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EML sidecars
Photos, technical information; repairs.
Early advertising brochure. 
Background on EZS, etc.
Step by step how-to suspension parts overhaul.
Technical information on the early GT2 (two front
hinges) & late model GT2 (single front hinge).
Many technical items may be correct for earlier
models such as Tour-T, ETC.

This article contains some large scans/photos. 
Allow time to load if you are on a slow connection.
Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
sidecar section #SC8

This is a scan of all 4 pages of an old EML brochure that includes
photos of the single front hinge GT2, Midi, Tour, Mini, GT3E, &
Speedline.  The rear page of this brochure has specifications for
all those, & GTE & GT3.


The GT2 and GT3 were discontinued ~1990

Who is EML?...AND......what about EZS? 

EML  is  E.ML   
Even though the sales brochure says E.M.L.
Note the period after the E in E.ML.    The letters EML stand for Eigen
MakeLij, which means "own making" or "home-made"....and actually refers
to their off road sidecars.

E.ML was founded by Hennie Winkelhuis...references to him, mostly in
Dutch, can be found by a Google search on the Internet...he was heavily
involved in racing, W-Tec, quads, Paris Dakar, etc.   
He was born in 1948 & died in May 2007.  

E.ML Engineering Holland BV:
Near as I can tell, their original address was 20 Magnolia Street.
They moved to:
Handlelsweg2; NL-7161 BV Neede           (pronounced NAYDA)
The Netherlands.
 +31-0-545-292-154; fax +31-0-545-292-205.   
EML is not always very responsive with E-mails, but you can try   

EML has had major financial problems over the years.....I have heard of
bankruptcy's, etc.  
I don't know the present status as it may change at any time.

Since the above was written, EML as such no longer exists,
but is now WTech. The situation for older EML parts is
unclear.  I have been told EML & W-Tech are the same, from
the EML distributor in the USA.

Communications were made in 2015.... with:
Remco Winkelhuis  with E-mail to:  If contacting him,
try to use Dutch, rather than English....(this is not yet confirmed)
Remco is likely related to E.ML founder Hennie, I do
not know.  Al Olme told  me that W-TEC is making sidecars and
trikes under the EML name....this was 04/13/2015.

Who is EZS?
EZS is another manufacturer of quality sidecars & mounts, ETC.
The letters EZS stand for Engbers Zijspan Service.  They are located
in Zelhem, Holland.   Albert Engbers "IS"...well "WAS"  EZS.....the
founder, the owner, the designer, and the constructor.  In 2008 he
passed EZS to his son, Dave Engbers. 

These two manufacturer's, EML and EZS, are less than 30 miles apart,
but have no ties.  

EML & EZS both made a very considerable part of their sidecars &
associated parts for the tugs... such as the suspension parts,
subframes, sidecar tubes, suspensions, etc..., and made
hundreds of sidecars a year in the past. 

There is an EML sidecar group:

Snowbum is a Member, Moderator, and Participant.

There is a database being developed, ever so slowly on that
website, for parts, etc.

EML has a representative in the USA, called Eurowing.   They are in
Hialeah, Florida, website link is below.   They may be able to provide
SOME parts for the older models.  My experience with Eurowing
was LOUSY,  almost completely un-cooperative, downright
lying about parts availability & ordering of same, saying things
are enroute when they never had any intention of even trying
to order parts.   Just terrible non-service.    In all my years of
dealing with a lot of companies in the motorcycle industry, they,
maybe, were the worst.

Bottom of that linked page has phone numbers, etc. Good Luck. 
Let me know if you manage to buy ANY PARTS for an EML, etc.

In early April of 2013, on a whim, I decided to, AGAIN, contact
Eurowing, after several years previously having tried to get parts
...this time to see if EML sidecar parts were available.  This is
where the message was sent-to, and who initially replied to me:

Lydia Pearce
2800 W 84 Street Bay 1
Hialeah,Florida 33018
ph: 786-452-0641

The final message from them TO ME was 7 April 2013.  Note
the name Sali:

""W-Tec or EML  is the same company , will forward your request to our
factory, as soon as we have a reply will let you know .      
Regards    Sali  EurowingUSA""

There was NEVER any further contact by Eurowing, in ANY manner,
directly to ME.

FURTHER Update 2015:
  Al Olme has been in
contact with Eurowing & has received parts! 

Snowbum says: I got a new disc (strictly for a spare,
mine was still OK) for the disc brake of my GT2,
via Al's order to EuroWing.  Perhaps they have
gotten the message from EML that they need to
be more business-like?? 
MORE when I have more!

The meat of this article begins here:
I sold my 1983 R100RT-Ural Sidecar rig quite some years ago;
and purchased what is now my own personal sidecar rig, which
I intend to keep until too old to drive it.  This
rig is the
single-front-hinge GT2 model; it is pulled by an early 1993 model
(produced June 1992) BMW K1100LT.  I have made a lot of
modifications/changes.  The rig used to be Al Olme's.

If you look at the brochure pages at the beginning of this article,
you will find dimensions, weight, etc. for the EML sidecar.  I have
NOT confirmed the empty weight of the entire sidecar by itself because
I never weighed mine separately.  EML published that in the
brochure as 123kg, which is 271 pounds. 

I have measured my GT2 for weight at the tire-to-surface point.  The
tire was a Nankang N-803 model, about 85% worn, in size 135R15.  
The wheel was standard as were suspension parts.  NOTE that
weight on a sidecar wheel will somewhat depend on the distance the
sidecar wheel is from the centerline of the tug.  For my rig, the
center-line of the tug rear tire to the center-line of the sidecar tire,
as if there was no wheel lead, is 53-1/2". 
For all weight measurements
the sidecar had ~10 pounds of brackets for the seat, etc. It was
attached to my tug & the sidecar had approximately 23 pounds of
weight (tools, water, etc.) in the sidecar trunk, most of that 23 pounds
was against the aft wall of the trunk.  The sidecar interior, including
trunk, has heavy industrial/hotel carpeting, perhaps a total of 25
pounds.   The windshield is a slightly width shortened full type; the
full heavy duty top I made, with tall roll bar, was on the sidecar. 
I measured, on an accurate scale, the weight the tire produced
towards the ground (actually, 2.5" above ground due to scale
thickness).  It was 249 pounds.  If the scale height did not exist,
the weight would be VERY SLIGHTLY higher.  For a second test
I had a passenger of 130 pounds sitting in the chair, centered in
the chair seat.   The result was 334 pounds. All these results were
as expected. 

The wheel lead I use is 13-1/4".

Just below is a series of photos of a very early EML sidecar (this
is NOT my sidecar)
, and of the brake caliper & brake pads used for
it.   This brake is the Grimeca; pads/parts are available from Michael
"Mercury" Morse, at  You can also
contact the manufacturer, for information:

NOTE the LAMP on the SIDE of the BODY TOWARDS the front: 
Al Olme noted that some early EML sidecars (80's & earlier?) had that
ugly-looking front lamp unit, a combination marker & amber turn signal...
bolted to the outside of the sidecar,... it protruded out as shown. 
says that it was made by Hella, still available as 2 per box, under part
003014251, is not stocked in the USA, orderable from P.U.M.A.   Contact
"Paul" at (800)-354-3552.  
  An internet search mind find other sources?


Note the differences between the EML marked and Grimeca marked calipers.


TWO photos of an early GT2 (TWO front hinges)
This EML sidecar opens without the front cover
purposely being on an angle as it is raised.


Everything from this point is of my
own later model ONE hinge GT2

This stock EML hinge is purposely designed
so the front cover swings slightly away from the
motorcycle.  A close look at the hinge will show
that its central pin is NOT at 90 to the sidecar
body, thus the opened front cover swings away
from the motorcycle.


The photo below shows the quite weatherproof top
I built from scratch.  The windows are removable
...or, can be rolled up.   There is a stiffening metal
flat thin bar going fore-aft, centered at the top, to
keep the canvas top from striking the head of the
passenger as speed increases (pressure created
by oncoming wind is downwards on the top). I
probably way over-designed and overbuilt the top.
Very heavy best of the best canvas and fittings,
numerous stress-relieving joints/reinforcements.
The top is likely even more over-built on how the
bottom area is Velcro'd over TWO lengths of
the bottom flap (that you cannot see in this photo),
that wraps under & onto the fiberglass tub.   I
wanted this top waterproof, & UNable to be
blown off at any speed/wind condition.  There
is also a FORWARD flap, with snaps, at this
REAR area.  The side windows have zippers &
are arranged so the windows can be
rolled-upwards if one wants more ventilation, &
there is a strap and snaps built into the top to
keep the windows rolled-up as desired.  These
side-curtains/windows are removable if one so
desires. Much thought went into what type of
material to use for the type of material for the
top, and, for its waterproofing. I also wished to
add to the top material's own inherent water-
proofing. I consulted boat top makers, ETC.
I decided on "Starbrite Waterproofing with
PTEF"....which is for tents, boat tops, boat
covers, outdoor clothing, etc.  It is approved
for Sunbrella, fabric blends, leather, canvas,
and Nylon.  It does not change fabric
breathability nor color. It also allows cleansing
off bird droppings nicely. Use exactly per the
container! The top material is the highest
grade of a premium boat cover material.  
The amount of work that went into this top
was excessive...but it has certainly held up
& performed well, & still looks almost like the
day I finished it, many years ago.  It
remains waterproof in a downpour.

Separate article with other views of this top
........and of other folk's EML tops:

NOTE!.....the gas strut for the trunk on my rig is a common 4420, no brand on it, only the following numbers:  
4420   2669.  I did a quick check on the internet, as that is a common gas strut unit, and here is the link to a similar product, but do check every specification....which is on the page...the unit is made in the USA.  Not expensive.

Measured length, fully closed (removed from the trunk):_____________inches.

Measured length, completely extended: ~11-7/8" between mounting centers.

Other measurements:__________________.

NOTE!.....the gas strut for the front lift lid is a common 4418, no brand on it, only the following numbers:
4418   2569.   When fully extended it is 17" between mounting centers; when lid is fully closed the shock absorber has not reached its minimum closed length.  The in-use closed length is 14-1/2".  I did some measuring and one could easily use a slightly longer gas strut, and the front lid would be more verticle when opened.  Probably up to 3" longer.
The maximum body diameter is 0.60".
This one is probably also available from the above, or one close to it.
Here are photos of its installation in my GT2.   Note that the front fastener for the gas strut was welded to the cross tube. Note that the company has all sorts of various ball ends, etc., available.



Photos of my SIDECAR wheel:

Tires are easily available.  I have recently
been using the Coker Tire Company. Presently
I am using a 135R15 Firestone F560 tire on
the sidecar wheel. It came from Coker, was
very freshly made.  It replaced a well-worn
Nankang N-803 of the same size, that was on
the sidecar when I purchased it.  Coker owns
the rights and moulds for these Firestone tires,
and others.

In the BELOW photo, this is the EZS rim used
on my K1100LT tugNote the gradual slope
on one side of the inside of the rim.

The original tires on the tug, when I purchased
the sidecar rig, were Firestone F590  165-70
R14, which are hard to find in the USA.  I found
one, & replaced the rear tire once.  I am presently
using a Mastercraft P175-70 A/S-IV on the tug
rear, which has worked well for me. That size MAY
not easily fit the front (?), due to the limited
clearance between front fender & tire. I MAY
eventually probably try the same tire/size for the
front; and, if need-be, modify the fender bracketry. 
For my next tire, however, I am going to try a
165-70 R14 tires, M + S, from China.

For those Canadians who do not want to, or
cannot deal with Coker, I have been told that
Firestone F560 tubeless blackwall radial tires
are available in Canada:
Sylmar Auto Ville (
661 Stevens Street
Hawkesbury, Ontario
K6A 3K5

















This is a photo showing where the sidecar AXLE fits.

I am not fond of how EML designed the inner wheel hub
fitment. I think it too narrow, for instance; but if the
seal is installed correctly, it works OK...but re-greasing
could be done at longer intervals with a better sealing
surface (wider would help, as would a flange of some
sort).   I have not yet made the decision to modify for
such.  For the stock setup, I suggest using a 7mm
THICKNESS seal.  More on the seals, etc., later herein.

The entire suspension is mounted to the EML frame,
via THREE bolts.
 These 10 mm bolts are grade 10.9
which is appropriate. Note that standard torque for
a 10.9 grade 10 mm bolt is 53 foot-pounds.  
The bolt
threads are 1.5 mm pitch, the length is 70 mm.  Use Nyloc
or similar nuts on all three bolts. The 3 holes in the welded
'tubes' on the EML frame fit these 10 mm bolts, but the
heavy metal bracket that contains the pivot, etc., has ~12 mm
   That means, depending on the precision with
which EML did this bracket & frame tubes, there may
be some TOE-IN adjustment available by loosening
these 3 bolts, and moving the bracket slightly.
one might be able to adjust toe-in at the suspension itself,
and not just by the chair-to-tug fastenings/struts.  

I set my toe-in to between 5/16" to 3/8", with the rider on the
seat, & no sidecar passenger.   If you have loosened or
removed the three-bolt mount, be sure to check the
toe-in, before final tightening.
  I found the in-board bolt
installed from the TOP, which means to remove the
assembly, one needed to remove the tub!  I cut the bolt &
installed a new one from the bottom.  Yes, that is theoretically
not quite as safe.   The toe-in for this type of sidecar rig,
with car tires, should be, in MY opinion, in the neighborhood
of 1/4 to 1 inch. I suggest that if you are beginning the
alignment setup, with no prior history, you use 1/2" initially.

Supposedly the axle is non-concentric & thus adjustable,
for toe-in.  I suggest you don't do it that way, but it is your
choice, IF...IF...yours is eccentric.

The pivot shaft (& pivot bearing) will probably frustrate you,
so proceed slowly & methodically.  By the time you try to
remove the shaft from the bearing, it may be rusted &
difficult to remove.  Soak in a penetrating solvent such as
PB Blaster or Kroil, or, better yet, 50-50 mixture of ATF
& acetone
, for a day or three (add some of the mixture now
& then); use a very sturdy puller...the end of the shaft has a
nice little hole for your puller center bolt.  The pivot contains
a sealed two-row ball bearing, probably FAG type 529891C. 
This bearing is probably cataloged as 60 mm, but is likely
60.03 mm in diameter. I installed a Federal Mogul (Timken or
SKF) equivalent, #513116.  I think there are several
equivalents, including a brand seldom seen in the USA,
Breda CR1863.    EML has fitted this bearing with, in my
estimation, too tight a fit into the pivot housing, requiring a
quite powerful hydraulic press, so be very sure the pivot
cavity is quite well cleaned & smooth, etc., before installing
a new bearing.   
Chamfer the pivot entrance edge to accept the bearing,
which MUST be installed SQUARELY to the pivot.
bearing is pressed into the pivot area from one side; so must
be removed to one side. The bearing will almost surely require
the mentioned strong hydraulic press to remove, but a new
one can be installed in a large bench vise; be VERY careful
to begin that SQUARELY! Use oil, & use soft square jaws
on the vise. Before the new bearing is fully home; again
clean the last area it will be pressed into, and use the
old bearing shell as the driver for that last little bit. 


If you loosen the cotter key & then loosen that castle nut,
this will relieve pressure on the 30 mm shaft going through
the pivot area.  You then will be UNable to retighten it if
yours was like mine, as the body of the sidecar is in the way
of getting a large allen wrench into the inside recess of this will then have to remove the entire suspension
setup.  Because of this I suggest NOT loosening the castle
nut unless your pivot bearing is bad.
 I also suggest not trying
to defeat the design by drilling and adding a couple of roll pins, NOR,
welding.    The bearing was used on a number of cars including old
Volvo's; Fiat's, and Yugo's, ETC. 

The 30 mm shaft may be somewhat corroded, so clean it up quite
well.   It is a MILD press-fit into the pivot bearing.  There is a washer
on the inside to take up the space of the pivot cavity inner end wall
thickness.  There was a funny washer on the outside of mine...see
the plate notation in the photo below.  You do need some sort of flat
washer here.  I had no idea why the tang of that washer had a small
drilled & threaded hole; but have now been told that the brake line
had some sort of secure clamp fitting there. Was not on mine, & I
see no reason for its use for the brake line IF USING THE TYPE OF
FOR MY LINE'S ROUTING. The nut need not be grossly tight, this is
not some sort of preload adjustment, so it should be tightened
reasonably, then a NEW cotter key installed.

In the above photo, my stock EML-supplied caliper is a
Brembo type F05.  It is what is called a RIGHT caliper,
as opposed to a LEFT caliper.
  If mine was rotated &
reversed, it would look like the RIGHT photo below.
In the above photo, due to the closeness of the inside of the
15" EML wheel, the caliper bleeder valve has been ground
down shorter.  That makes it unusable for fitting a hose for
proper yearly bleeding, so a proper bleeder valve is inserted in
place of that one, when bleeding this brake.  I have NOT had
problems by just installing a proper long bleeder valve,
bleeding, & then, NOT touching the brake pedal,
unfastening that valve & reinstalling the shortened one. 
Very little fluid flows out during that quick procedure...
and I have NOT had problems.

The bleeder valve is a standard 6 mm threaded type but
with 8 mm hex.
  I have thought about looking into modifying
the disc and caliper mounting or reversing the caliper or
changing it or modifying the threaded holes.  It seems like a
waste of labor and possibly parts, so have not done anything,
I have obtained a short version of a bleeder valve, which
I am going to try, perhaps modify (I got TWO just for
this) to see if that will work...on my next bleeding.

SOME Grimeca calipers and pads are interchangeable
with Brembo,  but there is no problem finding Brembo
parts, from such as

Left F08 caliper    "Right" F08 caliper    

Note that these are F08 caliper photos, as I did not
have similar good photos for the actual F05 caliper
on the sidecar.  F08 & F05 look similar to each other,
the F08 being bigger.  Be SURE to read onwards a
few paragraphs, about the left, right, etc....


Calipers, Pads and Rebuilt Kits:

As noted, the Brembo caliper on my GT2 is Brembo
model F05, which has 94 mm mounting centers.  Mine
has a casting number on it:   20.2677.00.  Mine has a
model number stamped on the outer face:  19C7

This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons; is the same
as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65, V50;  etc. 
This model caliper was very popular & was used on
many vehicles.  The caliper is available in both Right &
Left hand versions, so be SURE... if you replace an
entire caliper...that you get the correct one.  As noted above,
the one in my EML is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type.  
Photos of calipers on the Internet may be confusing, if the
view is from the back-side, instead of the front-side; as
the EML mounting is typically reversed from Internet photos. 
The F08 photos above are from the front-side. 
The F08 in
the photo is, as noted, almost identical LOOKING to the F05,
but has 108 mm mounting centers & 38 mm opposed pistons.

If you are going to purchase a caliper, have it next to the
photos....or, better yet, photograph it for
Be sure to get the proper handed one that matches yours! 
many have 'Left & Right' confuse them.

The casting number is not necessarily the same number
as the factory caliper number.  As an example of this, the
factory numbers for a right hand standard F05 is 20.2676.40;
for the left hand standard it is 20.2676.41.  The factory also
has a Gold Line, using the 10.3677.xx numbers, & there is a
special LH narrow type, that uses a thin 3.8 mm disc thickness,
as 20.4366.21.  So, be careful with what you order.  A good
brake supply specialist knows the details.
Michael Morse is a good source of information...and parts:  (209) 533-4346

The seal & rebuild kit for the F05 caliper is widely available,
it is Brembo 120.2799.10.
   Brembo seals are NOT compatible
with silicone fluids!  Use DOT3 or DOT 4, ONLY.  
calipers have always used hydraulic line fitting threads of
1.0 x 10 mm.   Do not mistake my words here for the
bleeder valve, which is smaller on mine.

Pads:   Really good C.O.F. (Coefficient Of Friction) organic pads
are the Ferodo 'Platinum' pads...these are especially good with
cast iron rotors, such as EML used.

Unconfirmed by me is that pads may be for REAR brake for above
Guzzi models & others.  However, pads that were reported to fit
& work OK were identified as being marked (by all these numbers)
on the package:   KBA61084   400  Platinum   DP601   FA47.      
Package also seemed to indicate Ferodo FD3207P   4541029   
I think that the package numbering might have been too difficult
to read, and the real number was FDB207P    the P standing for
the "Platinum" pads.  F05 pads are available in numerous
formulations.  You want one that is compatible with YOUR disc,
which is probably cast iron like mine was.

From another source, supposedly at EML, came Ferodo numbers 
FD7266 (might be 072686)...but might not be for this GT2 model.  I
can't find those numbers.   Nor can I confirm the Ferodo number
D346GG nor Brembo 07.2686.13; which might be for an earlier model
caliper??...or the F05???  More research needed here.

NOTES:   for most folks, the C.O.F. & amount of braking on a sidecar
can be widely different without problems.    For those who ride
vigorously/spiritedly, & use the sidecar brake by itself for turning;
or, have problems stopping in a straight line, it is more important.    
Sidecar conversions can have widely differing rear & front braking
systems on the tug & sidecar.  EML uses hydraulic brakes.  Some
folks plumb the sidecar brake INTO the tug system, front or rear or
combined; or, have a separate pedal, often to a MC that couples only
to the EML disc caliper.  Because there are such widely differing
systems, including some with ABS or linked, etc., I am hesitant to
say to "only" use the Ferodo Platinum....BUT...
I think that it WOULD
BE BEST to use that pad, & if braking is TOO MUCH on the sidecar,
& cannot be adjusted lower by whatever other means, then a
modification to the pads is easy to do & is likely to be effective.   
For most of you, I doubt you will have any problems & will NOT
need to modify the pads.


Master Cylinders:

NOTE:   My tug is a BMW K1100LT, which, as delivered from BMW, comes
with a 12 mm Magura-made rear brake Master Cylinder.  That MC is too
small in bore (piston size) for proper brake pedal movement when the
rear braking system is plumbed into the EML disc brake.   The Magura MC
was, therefore, changed to 16 mm.   EML did this, as well as EZS.   I had
a rather difficult time finding out about the Magura details, so I thought
I'd list them here:

NOTE that EML has their OWN master cylinders, & what you see here is
NOT necessarily what is on YOUR sidecar rig.

Keep in mind that the information that follows is for MY rig.

NOTE:  if re-sleeving a corroded MC, you might consider finding
appropriate parts or different MC, and trying for 14 mm, not 16mm...I think
14 mm would be 'ideal'.  This note does NOT apply to my bike!

Magura part number for the MC is 0131411.  It is also called a 700.33.    Magura
no longer makes the 0231410, also called 700.32 (16 mm-L). The only difference
is, AFAIK, the angle of the inlet for the reservoir.  The 16 mm Magura was used
not only by EML & EZS, but by KTM on their motorcycles.   For all practical
purposes these master cylinders are nearly identical.   Either can be made to fit.

Master Cylinders from Magura are made in three piston sizes:  12 mm, the 700.4,
probably what BMW used originally; 13 mm, the 700.12, BLACK, as used on the
K100 (It is possible that this size MIGHT work nicely, with added braking, on an
EML sidecar, but I have not tested that theory)
; and the 16 mm 700.33 or 700.32
which is silver colored.   Repair kits for any of them are available from Magura. 
For all these MC, the hydraulic line threads are M10 x 1.   For all these MC,
Magura says the 'hub' is 12 mm, and the stroke is 12 mm.   I measured the
mounting centers of mine at 45 mm.  

Below are two photos; one of the MC; the other is the extension pin that fits
between the MC piston & the foot pedal rounded tip special screw.  In inspecting
the sidecar rig after it was delivered to me, I found I had problems with my MC.  I
replaced it.  The old extension piece was buggered, as was the BMW foot pedal
rounded tip special screw, 34-31-1-451-885.   I still have no part number for the
extension piece as in the is not, per Magura USA, a standard part from
them.  However, Magura of Germany says that the part is in the rebuild kits. 
BMW does not list the extension pin separately, but its fiche shows that it is very
likely part of the rebuild kit.    The below photo has notes on it as I sent the photo
to someone for help in identifying that extension piece.   

When someone replaces a BMW master cylinder, they often just throw
away that extension piece, as the new MC comes with one.   See your
friendly BMW dealership, they may be able to give you the extension
piece if you need one, from their old box of trash parts.   I obtained some
worn-out stock 12 mm BMW rear Magura cylinders.  These had the
extension piece that is in the photo, below.   They DO come with the
cylinder from BMW. 

The 12 mm cylinder has a smaller bore INSIDE the piston where this
extension piece fits.   It will work, but is not as nice as if a large
diameter extension piece was available....and, so far, that is likely to be
found ONLY in the Magura 16 mm repair kit!...BUT:
See the larger photo below, and the "O-ring...why?", in red that I put
on the photo.  I think it MAYBE was used so the extension pin would
properly fit & be captive in the BMW 12 mm piston diameter MC.   So
far, no proof that the Magura 16 mm rebuild kit comes with a larger
extension piece.














Details of hub & suspension; information on replacing
wheel bearings & seals  (information on overhauling
the shock/spring unit is later in this article):


As you can see from the photos, the brake disc mounts
to the hub using 8 bolts.  The outside diameter of my disc
measured 198 to 200 mm, and the EML specification sheet
says 200 mm, so that is fine, and looking at where the
caliper fits with its pads sweeping the disc area, the disc
could be OK at 7-3/4" diameter (197 mm).  My old disc is
marked 0.18", whatever that REALLY means. The disc
thickness, used condition, was 0.175", which is 4.445 mm. 
I suspected they were 4.5 mm when new; a standard size
for many discs used on bikes; but it appears that new they
are 5.0 mm, because I have obtained a brand-new disc
from EML, the brand-new disc thickness: 
Pads area:  0.198"; black hub area 0.202"

Inner seal is 32 x 52 x 7 mm; do not use 6 mm, see next
section for why.   Seal numbers could be Timken TC12507
or 702901.  Outer seal is 30 x 52 x 7 mm.  Seal numbers
could be Timken 702880, National S-11510, etc.
Bearings I installed are both 6205-C3.    The particular
bearings I used were made by SKF, and were 6205-2RSJEM,
in C-3 grade.   Any QUALITY 6205-C3 bearing can be used. 
Do NOT use bearings from China, Russia, etc.   Whether you
use an open or sealed bearing is up to you.

NOTE:  When I removed the old bearings, I found the inner
bearing to be 6205-2RS1/C  HT51.  This is a sealed type.  
I found the outer (wheel side) bearing to be 6205-2Z/C HT51.

Wheel hub bearings & seals:

NOTE:  EML wheel bearings and seals are notorious for failing
...and this is due to lack of maintenance and because they are
not really well sealed.  If you let the bearing go too long between
servicing, your eventual cost will be $$$.  I suggest 18,000 mile
intervals; and somewhat sooner if you drive a lot on very wet
roads, or very dirty road areas.   If you clean/lube your wheel
bearings & install fresh seals, properly, you probably will never
have to replace the bearings.

Remove the wheel/tire (btw, I never tighten beyond 50 Nm when installing). 
Remove the two 13 mm allen bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. 
Lift off the caliper from the disc & set the caliper slightly to the rear, being
careful not to kink the hose. Do NOT operate the brake pedal or lever, as
case may be, whilst the caliper is out of the disc.  If you worry about this,
insert something into the caliper between the pads.

Remove the cotter key at the tub side of the axle at the castellated nut. Put 
a heavy box-end wrench on the 1-1/4th inch castellated nut (actual size
seems to be 31.75 mm, so you could also try a 31 or 32 mm wrench).  
Using a large adjustable wrench (or 24 mm or 15/16" open end wrench) on
the axle double-D flatted area, unscrew the axle/nut.  If the assembly is
extremely tight, you might have problems gaining proper leverage, in
which case you might consider having the inside wrench rest on the rear
suspension area, as a support-stop.   With the axle out, you can now
remove the hub/disc assembly.   

Remove the old seals, using a wood support & broad screwdriver.  AVOID
nicking/scraping the hub bore when doing that.   Discard the seals; BUT,
if there is a part number on yours, you might want to write that down for
reference.   Inspect the hub bearing fit entrance area. 

If replacing bearings:
If any metal is proud into the bore, fix that first, so the bearing, which is a
close fit, can be easily removed in the following procedure. 
  Heat the hub
on an electric hot plate.  The hot plate should have a metal covering or
plate, don't use it just with the electric coils showing.  Set the outer, aluminum
flange wheel mounting area DOWN onto the hot plate.  The proper amount
of heat is until a wetted finger sizzles when touched to the top aluminum hub
where the bearing enters.   You can put a dry towel over the unit to help
heating. Using leather or cloth gloves, & if need be a flat end drift & very small
hammer (carefully, to avoid nicking or scraping the bore), push or lightly
hammer the bearings out from the other side; repeat for both.  They might
even fall out.  Don't loose the inner sleeve.

Allow the hub assembly to cool.    Clean the counter-bore very carefully. 
Use rags & evaporating solvents.  Don't leave anything at the sharp lower
corner of the counterbore.   If there is not a very smooth & SMALL radius for
the bearing entry on both sides of the hub assembly, make them so.  Be
SURE the counter-bore & hub bore is clean after this.  Clean the inner sleeve.

Find something, perhaps an old large socket, that is a SLIGHTLY smaller
diameter than the counter-bore, that the hub assembly can rest on, when cooling. 

Chill the new bearings in your freezer.   Reheat the hub, exactly as before.  At
the sizzle temperature of the aluminum hub area where the bearing enters,
using leather or cloth gloves, drop the new bearing into the top hub, squarely.  It
should slide right in without any pressure.  If you do not do this squarely the
bearing will not slide right in.  Keeping the bearing in place with a finger or two
of one hand, turn the hub over, & install the SLEEVE, & then the other bearing. 
Immediately, while the hub is still at sizzle temperature, place the hub with its new
bearings & the sleeve over the old large socket that fits into the counterbore
area & set the entire assembly on a table to cool.   Be sure the top bearing is
seated.   The outer hub should be UP, disc DOWN.  The bearings should have
remained FULLY installed. BE SURE that they are.   Let the hub cool to close to
room temperature, set the hub on the bench, either side up is OK from now on.

If the bearings are OK, & are of the greasable type, force a good quality disc
brake type bearing grease into them.

Installing the seals:
BE SURE you use the CORRECT size seals on the correct side!  The INNER
seal has the 32 mm center. OUTER seal is 30 mm.  Double check yourself
before starting the seal work & during it!  Install the outer seal so that it is flush,
or not more than a tiny bit below flush.

NOTE on the inner seal thickness:
The counterbore depth on the suspension (inside) of the hub is LESS than that
depth at the outer seal.  When you install a 7 mm seal on the inside of the hub,
that seal will be slightly proud of the surface.  For a perfect flat fit, you could use
a 6 mm seal.  HOWEVER, you will probably find that 6 mm seals are not all that
common, AND, you will probably find that the 7 mm seal will put the sealing LIP
in a better position for the suspension seal lip area.  Because of this, I
recommend you use 7 mm seals.

Place fresh grease liberally into a seal's open end.  Install the seal, using an old
socket that is a just a wee bit smaller in diameter than the seal outside diameter.   
Install the seal EVENLY and SQUARELY, open greased end towards the new
  Lubricate the seal lip with grease.  Do the other side with the other seal
in the same manner.   Be very careful not to nick the seal inner lip(s).

The hub is now almost ready to be reinstalled.  If need be, polish, with very very
fine grit sandpaper, the suspension lip; be sure its outer edge is not sharp. If the
lip is gritty, it will wear out the new seal in short order, so clean the suspension lip
& bore area.  Clean up the axle if needed; must be no proud metal; just smooth,
clean, & not too sharp-edged, so things will push together smoothly.  Be sure the
suspension lip is smooth, & greased lightly, and the axle over its length, including
the seal area next to the double D flatted area!

Install the hub & GREASED axle slowly & carefully, to avoid seal damage.  With
no sharp edges, you will be fine.  Install the castellated nut rather tightly; align the
axle whilst doing this, so that the NEW cotter key can be properly installed (remember
that you have to be able to bend one tang of the cotter key back over the axle end
or the nut).  

Reassemble the caliper, etc. to the suspension.  Inspect the caliper pads, caliper
pistons, etc., for dirt before assembling.  DO NOT KINK THE HYDRAULIC HOSE,
not even for an can ruin the tiny thin and hidden inside plastic tubing.


1.  Do NOT press the bearings out, or in, with the WHEEL hub cold.  This is
     STANDARD procedure for alloy hubs.
2.  Don't forget the inner spacer when installing the new bearings. If you do forget
     it is not a big deal, the hub is usable without it.
3.  You can use sealed or non-sealed bearings.  If you use non-sealed bearings,
     be sure they are well packed with a quality non-fibrous wheel bearing grease
     before the seals are installed, with extra grease in the cavity area.
4.  Use grade C3 bearings. Do NOT use tighter tolerance bearings.
Be sure the area of the axle where it fits into the outer seal is smooth. The axle,
     smooth & lightly greased, will pass into the seal without nicking the sealing lip(s).
6.  Be sure that the lipped area of the suspension is smooth.

Shock absorber & Spring unit:

Numbers below (#x and #xx) refer to my below photo of the disassembled unit

Note:  This shock absorber is more sophisticated than it appears at first glance
after disassembly.  It is velocity sensitive, & stiffens differently than you might (??)
expect, in a situation where there may be multiple quick irregularities in the road.

I will describing this shock absorber as having a top & a bottom.   The shock
absorber is installed with the Adjustor (18) slanted DOWNward, so that end is the
"bottom", as I describe things here.  

The steel body of the shock absorber unit is item marked as #16. NOT SHOWN
in the photo is a removable round steel tube located inside that #16 body.  That
steel tube has two small holes at one end, that end faces item #18.  The tube is
approximately 4.1" in length and approximately 1.34" in outside diameter.   When
assembling the shock absorber, it would be a good idea to assemble the steel tube
to the upper components, and then put the upper components into item #18 as one
assembly.  This would avoid a potential problem (which I did not look into) of the
upper components 'hanging-up' on the removable internal steel tube.

The top eye (11) is fitted, as is the bottom eye, with a stiff rubber part that has a
steel center sleeve, & it is via this sleeve that bolts pass through to mount the shock
unit to the sidecar suspension & frame.  The top eye (11) has fitted to it a
hard-chromed (for long wear) steel ROD.  Unless the rod is damaged, there is NO
reason to try to remove it from the top eye (11). 
I have NO idea where one might
obtain a rod.  If damaged, an original rod probably could be ground & re-plated
with hard chrome.

The shock absorber assembly has an owner-adjustment; that is the aluminum
bottom part (18), hereinafter called the Adjustor,  that has the decorative vertical
hand-grooves.  While many motorcycle shock absorber spring units are adjusted
by a hooked spanner wrench, that is not so on this EML shock.  This part is meant
to be adjusted by one's hand....probably easier with the suspension extended,....
that means jacking the main sidecar frame (not suspension), until the wheel is just
barely off the ground.   This item (18) has a rubber O-ring both inside (in a groove
for it, item #1) the lower area of this Adjustor, that serves almost no purpose except
to keep dirt out of the internal threads & to help resist rotation slightly; & a similar
O-ring above it, item #15, same idea.  I believe the threads, as well as these O-rings
& #14 mating surfaces should be lubricated with silicone grease during assembly,
to make the Adjustor work more smoothly with less effort, over long periods of time,
& the silicone grease probably will greatly increase the life of the O-rings. 

The Adjustor (18) has finely pitched internal threads, mating to hidden threads (when
assembled) on the outside of the shock absorber body item 16.  Numerous turns of
this Adjustor can be made.  The adjustment is for preload on the SPRING, to set ride
height for weight being carried.  The Adjustor does NOT adjust the shock absorber
internals.     The Adjustor (18) is internally threaded nearly its entire length, so it can
be adjusted fairly high, as well as quite low.    Item #14 sits just above this Adjustor
(8), and between them is one of the O-rings, item #15.  Item #14 is lightly close
fitting, but movable, on the shock body (16). More about item #14 well below, in more
than one place.

In order to remove the spring, you do PROBABLY DO NOT NEED A SPRING
COMPRESSOR!......the Adjustor (18) can be lowered substantially.  If need be, thumb
pressure on the top area will release the top plate....this Keeper/Top Perch (#12) can
then be removed.  It has a lower lip, so #18 must be rather fully loosened.  When
re-installing #18, I suggest it be adjusted to engage enough item 16 threads so that
the bottom-most area of 18 will properly clear any associated brackets.  NOTE the
flattened area on #18, I believe the factory did that so that the bracketry would not
contact #18, as the suspension moved.  Pay attention to this during installation.

Spring (13):  
    free standing length:   7.75" 
    coils diameter:             0.300" as stock, chrome plated
    outside diameter:        2.325"

Shock absorber over-all length, as assembled, center of eye #17 to center of
eye #11,  12-3/16" approximately.

You MAY have to fashion some sort of a press, if the EML spring on your shock is
longer than the one on mine.... to allow you to remove the keeper (#12).... so the
spring (#13) can be removed. 
Do NOT scratch or nick the piston ROD!!    
I did NOT have to use a press, as when I unscrewed #18 far enough but nowhere
near the end of threads, nor even near covering any of the eye....I could press with
my fingers on the upper spring area, and remove the keeper relatively easily.   

NOTE!...Spring (#13) fits INto the top of item #14.   There MAY be a difference
between one end of YOUR spring and the other end, be sure you fit the
spring so it SEATS on the LIP of #14.  See note later on my making of a
replacement spring perch (14).

After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand pressure,
moving the eye ends (11 and (17), towards and away from each other, at varying
amounts of rod depth & speed.   Do this with the Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, & the
unit vertical.     When a shock absorber fails, it usually does so from fluid leaking
by the top seals (9 and 9A) (mine is, however, slowly failing from the two item #4 already has disintegrated), and the resulting failure from the loss of oil
is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for small or modest up & down
movements of the piston ROD.  Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, & middle,
& near fully-in positions, checking EACH POSITION with a short movement.  Move
it over the full range in one motion too.  Dead spots are NOT acceptable.  A good
shock unit has NO dead spots over any part of its normal travel.   The major
reason for a dead spot on this type of shock absorber is a lack of enough oil. 
Since the shock's normal position with a light load in the sidecar is with the shock
unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.  The amount of oil
needed will vary depending on if a shock is completely cleaned, dry, and empty,
and if just a fluid change. Because of that, I have not specified a quantity.

These shock absorbers will also fail from break-up of disc, item #4. mine is.
I am presently operating with just one of the two discs. I have NOT found
a replacement.

You may need to fashion a tool to unscrew the top plate (8), which has 4 holes
for a sturdy pin wrench.  Fashion a proper tool; this is NOT the place to use a
hammer and a round punch.   The top plate (8) may be very tight.   If your pin
wrench will not loosen it, place the shock unit in your freezer overnight, first...the
aluminum top plate (8) should shrink more than the steel body, easing its removal.   
When I reassembled the shock absorber, I made sure the inside & outside
threads were clean & dry, then I put a light smear of Hylomar sealant onto the
CAP threads (NOT BODY THREADS), letting the sealant set up a few minutes
in the air, before tightening it with the pin wrench.  I did this to give added
protection against any oil leakage.   

The top plate (8) has TWO oil seals (9, 9A), & they are NOT the same seals! 
The top cap is counterbored at each end, where the two seals (9, 9A) are installed. 
I measured the approximate size of these seals & of the counterbore areas.  The
two counterbore areas are NOT the same diameter.   The lower bore has a
diameter of 0.745" (18.9 mm); the top bore (this is the bore that contains the seal
one sees from the outside after the unit is all assembled) is 0.710" diameter
(18.03 mm).   The chromed piston ROD is 0.470" diameter (11.94 mm).   I 
inspected the existing seals.   They are squarely pressed-in, perhaps helped by
heating the top plate (8).

The TOP seal had the name ERIKS on it, with numbering of      12 18 3.5 - 5     
exactly as shown.   Obviously this means a seal of 12 mm central hole, 18 mm 
outside diameter; not sure of the 3.5, but 5 mm for mounting width is correct.  This
seal was unusual in that it had a projection upwards, tapered, that would help keep
filth out of the shock unit.  THAT may have been the "3.5"  .  I was totally unable
to get Eriks distributor or factory to respond in my request for information &
availability on this seal.   For that matter, I could not identify the exact Merkel seal
below, either, with distributors.   The numbering is too old, or, foreign, or?? 

The LOWER seal had a number  S9251+ on it, and mfr was Merkel.  The lower
counterbore diameter was 0.745" (18.9mm).  Thus, I suspect we need a 19 mm
OD seal, with a 12 mm inside diameter, 5 mm width.   NOTE that these seals do
NOT have the same style of lip, etc.

Not being able to locate the original seals, & NOT being happy with the lower seal,
I decided to install standard industrial lipped seals, of the type backed up on one
side, with a 'garter spring'.  These only work FAIR...& I may replace them at some
future date, modifying the cover, item 8, if I have to.

The TOP seal I used was:   12 x 18 x 3 mm  type HMS4R; AND, this seal was
installed with the garter spring, open side, DOWNWARD.   I could not find a seal
like the original, which had a tapered section going upward....that is, it would stick
well up towards the spring eye.  A 5 mm or even wider seal could be used at the top.

The BOTTOM seal I used was:   12 x 19 x 5 mm  type HMS4R.   When selecting
a seal, note that this seal can not be too much wider than 5 mm as the SLIDER has
a projection at its top, that fits into the bottom seal cavity very slightly. 

The direction for the seal's installation could be debated.   For best sealing against
pressure from the oil/air inside the shock, the seal would have its garter downward. 
Upward might seal better against dirt.

Many types of seals could be used.    I installed them with the top cap hot, with a
trace of rubber cement around the outside diameter of the seals.  I think the seals
could be installed with the top cap at room temperature, without any cement.  
Seals in many widths are available.  3 mm, 4.5 mm, 5 mm, & even wider.  Nitrile
would be a good material for the seals.  Seals are usually manufactured as 18 or
19 mm, but they are, in fact, made very slightly larger, so they are a press fit. 
Mentioned here in case you see your 18 seal being 18.059, the 19 at 19.23...etc.

hoped these seals would provide total sealing against oil leakage & from outside
dirt and filth.  They leaked some, over time/miles.

After you remove the top cap (8) with a pin wrench and have removed the internal
assembly, you will find that the steel shock absorber body (16) contains a precision
INternal sleeve, in its lower body area.   It is inside this sleeve that the piston (3) &
other parts operate.

Describing the eye (11)/ROD assembly from the top;....the eye (11) with its steel
sleeve surrounded by rubber, has the long piston ROD going downward.  On that
ROD are located the following parts, continuing here, going downward:
    a.  A large rubber bumper (10) that prevents the ROD assembly from bottoming
         out in the lower steel body (16) of the shock absorber.   This bumper (10) is
         about 3.85" in diameter, has its rounded nose end DOWNWARD, & its width
         is about 0.95". Its inside diameter is such that it can move with slight pressure
         on the rod.
    b.  The threaded aluminum top cap (8) you unscrewed to gain access, has the 4
         pin holes. This part contains internal seals, 9 & 9A, for which replacements are
         NOT YET clear to me.  ****I am not happy about the sealing of the parts I used
         here, & may modify the top at some later date for a different type of seal.
    c.  A rubber O-ring (7), of approximately 1.222" inside diameter, 1.425" outside
         diameter, 0.095" thickness.  These numbers do not exactly add up, that is,
         twice the thickness plus the ID is not the OD...due to inability to measure the
         old one exactly.    This rubber O-ring (7) fits in a machined area of the SLIDER.
         This machined area is similar to the one at the other end of the SLIDER, but the
         LOWER end of the SLIDER does NOT have an O-ring fitted; AND the LOWER
         end of the SLIDER has three notches machined into the outer edge; AND, a
         small hole in the lower flange.   Do NOT! install the slider upside down!!!
         TOP flange of the SLIDER has a 0.744" round projection at the center...that
         fits into the top cap slightly.    This particular top O-ring is mickey-mouse, in
         MY  estimation, as to how it nothing is there to keep it from slipping
         off the top of the SLIDER and moving inwards.  Be careful upon assembly,
         after which it will be OK.
    d.  There is a harder rubber bumper (6) of 0.903" outside diameter; 0.20" width,
         fitted just below the SLIDER.  Its inside diameter is such that it moves relatively
         freely on the rod.
    e.  A steel plate (5), domed on one side, with the FLAT side UP.
    f.  TWO very thin flexible steel discs (#4).   DO NOT remove one to reduce shock
         stiffness, as the remaining one will crack sooner, break up eventually.  IF you
         have a broken one, you CAN assemble the shock with just ONE, but it may break
         sooner than later. I expect mine to break up soon.  
I haven't any idea where to
         get more of these steel discs (#4).  I surely would like to have 2 new ones for
         my own shock unit.  If you locate a source, do let me know.

    g.  A piston (3) of alloy material, containing not just its center mounting hole, but 6
         surrounding holes.  The FLAT end of this piston must be UP.  In that position, a
         nut (2), 13 mm wrench size, is in the lower counter-bored end of the piston.   I
         used Loctite BLUE on cleaned threads.   Note that item 4 covers some of each
         outside edge hole; reducing the diameter of item #4 will change the shock action.

It is CRITICAL that parts ...especially the steel plates & installed
correctly, in the correct order!  NOTE ESPECIALLY the fitment of the domed
washer (#5), the DOME fits DOWNward against the steel plates (#4)!

Item #14, the spring perch, has a step in it to fit into the spring.  The step locates the
spring concentrically to the shock absorber body, so that the spring can not move
sideways & touch the body, where it would wear the body, but more importantly, would
make squeaking noises.  Item 14 seemed to be very hard rubber & was in poor
condition on my shock absorber, & fit much too tightly to the body, particularly the OD
threads area.  If yours is OK, you should make sure it slides easily onto the shock
body, making item #18 easier to adjust.  I threw away #14, & made a new one out
of aluminum on my lathe.  I put a slight relief on its underside for the #15 O-ring,
although this is hardly necessary.  Item 15 could be eliminated. 

Item #2 is a 13 mm hex nut.
Item #4 consists of TWO thin flexible steel washer-plates, and TWO are needed,
for additional strength & proper valving.   One of mine deteriorated badly, and I
am presently using just one...and I expect it to fail soon.























This shock absorber works in BOTH directions; its action in those directions
is NOT equal, by design.  That is, the 'bound-rebound' are quite different.  
The unit is velocity sensitive.  The fit of the piston (3) to the inside lower body
(16) sleeve ensures that relatively little oil under mild road irregularities will go
through the piston.  That is controlled by the thin steel flexible discs.  The
notches in the aluminum Slider, together with the lower steel plates (4, 5) &
piston (3) holes, & the #4 plates, all determine many of the characteristics
of the shock absorber (together with the diameter of the piston, etc).  


Shock Absorber fluid quantity & recommendations, etc:
SOME of this is a repeat of a previous paragraph.
After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand
pressure, moving the eye ends (11 & (17), towards & away from each
other, at varying amounts of rod depth & speed.   Do this with the
Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, & the unit vertical.   When these  shock
absorbers fail, it usually does so like most shocks: from fluid leaking
by the top seals (9 and 9A), although ring (item #4) can also break. 
A too little oil failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for
small or modest up & down movements of the piston ROD.  Move the
piston ROD to near fully-out, & middle, & near fully-in positions, checking
EACH POSITION with a short movement back and forth slightly, IN that
position.  ALSO move it over the full range in one motion.  Dead spots
are NOT acceptable.  A good shock unit has NO dead spots over any
part of its normal travel.   Said another way: the major reason for a dead
spot on this type of shock absorber is a lack of enough oil.  Since the
shock's normal position with a light load in the sidecar is with the shock
unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.  The
amount of oil needed will vary depending on if a shock is completely
cleaned, dry, & empty, or if just a fluid change. Because of that, I have
not specified a quantity.

The oil should be of a type meant for shock absorbers or suspensions.  If you
do not use such an oil, it could foam-up during use.   The oil should have a
REASONABLY GOOD Viscosity Index, which means that it does not change
thickness too rapidly with temperature changes.  Shock units are affected
not only by ambient temperatures, but from temperature developed internally
from the shock the the shock unit is moving fluid internally
through its passageways/orifices, etc, the fluid will heat up from this 'work'. 

The shock unit I worked on for this article had a few ounces at best of fluid left
in it.  I set up a crude apparatus to measure the oil viscosity at room temperature,
as best I could.   I compared the oil with known viscosity suspension/shock fluid
oils.   I used the same temperature (55F happened to be the temperature in
the shop that day) for all tests.   I measured the time in seconds for the same
amount of fluid to flow, from a same size tiny diameter of outlet, from a same
tallness of container. Admittedly a crude method; none-the-less it gave
reasonably repeatable results.   I tested quite a few synthetic & part-synthetic
fork oils & suspension fluids.  I used a well-known high quality & reliable brand,
so all tests would be repeatable & usable from the ONE manufacturer's stated
 It is not widely known that shock & suspension fluids will vary
considerably between brands, with the same 'stated' viscosity.  There is an
article on this website, that discusses & lists many manufacturer's oils, & actual
commercial laboratory tests on them, INCLUDING the two oils I have used in
this EML 310 shock absorber:

The fluid I selected for my first try was Golden Spectro Shock Fluid, Ultra Light,
code L.SFUL.  The L just means it came in one liter size bottle.  It has a
manufacturer's specification at 40C of 10.4 cST, and a VI of 385.  That should
be good in this application.  While there are formulas on this website to convert
cST to SUS, I will do it for you:  SUS = 61. 
Long after I first overhauled this
shock absorber, I took it apart again, & after finishing my changes, I used
Spectro cartridge forks fluid 85/150. I preferred the results.
See for actual tests on
MANY oils.

Do NOT! install engine oils, heavy fork oils, etc.   IN MY OPINION the SAE
for the oil should not exceed 5, or for very heavy loads, 7.5. 
In general, I found the stock spring too stiff for passengers up to 180# and
40# of luggage. I made no attempt to change the I assumed I
would have little life left after the final part #4 shattered....and have no
source for that part (SO FAR).


The K bike incorporates a bulb monitoring relay black box, that is rather
complicated in how it works. There are also two versions, using the same
identical number on them. You may want to modify this relay.  I have a
photo, and details, in item #2 in this article:  



Tail Light housing & plastic lens.  I did a LOT of in-depth searching
for the information on these.  The information follows:

1979 through the 1980's,  Suzuki Alto,
right rear, probably used on at
least the 5 door hatchback version.  This Alto was shipped all over the
world (no form of it ever imported for sale in USA, as far as I know).  It
was often sold under other names, such as Sierra, Muruti, etc.
Remco Winkelhuis of EML confirmed that the rear light of GT2 & GT3 was
from a Suzuki Alto  80-90's era model. 
Not all models of cars had them for all
years in that OR OTHER yearly ranges.  The Suzuki branded cars are
generally referred to as Generation Model numbers... that seem confirmed to
have the specific tail light plastic lenses used on the GT2 and GT3 are: 
SS30V, SS40V, SS80S, SS80V.

Certain cars which are versions of Suzuki cars do NOT have the correct
lens:  1973-1979 LS30/SH10 Hatch; 1990-1991 Holden Barina; Suzuki Cultus for
1991-1998; Suzuki Swift 1.6L; Suzuki Swift GTi; Suzuki Forsa 1985-1988 (Canada);
Pontiac Firefly 1985-1988 (Canada).  I spent many hours figuring all this out.

My GT2 had markings on the plastic lens:
SAE  A  84
1A E6 014246
Tokaidenso, Japan  
is on the yellow lens. 35701-7800R is on the red lens.
36250-7800R is on the clear lens.
35603-7800L is NOT the correct part.
It is likely that other markings will be seen, & probably none are important
but the ones above.
For instance: the
amber part had 6313 on it; the red part had 7326 on it,
& also 85003.
I obtained my spare assembly from SUZI FOUR company. 
Their address is 112 Dunheved Circuit; Nth St Marys NSW 2760
E-mail is:
On the internet:
Telephone (02) 9833 0216
Fax (02) 9833 1784

Below, a poor photo, but it is of                         
what is believed to be one of the various           
cars that the rear taillight assembly of the          
EML GT2 & GT3 came from.  NOTE                
that the proper lens for the sidecar is the            
right rear, not the left rear of the car.  
See the red arrow I put on the photo.                                                                                          






Below is a closeup photo of the
right rear plastic lens on my GT2.
Illuminated here only by camera
flash. As seen here, the right
side of the lense DOES slightly
wrap around.
  Colors may be
slightly off or less brilliant, due
to the camera flash.










Front Light housing:
Possibly Mazda part   BZ0189662  ???   It is still unclear what the
number really is.
Front Light plastic lens:  
My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
         210-41788R      Jap. "Koito" brand with markings:    <716

The spare/replacement assembly I obtained from Dave Edwards, below, 
had the same sort of plastic lens,
but different numbers on it.

The first photo, below, shows the front lamp as used on the Mazda 323
Notchback. The following photo, with a different angle, shows the same
lamp (YES, it IS!) on my GT2.  Angle of photography makes it look different.

Dave Edwards got his hands on some brand-new FRONT lamp
assemblies.   Complete assemblies, including outer lens, etc. 

Contact him directly:
























NOTE!    There is an EML sidecar group on the Internet:

I am a Member, Moderator, and Participant

I am looking for:
1.  Some of the steel flexible discs item #4 in the EML shock absorber
     sketch; or, the whole shock (??)/
2. Top oil seals (all of these rubber bits) for this same shock

snowbum E-mail address:  CLICK

Release:   01-19-2007

Revisions and dates:
01/23/2007:  annotations, pad information, information on lenses
01/27/2007:  minor editing and clarifications
02/21/2007:  update brake pads, calipers, and kit information
02/28/2007:  More info...Flexit, EZS, etc.
04/25/2007:  Add Magura information
05/23/2007:  Put ELECTRICS in sequence, clean up page appearance
                        slightly; minor updates.
07/18/2007:  Add hyperlink
09/17/2007:  Add information on old EML front marker lamps
10/13/2007:  Add 4 photos of very early EML and Grimeca brake
02/16/2008:  Updated information about EML, Eurowing, & EML Yahoo
                        groups website
03/15/2008:  Removed Flexit information, which will be put in its own article
05/05/2008:  Add right rear view of my rig, for a view of the top I built.
09/18/2008:  Add section with hyperlinks to the EML old brochure
10/06/2008:  very minor updating on EZS
03/27-28/2009:  Begin to add information on PIVOT & additional information
                        on the shock unit.
03/29/2008:  Complete the information on the shock unit.
03/31/2009:  Add more information on the pivot bearing.
04/04/2009:  Complete pivot reassembly & toe-in, ETC., & update this
                        article.  Release to Internet.
04/26/2010:  fix hyperlink to .taw
07/21/2010:  Add sale items
07/26/2010:  Remove sale items
11/04/2010:  Remove old brochure photos and their links, in favor of new,
                          better photos.
02/27/2011:  Remove bad hyperlink
03/29/2011:  Add photos and information about Dave Edwards, regarding the
                        front lamp assembly
03/30/2011:  Remove references to Dave Edwards, regarding availability of
                        front lens and lamp assembly, as all are now sold.
04/07/2011:  Clean up article so it is easier to read and understand.
05/26/2011:  Even more cleanup
06/22/2011:  add reference to the front lamps again, as two more are
06/29/2011:  Add annotated photo of the TUG rim
07/13/2011:  Fix bad hyperlinks for vintagebrake
08/17/2012:  Add some information on disc dimensions
08/22/2012:  Add line & link to K-hints, for bulb monitoring relay information
                        in the Electrics section
08/30/2012:  Add QR code, change Google code, add small amount of
                        information on rear taillight housing.
09/03/2012:  Add photo and comment for the Suzuki Alto rear.
05/06/2013:  Add a bit of information about Eurowing communications in
                        April 2013.
05/14/2013:  Modify Hella lamp info.
06/27/2013:  Add Grimeca factory hyperlink
07/18/2013:  Add some seal numbers.
08/11/2013:  Add availability of front lamp assemblies from David Edwards.
08/19/2013:  Add availability of the Firestone F560 tires
02/17/2014:  Minor updates, clean up article a bit too
05/08/2014:  Add information about weight measurements for my GT2,
                        as attached.
07/29/2014:  Update information on the shock absorber unit
09/06/2014:  Clean up article a bit more
04/08/2015:  Add confirmation on the rear light, provided by Al Olme;
                        who obtained it from Remco.
04/10/2015:  Add photo of lense of my GT2, and comments on it.
04/13/2015:  Add note regarding Suzuki models that seem confirmed
                        as having that rear lense, slight update on E.ML.
04/18/2015:  Clarified some details on that rear lense.
04/30/2015:  Obtained a spare rear lamp assembly, and updated this
                        article with the information.
05/07/2015:  Clarify that oil quantity is not specified, and that tests show
                        correct amount, move copy of paragraph downwards
                        for clarity.
06/22/2015:  Add more photos:  Grimeca caliper, pads, dimensions.  Very
                        minor update on wanted stuff on 08/19/2015
12/07/2015:  Brand-new disc information.  Clean up article, fix meta-coding,
                        move article to left side justification and narrowed article.
02/17/2016:  Larger fonts.  Update meta-codes.  Justify left.  Fix horizontal
                        lines.  Clean up article some.  Go back to how the brochures
                        were originally displayed, long ago, even though the top of the
                        article will be much wider, and harder to use on Smart Phones.
03/02/2016:  Final updating of meta-codes and narrowing, etc.
03/16/2016:  Add front strut measurements.

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

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Last edit of THIS page: Tuesday, April 26, 2016