolt in roughly the center of the airbox.   Other OK places to use 242 are the 2 stud bolts in the aluminum for the timing chain cover; the M8 screw plug at the front and 2 M 12 x 1 screw plugs at side and rear of engine block to seal oilways (or use RED); the INNER, IN ENGINE pipe threads in the center of the oil canister if the pipe comes loose (I use RED); the 3 x 8 fillister head screw at the breather to secure the diaphragm spring (those models with such) and baffle plate to breather valve body; the 4 M  8 x 18 hex bolts for the oil pump cover; and, lastly, the 2 hex bolts for the oil pickup dome on the engine block.

Loctite 272, red:   Stud bolts in the aluminum, in the rear wheel drive for attaching to the swing arm; spring strut mounting lug to the damper piston rod (rear shock stud to upper retainer); and, finally, the pivot pin for the gear shift pedal at the footrest (frankly, I do NOT use it there).  Probably OK, or #271 or #2701, for Paralever pins threads and locknut.  Frankly, I do NOT use it, myself, on my own Paralever pins and locknut.  I find it WAY too strong.  I use a small amount of BLUE Loctite.  YOU use what YOU consider safe for those Paralever parts. 

Loctite 495:  BMW said to use it on knee pads on tanks and twistgrips.   A later bulletin (32-003-85, 2159) says to use Loctite 496.  Frankly, most folks simply use hairspray to install twistgrip rubber.

Note the following:   BMW never identified where to use Loctite RC/601.  BMW said to use Loctite RC/860 at ONE place.  Note the reasoning!     BMW said to use this joint seal compound at the "flange joint between rear-wheel swinging arm and universal joint housing on R80G/S (absolutely essential as an additional safeguard against twisting in this joint, and to seal the joint face)".      I am not convinced.

Revisions: 

12/14/2006:  incorporate all previous revisions; update information on oils and greases in line with the latest information; edit entire article and release
01/10/2007: add more information here and there.  Add fork oils viscosity.
01/25/2007:  rework item #12 with latest information
01/16/2008:  combine from some of 52B, and renumber from 73A to 73
03/14/2008:  update information on 270, 271, 2701, and a few clarifications elsewhere's
06/25/2008:  Revise #4; minor editing elsewhere's
09/14/2008:  Revise entire article, mostly to add additional information. 
09/26/2008:  Add info on Honda moly grease part number from CAR dealerships.
06/29/2009:  minor updates, combining some things that were redundantly repeated, clarifying some details here and there.
01/25/2010:  Add hyperlink for anti-seize
08/06/2010:  Add #19 and re-number
12/16/2010:  Phosgene warning
10/01/2011:  Links to hardware article regarding locking methods
10/13/2011:  Slight updates for clarity
11/16/2011:  Clear up the Honda, Moly, Guard-Dog, and similar areas.

©  copyright 2011, R. Fleischer

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