EML and EZS sidecars, technical & repair information

Photos and tech on EML sidecars, including an early advertising brochure.
PLUS ...A step by step how-to article regarding suspension parts overhaul...and MUCH MORE!

This article contains some large photos. Allow time for them to load if you are on a slow connection.

This article includes considerable technical information on the early GT2 (two front hinges) and late model GT2 (single front hinge).
Many of the technical items may be correct for earlier models such as for the Tour-T, and other EML sidecars.
Some background on EZS is also here.

© Copyright, 2012, R. Fleischer
EMLsidecar8.htm
techindex sidecar section, item #8

This is a scan of all 4 pages of an old EML brochure, that includes photos of the single front hinge GT2, Midi, Tour, Mini, GT3E, and Speedline.
The rear page of this brochure has the specifications for those, PLUS the GTE and GT3.

EML is   E.ML
Note the period after the E in E.ML.    The letters EML stand for Eigen MakeLij, which means "home-made"....and refers to their off road sidecars.
E.ML was founded by Hennie Winkelhuis...references to him, mostly in Dutch, can be found by a Google search on the Internet...he was heavily involved in racing, W-Tec, quads, Paris Dakar, etc.    He was born in 1948, and died in May 2007.
E.ML Engineering Holland BV:
Handlelsweg2; NL-7161 BV Neede,
The Netherlands.
+31-0-545-292-154; fax +31-0-545-292-205.    The company is at 20 Magnolia St.    Neede is a small countryside town; and is pronounced nayda.
    EML is not always very responsive with E-mails, but you can try   info@EMLSIDECAR.com.
    www.emlsidecar.com
EML has had major financial problems over the years.....I have heard of bankruptcy's, etc. I don't know the present status.

Since the above was written, EML as such no longer exists, but is now WTech. The situation for older EML parts is unclear.

EML has a representative in the USA, called Eurowing.
They may, in the future, be able to provide SOME parts for the older models. Don't hold your breath for this. I think they will NEVER do this.
Check back on this website, and the above EML website, for the latest situation. I will post right here if I hear about, and confirm, that parts are available.
My experience with Eurowing is LOUSY.,,,,basically almost completely uncooperative, lying about parts availability and ordering of same, saying things are enroute when they never had any intention of even trying to order parts. Just terrible non-service. In all my years of dealing with a lot of companies in the motorcycle industry, they are the worst.

EZS is another manufacturer of quality sidecars and mounts, ETC.
The letters EZS stand for Engbers Zijspan Service.  They are located in Zelhem, Holland.   Albert Engbers "IS"...well "WAS" EZS.....the founder, the owner, the designer, and the constructor. In 2008 he passed EZS to his son, Dave Engbers.
     e-mail:   info@ezs-sidecar.com

These two manufacturer's, E.ML and EZS, are less than 30 miles apart, but have no ties.

EML and EZS both made a very considerable part of their sidecars and associated parts for the tugs... such as the suspension parts, subframes, sidecar tubes, suspensions, etc... ...in-house, and made hundreds of sidecars a year.

Here is a series of four photos of a very early EML sidecar (this is NOT my sidecar), and of the brake caliper and brake pads used for it. This brake is the Grimeca, and pads and parts are available from Michael "Mercury" Morse, at www.vintagebrake.com
NOTE the LAMP on the side of the BODY on the front: Al Olme noted that some early EML sidecars (80's and earlier?) had that ugly-looking front lamp unit, a combination marker and amber turn signal...bolted to the outside of the sidecar,... it protruded out as shown. Al says that it was made by Hella, still is available, as 2 per box, under part 003014251, and is not stocked in the USA, but is orderable from P.U.M.A. Contact "Paul" at (800)-354-3552

TWO photos of an early GT2 (TWO front hinges)
This EML sidecar opens without the front cover
being on an angle.

Photos of late GT2 (ONE front hinge). This hinge
is purposely designed so the sidecar opening part swings
slightly away from the motorcycle. A close look at the
hinge will show that its central pin is NOT directly in
line across-with the sidecar body, the result of which is that
the opened body top swings away from the motorcycle.

The quite weatherproof top I built from scratch. The windows are removable...or, can be rolled up.
There is a stiffening metal bar going fore-aft, centered, to keep the top from striking the head of the
passenger as speed increases (pressure is created by oncoming wind, in effect downwards on the top).
Note the front windshield where it stops at the side, and where my top windows begin.
This top was designed and likely way overbuilt, with many stress-relieving joints/reinforcements.
The top is likely even more over-kill on how the rear bottom area is Velcro'd over TWO lengths of
the bottom flap (that you cannot see in this photo), that wraps under and onto the fiberglass top.
I wanted this top waterproof, and UNable to be blown off at any speed nor likely wind condition.
The top material is the highest grade of a special boat cover material.   The amount of work that
went into this top was excessive!...but it has certainly held up and performed well, and still looks
almost like the day I finished it. It remains waterproof in a downpour.

I have a separate article with other views of this top........and of other folk's EML tops:
EMLTOPS.htm

This is the rim used on my K1100LT tug. Note the gradual slope on one side of the inside of the rim.
The original tires used on the tug were Firestone F590 165-70 R14, which are hard to find in the USA.

THIS IS NOT THE SIDECAR WHEEL RIM!!!

NOTE! The entire suspension is mounted to the EML frame, via THREE bolts. These bolts are grade 10.9, are 10 mm types; note that standard torque for a 10.9 grade 10 mm bolt is 53 foot-pounds.
with 1.5 mm pitch, and the length is 70 mm. Use Nyloc or similar nuts on all three bolts. The 3 holes in the welded 'tubes' on the EML frame fit these 10 mm bolts, but the heavy metal bracket that contains the pivot, etc., has approximately 12 mm holes. That means, depending on the precision with which EML did this bracket and frame tubes, there may be quite some TOE-IN adjustment available, by loosening these 3 bolts, and moving the bracket very slightly. Thus one may adjust toe-in at the suspension itself, and not just by the chair to tug fastenings. I set my toe-in to 5/16" to 3/8", with the rider on the seat, and no sidecar passenger. So, if you have loosened or removed the three-bolt mount, be sure to check the toe-in, before final tightening. I found the in-board bolt installed from the TOP, which means to remove the assembly, one needed to remove the tub! I cut the bolt, and installed a new one from the bottom. Yes, that is, theoretically, not quite as safe.

The pivot shaft (and pivot bearing) will possibly frustrate you a bit, so proceed slowly and methodically. By the time you try to remove the shaft from the bearing, it may be rusted and difficult to remove. Soak in a penetrating solvent such as PB Blaster or Kroil, for a day or three, and use a very sturdy puller...the end of the shaft has a nice little hole for your puller center bolt. The pivot contains a sealed two-row ball bearing, probably FAG type 529891C. This bearing is probably cataloged as 60 mm, but is likely 60.03 mm in diameter. I installed a Federal Mogul (Timken or SKF) equivalent, #513116. I think there are several equivalents, including a brand seldom seen in the USA, Breda CR1863. EML has fitted this bearing with, in my estimation, too tight a fit into the pivot housing, requiring a strong hydraulic press, so be very sure the pivot cavity is quite cleaned and smooth, etc., before installing a new bearing. Chamfer the pivot entrance edge to accept the bearing, which MUST be installed SQUARELY to the pivot. The bearing is pressed into the pivot area from one side; so must be removed to one side. The bearing will almost surely require a strong hydraulic press to remove, but a new one can be installed in a large bench vise. Use oil, and use soft square jaws on the vise, and before the new bearing is fully home, clean the last area it will be pressed into, and use the old bearing shell as the driver for that last little bit. NOTE that if you loosen the cotter key and then loosen that castle nut,....this will relieve pressure on the 30 mm shaft going through the pivot area. You will be UNable to then retighten it, if yours was like mine, as the body of the sidecar is in the way of getting a large allen wrench into the inside recess of this shaft...you will then have to remove the entire suspension setup. I suggest NOT loosening the castle nut unless your pivot bearing is bad. I also suggest not trying to defeat the design by drilling and adding a couple of roll pins, NOR, welding. The bearing was used on a number of cars including old Volvo's; Fiat's, and Yugo's, ETC.

The 30 mm shaft may be somewhat corroded, so clean it up quite well. It is a MILD press-fit into the pivot bearing. There is a washer on the inside to take up the space of the pivot cavity inner end wall thickness. There was a funny washer on the outside of mine...see the Plate notation in the photo below. You do need some sort of flat washer here. I have no idea why the tang had a small drilled/tapped hole on my washer. The nut need not be grossly tight, this is not some sort of preload adjustment, so it should be tightened reasonably, then a NEW cotter key installed.

In the above photo, my stock EML-supplied caliper is a Brembo type F05, and it is actually what is called a RIGHT caliper.
If rotated, and reversed, it would look like the RIGHT photo below. In the above photo, due to the closeness of the inside of the 15" EML
wheel, the caliper bleeder valve has been ground down. That makes IT unusable for proper bleeding, so a proper bleeder valve is inserted in place
of that one, when bleeding this brake.   The bleeder valve is a standard 6 mm threaded type with 8 mm hex. SOME Grimeca calipers and
pads are interchangeable with Brembo, but there is no problem finding Brembo parts, from such as vintagebrake.com

Left F08 caliper Right F08 caliper
Note that these are F08 caliper photos, as I did not have a similar good photo for the actual F05 caliper
on the sidecar. F08 and F05 look similar to each other, the F08 being bigger.

The Brembo caliper on my GT2 is model F05, which has 94 mm mounting centers; and mine has a casting number on it: 20.2677.00 Mine has a model number stamped on the outer face: 19C7

This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons, and is the same as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65, V50; etc. This model caliper was very popular and was used on many various vehicles. The caliper is available in both a right and left hand arrangement, so be SURE if you replace an entire caliper you get the correct one. The one I have is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type. Photos of calipers on the Internet may be confusing, if the view is from the backside, instead of the frontside; as the EML mounting is reversed. The F08 photos above are from the frontside.
Note: an almost identical LOOKING caliper to the F05 is the F08, but it has 108 mm mounting centers and 38 mm opposed pistons.

If you are going to purchase a caliper, have it next to the photos....or, better yet, take to a dealership and be sure to get the proper handed one that matches yours!

NOTE: The casting number is not necessarily the same number as the factory caliper number. As an example of this, the factory numbers for a right hand standard F05 is 20.2676.40; and for the left hand standard it is 20.2676.41. The factory also has a Gold Line, using the 10.3677.xx numbers, and there is a special LH narrow type, that uses a thin 3.8 mm disc thickness, as 20.4366.21. So, be careful with what you order. A good brake supply specialist knows the details.
Michael Morse is a good source of information...and parts:
http://www.vintagebrake.com
(209) 533-4346
info@vintagebrake.com

The seal and rebuild kit for the F05 caliper is widely available, it is Brembo 120.2799.10. Brembo seals are NOT compatible with DOT 5 silicone fluids!

Pads: The best C.O.F. (Coefficient Of Friction) organic pads are the Ferodo 'Platinum' pads...these are especially good with cast iron rotors, such as EML used.

Unconfirmed by me is that pads may be for REAR brake for above Guzzi models and others. However, pads that were reported to fit and work fine were identified as being marked (by all these numbers) on the package: KBA61084 400 Platinum DP601 FA47. Package also seemed to indicate Ferodo FD3207P 4541029 I think that the package numbering might have been too difficult to read, and the real number was FDB207P the P standing for the "Platinum" pads.
NOTE: F05 pads are available in numerous formulations. You want one compatible with YOUR disc, which is probably cast iron like mine was.

From another source, supposedly at EML, came Ferodo numbers FD7266 (might be 072686)...but might not be for this GT2 model....and I can't find those numbers. Nor can I confirm the Ferodo number D346GG nor Brembo 07.2686.13; which might be for an earlier model caliper??...or the F05??? More research needed here.

NOTE: for most folks, the C.O.F. and amount of braking on a sidecar can be widely different without problems. For those who ride vigorously and spiritedly, it may be more important. Sidecar conversions can have widely differing rear and front braking systems on the tug and sidecar. EML uses hydraulic brakes. Some folks plumb the sidecar brake INTO the tug system, front or rear or combined; or, have a separate pedal, often to a MC that couples only to the EML disc caliper. Because there are such very widely differing systems, including some with ABS or linked, etc., braking systems, I am hesitant to say to only use the Ferodo Platinum. It is my own personal feeling that it WOULD BE best to use just that pad, and if braking is TOO MUCH on the sidecar, and cannot be adjusted lower by whatever other means, that a modification to the sidecar pads is probably easy to do and is likely to be very effective. For most, I doubt they will have any problems without modifying the pads.

NOTE: Brembo calipers have always used hydraulic fittings threads that are 1.0 x 10 mm.
Brembo has always used a natural rubber type of seal, and it is NOT compatible with DOT 5 silicone fluids...that will cause them to swell and cause binding problems.

NOTE: My tug is a BMW K1100LT, which, as delivered from BMW, comes with a 12 mm Magura-made rear brake Master Cylinder. That MC is too small in bore (piston size) for proper brake pedal movement when the rear braking system is plumbed into the EML disc brake. The Magura MC was, therefore, changed to 16 mm. EML did this, as well as EZS. I had a rather difficult time finding out about the Magura details, so I thought I'd list them here:

Magura part number for the MC is 0131411. It is also called a 700.33. Magura no longer makes the 0231410, also called 700.32 (16 mm-L). The only difference is, AFAIK, the angle of the inlet for the reservoir. The 16 mm Magura was used not only by EML and EZS, but by KTM on their motorcycles. For all practical purposes these two MC are nearly identical. Either can be made to fit just fine. These Master Cylinders from Magura are made in three piston sizes: 12 mm, the 700.4, probably what BMW used originally; 13 mm, the 700.12, BLACK, as used on the K100 (It is possible that this size MIGHT work OK on an EML sidecar, but I have not tested that theory); and the 16 mm 700.33 or 700.32 which is silver colored. Repair kits for any of them are available from Magura. For all these MC, the hydraulic line threads are M10 x 1. For all these MC, Magura says the 'hub' is 12 mm, and the stroke is 12 mm. I measured the mounting centers of mine at 45 mm.

Below are two photos; one of the MC; the other photo is pf the extension pin that fits between the MC piston and the foot pedal rounded tip special screw. I had problems with my MC, had to replace it; and, the extension piece was buggered, as was the BMW foot pedal rounded tip special screw, 34-31-1-451-885. I still have no part number for the extension piece as in the photo...it is not, per Magura USA, a standard part from them. However, Magura of Germany says that the part is in the rebuild kits. BMW does not list the extension pin separately, but its fiche shows that it is very likely part of the rebuild kit. The below photo has notes on it as I sent it to someone for help in identifying that extension piece.

***When someone replaces a BMW master cylinder, they often just throw away that extension piece, as the new MC comes with one. See your friendly BMW dealership, they may be able to give you the extension piece if you need one, from their old box of trash parts. I recently got my hands on some stock 12 mm BMW rear Magura cylinders. These had the extension piece that is in the photo, below. They DO come with the cylinder from BMW.

NOTE that the 12 mm cylinder has a smaller bore INSIDE the piston where this extension piece fits! It will work, but is not as nice as if a large diameter extension piece was available....and, so far, that is likely to be found ONLY in the Magura 16 mm repair kit!

The O-ring, with the .."why", above, was thought about some by me, and I think it is used so the extension pin would properly fit and be captive in the BMW 12 mm piston diameter MC. So far, no proof that the Magura 16 mm rebuild kit comes with a larger extension piece.

Technical details of the hub and suspension and information on replacing wheel bearings and seals (information on overhauling the shock/spring unit is later in this article):

Inner seal is 32 x 52 x 7 mm (see text about 6 mm vs 7 mm)
Outer seal is 30 x 52 x 7 mm
Bearings I installed are both 6205-C3. The particular bearings I used were made by SKF, and were 6205-2RSJEM, in C-3 grade. Any QUALITY 6205-C3 bearing can be used. Do NOT use cheap off-branded bearings from China, Russia, etc. Whether you use an open or sealed bearing is up to you.

NOTE: When I removed the old bearings, I found the inner bearing to be 6205-2RS1/C HT51. This is a sealed type. I found the outer (wheel side) bearing to be 6205-2Z/C HT51.

Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the two allen bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. Lift off the caliper from the disc, and set the caliper slightly to the rear, being careful not to kink the hose. Do NOT operate the brake pedal or lever, as case may be, whilst the caliper is out of the disc. If you worry about this, insert something into the caliper between the pads. Remove the cotter key at the tub side of the axle that is at the castellated nut. Put a heavy wrench on the 1-1/4th inch castellated nut (actual size seems to be 31.75 mm, so you could also try a 31 or 32 mm wrench). Using a a large adjustable wrench or 24 mm or 15/16" open end wrench on the axle double D flatted area, unscrew the axle/nut. If the assembly is extremely tight, you might have problems gaining proper leverage, in which case you might consider having the inside wrench rest on the rear suspension area, as a support-stop. With the axle out, you can now remove the hub/disc assembly Remove the old seals, using a wood support and a broad screwdriver. AVOID nicking/scraping the hub bore when doing that. Discard the seals. Inspect the hub bearing fit entrance area. If any metal is proud into the bore, fix that first, so the bearing, which is a close fit, can be easily removed in the following procedure:

Heat the hub on a hot plate. The hot plate should have a metal covering or plate. Set the outer, aluminum flange wheel mounting area DOWN onto the hot plate. Heat the top aluminum hub area. The proper amount of heat is until a wetted finger sizzles when touched to the top aluminum hub where the bearing enters. You can put a dry towel over the unit to help heating. Using leather or cloth gloves, and if need be a square drift and very small hammer (carefully, to avoid nicking or scraping the bore), push the bearings out from the other side; repeat for both. They might even fall out. Don't loose the inner sleeve.

Allow the hub assembly to cool. Clean the counter-bore very carefully. Use rags and evaporating solvents. Don't leave anything at the sharp lower corner of the counterbore. If there is not a very smooth and SMALL radius for the bearing entry, on both sides of the hub assembly make them. Be SURE the counter-bore and hub bore is clean after this. Clean the inner sleeve.

Find something, perhaps an old large socket, that is a SLIGHTLY smaller diameter than the counter-bore, that the hub assembly can rest on, when cooling.

Chill the new bearings in your freezer. Reheat the hub, exactly as before. At the sizzle temperature (of the aluminum hub area where the bearing enters), using leather or cloth gloves, drop the new bearing into the top hub, squarely, and it should slide right in without any pressure. If you do not do this squarely, the bearing will not slide right in. Keeping the bearing in place with a finger or two of one hand, turn the hub over, and install the SLEEVE, and then the other bearing. Immediately, while the hub is still at sizzle temperature, place the hub with its new bearings and the sleeve, over the old large socket that fits into the counterbore area, and set the entire assembly on a table to cool. Be sure the top bearing is seated. The outer hub should be UP, disc DOWN. The bearings should have remained FULLY installed. BE SURE that they are. Let the hub cool to at least handling temperature, or to room temperature. Then set the hub on the bench, either side up is OK from now on.

Installing the seals:
BE SURE you use the CORRECT size seals at the correct side! The INNER seal has the 32 mm center; the OUTER seal is the 30 mm. Double check yourself before starting the seal work, and during it!
Install the outer seal so that it is flush, or not more than a tiny bit below flush.

NOTE on the inner seal thickness:
The counterbore depth on the suspension (inside) of the hub is LESS than that depth at the outer seal. When you install a 7 mm seal on the inside of the hub, that seal will be slightly proud of the surface. For a perfect flat fit, you could use a 6 mm seal. HOWEVER, you will probably find that 6 mm seals are not all that common, AND, you will probably find that the 7 mm seal will put the sealing LIP in a good position for the suspension seal lip area.

Place fresh grease liberally into a seal's open end. Install the seal, using an old socket that is a small amount smaller in diameter than the seal outside diameter. Install the seal EVENLY and SQUARELY, open greased end towards the new bearing. Lubricate the seal lip with grease. Do the other side with the other seal in the same manner. Be very careful not to nick the seal inner lip(s).

The hub is now almost ready to be reinstalled. Clean, and if need be, polish, with very very fine grit sandpaper the suspension lip...and be sure its outer edge is not sharp. If the lip is gritty, it will wear out the new seal in short order.

Clean the suspension lip bore area. Clean up the axle....the flatted end is often buggered-up, and you do NOT want that end ruining the new outer seal. Be sure the suspension lip is greased lightly, as is the axle over its length, including the seal area next to the double D flatted area. Install the hub and axle slowly and carefully, to avoid seal damage. Install the castellated nut rather tightly, and align the axle whilst doing this, so that the NEW cotter key can be properly installed. ...remember that you have to bend one tang of the cotter key back over the axle end or the nut.

Reassemble the caliper, etc. to the suspension. Inspecting the caliper pads, and caliper pistons, etc., for dirt, etc., is a good idea before assembling.

Cautions:
1. Do NOT press the bearings out, or in, with the WHEEL hub cold
2. Don't forget the inner spacer when installing the new bearings. If you do forget it is not a big deal, the hub is usable without it.
3. You can use sealed or non-sealed bearings. If you use non-sealed bearings, be sure they are well packed with a quality non-fibrous wheel bearing grease before the seals are installed, with extra grease in the cavity area.
4. Use only grade C3 bearings. Do NOT use tighter tolerance bearings.
5. Be sure the area of the axle where it fits into the outer seal is smooth....be very careful that it is, so the axle, lightly greased, will pass into the seal without nicking the sealing lip(s).
6. Be sure that the lipped area of the suspension is smooth too.

Shock absorber & Spring unit:

Numbers below (#x and #xx) refer to my below photo of the disassembled unit

Note: This shock absorber is more sophisticated than it appears at first glance after disassembly. It is velocity sensitive, and stiffens in a situation where, for example, there may be multiple quick irregularities in the road.

I will be describing the shock absorber as having a top and a bottom.   The shock absorber is installed with the Adjustor (8) DOWNward, slanted, so that end is the "bottom", herein.

The steel body of the shock absorber unit is item marked as #16.

The top eye (11) is fitted, as is the bottom eye, with a stiff rubber mount part that has a steel center sleeve, and it is via this sleeve that bolts pass through to mount the shock unit to the sidecar suspension and frame.   The top eye (11) has fitted to it a hard-chromed (for long wear) steel ROD. Unless the rod is damaged, there is NO reason to try to remove it from the top eye (11). I have NO idea where one might obtain a rod. If damaged, an original rod probably could be ground and re-plated with hard chrome.

The shock absorber assembly has an owner-adjustment; that is the aluminum bottom part (8), hereinafter called the Adjustor, that has the decorative vertical grooves. Whilst many motorcycle shock absorber spring units are adjusted by a hooked spanner wrench, that is not so on this EML shock. This part is meant to be adjusted by one's hand....probably easier with the suspension extended,.... that means jacking the main sidecar frame (not suspension), until the wheel is just barely off the ground.   This item (8) has a rubber O-ring both inside (in a groove for it, item #1) the lower area of this Adjustor, that serves almost no purpose except to keep dirt out of the internal threads and to help resist rotation slightly; and a similar O-ring above it, item #15, same idea. I believe the threads, as well as these O-rings and the top ADJUSTOR-to-bottom-item #14 mating surfaces, should be lubricated with silicon grease during assembly, to make the Adjustor work more smoothly with less effort, over long periods of time.

The Adjustor part (8) has finely pitched internal threads, mating to hidden threads (when assembled) on the outside of the shock absorber body. Numerous turns of this Adjustor can be made. The adjustment is for preload on the SPRING, to set ride height for weight being carried. The Adjustor does NOT adjust the shock absorber internals. The Adjustor (8) is internally threaded nearly its entire length, so it can be adjusted fairly high, as well as quite low. Item #14 sits just above this Adjustor (8), and between them is one of the O-rings. Item #14 is close fitting, but movable, on the shock body (16). Item #14 does NOT move further DOWNWARD into the body (16) threaded area, so the Adjustor (8) for DISasssembly...or REassembly, should be moved upwards until it contacts #14, and then maybe a turn or so more, before the spring is removed or replaced....as compressing the spring is needed for removing or replacing #12.

In order to remove the spring, you do NOT NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR!......the Adjustor (8) can be lowered substantially. If need be, thumb pressure on the top area will release the top plate....this Keeper/Top Perch (12) can then be removed, as it has a lower lip.

Spring (13):
    free standing length:   7.75"
    coils diameter:             0.300" as stock, chrome plated
    outside diameter:        2.325"

Shock absorber over-all length, as assembled, center of eye #17 to center of eye #11, 12-3/16" approximately.

You MAY have to fashion some sort of a press, if the EML spring on your shock is longer than the one on mine.... to allow you to remove the keeper (#12).... so the spring (#13) can be removed. Do NOT scratch or nick the piston ROD!!
I did NOT have to use a press, as when I unscrewed #18 far enough but nowhere near the end of threads, nor even near covering any of the eye....I could press with my fingers on the upper spring area, and remove the keeper relatively easily.

NOTE!...Spring (#13) fits INto the top of item #14. There MAY be a difference between one end of YOUR spring and the other end, be sure you fit the spring so it SEATS on the LIP of #14. See note later on my making of a replacement spring perch (14).

After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand pressure, moving the eye ends (11 and (17), towards and away from each other, at varying amounts of rod depth and speed.   Do this with the Adjustor end (8) DOWNward.     When a shock absorber fails, it usually does so from fluid leaking by the top seals (9 and 9A), and the resulting failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for small or modest up and down movements of the piston ROD.  Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, and middle, and near fully-in positions, checking EACH POSITION with a short movement. Move it over the full range in one motion too. Dead spots are NOT acceptable. A good shock unit has NO dead spots over any part of its normal travel.   The major reason for a dead spot on this type of shock absorber is a lack of enough oil. Since the shock's normal position with a light load in the sidecar is with the shock unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.

NOTE that it is possible to overfill this shock absorber

You need to fashion a tool to unscrew the top plate (8), which has 4 holes for a sturdy pin wrench. Fashion a proper tool, this is NOT the place to use a hammer and a round punch.   The top plate (8) may be very tight.   If your pin wrench will not loosen it, place the shock unit in your freezer overnight, first...the aluminum top plate (8) should shrink more than the steel body, easing its removal.   When I reassembled the shock absorber, I made sure the inside and outside threads were clean and dry, then I put a light smear of Hylomar sealant onto the CAP threads (NOT BODY THREADS), letting the sealant set up a few minutes in the air, before tightening it with the pin wrench. I did this to give added protection against any oil leakage.

NOTE that this top plate (8) has TWO oil seals (9, 9A), and they are NOT the same seals! The top cap is counterbored at each end, where the two seals (9, 9A) are installed. I measured the approximate size of these seals and of the counterbore areas. The two counterbore areas are NOT the same diameter.   The lower bore has a diameter of 0.745" (18.9 mm); the top bore (this is the bore that contains the seal one sees from the outside after the unit is all assembled) is 0.710" diameter (18.03 mm).   The chromed piston ROD is 0.470" diameter (11.94 mm).   I inspected the existing seals.   They are squarely pressed-in, perhaps helped by heating the top plate (8).

The TOP seal had the name ERIKS on it, with numbering of      12 18 3.5 - 5      exactly as shown to the left here.   Obviously this means a seal of 12 mm central hole, 18 mm outside diameter; not sure of the 3.5, but 5 mm for mounting width is correct.  This seal was unusual in that it had a projection upwards, tapered, that would help keep filth out of the shock unit. THAT may have been the ""3.5"" . I was totally unable to get Eriks distributor or factory to respond in my request for information and availability on this seal.   For that matter, I could not identify the exact Merkel seal below, either, with distributors.   The numbering is too old, or, foreign, or??

The LOWER seal had a number S9251+ on it, and mfr was Merkel. The lower counterbore diameter was 0.745" (18.9mm). Thus, I suspect we need a 19 mm OD seal, with a 12 mm inside diameter, 5 mm width.   NOTE that these seals do NOT have the same style of lip, etc.

Not being able to locate the original seals, and NOT being happy with the lower seal in any event, I decided to install standard industrial lipped seals, of the type backed up on one side, with a 'garter spring'. These only work FAIR...and I may replace them at some future date, modifying the cover, item 8, if I have to.

The TOP seal I used was:   12 x 18 x 3 mm type HMS4R; AND, this seal was installed with the garter spring, open side, DOWNWARD.   I could not find a seal like the original, which had a tapered section going upward....that is, it would stick well up towards the spring eye. A 5 mm or even wider seal could be used at the top.

The BOTTOM seal I used was:   12 x 19 x 5 mm type HMS4R.   When selecting a seal, note that this seal can not be too much wider than 5 mm as the SLIDER has a projection at its top, that fits into the bottom seal cavity very slightly. The direction for seal's installation could be debated.   For best sealing against pressure from the oil/air inside the shock, the seal would have its garter downward. Upward might seal better against dirt.

Many other types of seals could be used.    I installed the seals with the top cap hot, with a trace of rubber cement around the outside diameter of the seals, but I think the seals could be installed with the top cap at room temperature and without any cement.   Seals in many widths are available. 3 mm, 4.5 mm, 5 mm, and even wider. Nitrile would be a good material for the seals. Seals are usually manufactured as 18 or 19 mm, but they are, in fact, made very slightly larger, so they are a press fit. Mentioned here in case you see your 18 seal being 18.059, the 19 at 19.23...or some such.

I hoped these seals would provide total sealing against oil leakage and from outside dirt and filth. They leaked.

After you remove the top cap (8) with the 4 pin wrench you made; and, remove the assembly, you will find that the steel shock absorber body (16) contains a precision INternal sleeve, in its lower body area.   It is inside this sleeve that the piston (3) and some other parts primarily operate.

Describing the eye (11)/ROD assembly from the top;....the eye (11) with its steel sleeve surrounded by rubber, has the long piston ROD going downward. On that ROD are located the following parts, continuing here going downward:
    a. A large rubber bumper (10) that prevents the ROD assembly from bottoming out in the lower steel body (16) of
         the shock absorber.   This bumper (10) is about 3.85" in diameter, has its rounded nose end DOWNWARD,
         and its width is about 0.95". Its inside diameter is such that it can move with slight pressure on the rod.
    b. The threaded aluminum top cap (8) you unscrewed to gain access, that has the 4 pin holes. This part contains
        internal seals, 9 and 9A, for which replacements are NOT YET clear to me. ****I am not happy about the sealing
        of the parts I used here, and may modify the top at some later date for a different type of seal.
    c. A rubber O-ring (7), of approximately 1.222" inside diameter, 1.425" outside diameter, 0.095" thickness. These numbers do
        not exactly add up, that is, twice the thickness plus the ID is not the OD...due to inability to measure the old one exactly.
        This rubber O-ring (7) fits in a machined area of the SLIDER, and I make note here that this machined area is similar
         to the one at the other end of the SLIDER, but the LOWER end of the SLIDER does NOT have an O-ring fitted; AND
         the LOWER end of the SLIDER has three notches machined into the outer edge; AND, a small hole in
         the lower flange.   Do NOT! install the slider upside down!!!
         The TOP flange of the SLIDER has a 0.744" round projection at the center...that fits into the top cap slightly.    This particular
         top O-ring is mickey-mouse, in MY estimation, as to how it mounts...as nothing is there to keep it from slipping off the top of
         the SLIDER and moving inwards. Be careful upon assembly, after which it will be OK.
    d. There is a harder rubber bumper (6) of 0.903" outside diameter; 0.20" width, fitted just below the SLIDER. Its inside
         diameter is such that it moves relatively freely on the rod.
    e. A steel plate (5), domed on one side, with the FLAT side UP.
    f. TWO much thinner steel plates (4).   On mine, I removed ONE, to reduce bound force, it could even be left out entirely,
         if you decided to go further in this regard.
    g. A piston (3) of alloy material, containing not just its center mounting hole, but 6 surrounding holes. The FLAT end of this
         piston must be UP. In that position, a nut (2), 13 mm wrench size, is in the lower counterbored end of the piston.   I used Loctite
         BLUE on cleaned threads.

It is CRITICAL that these parts all...especially the steel plates and piston...be installed correctly, in the correct order!
NOTE ESPECIALLY the fitment of the domed washer (#5), the DOME fits DOWNward against the steel plates (#4)!

Item #14, the spring perch, has a step in it to fit into the spring. The step locates the spring concentrically to the shock absorber body, so that the spring can not move sideways and touch the body, where it would wear the body, but more importantly, would make squeaking noises. Item 14 seemed to be very hard rubber, and was in poor condition on my shock absorber, AND, fit much too tightly to the body, particularly the OD threads area. If yours is OK, you should make sure it slides easily onto the shock body, making item #18 easier to adjust. In my instance, I threw away item 14 and made a new one out of aluminum on my lathe. I put a slight relief on its underside for the #15 O-ring, although this is hardly necessary. Item 15 could be eliminated, actually. If you make the spring perch, you probably would think to consider making the inside diameter just barely large enough to fit over the threads. Don't! You want the ID to be a smooth sliding fit (drops by itself, but no more) onto the main body (do not have it so large as to go by the body threads).

This shock absorber works in BOTH directions, and its action in those directions is NOT equal, by design. That is, the 'bound-rebound' are quite different. The unit is also velocity sensitive. The fit of the piston (3) to the inside lower body (16) sleeve ensures that relatively little oil under mild road irregularities will go through the piston. That is controlled by the thin steel discs. The notches in the alloy traveling SLEEVE, together with the lower steel plates (4, 5) and piston (3) holes, determine SOME of the characteristics of the shock absorber (together with the diameter of the piston, notches in the SLIDER, etc).

The oil should be of a type meant for shock absorbers or suspensions. It should have a REASONABLY GOOD Viscosity Index, which means that it does not change thickness too rapidly with temperature changes. Shock units are affected not only by ambient temperatures, but from temperature developed internally: as the road surface becomes more and more irregular, the shock unit is moving fluid internally through its, in effect, orifices, and the fluid will heat up some from this 'work'.

The shock unit I worked on for this article had a few ounces at best of fluid left in it. I set up a crude apparatus to measure the oil viscosity at room temperature, as best I could. I compared the oil with known viscosity suspension/shock fluid oils. I used the same temperature (55°F happened to be the temperature in the shop that day) for all tests. I measured the time in seconds for the same amount of fluid to flow, from a same size tiny diameter of outlet, from a same tallness of container. Admittedly a crude method; non-the-less it gave reasonably repeatable results. I tested quite a few synthetic and part-synthetic fork oils & suspension fluids. I used a well-known high quality and reliable brand, so all tests would be repeatable and usable from the manufacturer's stated specifications. It is not widely known that various shock and suspension fluids will vary, considerably, between brands, with the same 'stated' viscosity.
There is an article on this website, that discusses and lists many manufacturer's oils, and actual tests on them: viscosity.htm

The STOCK oil in the EML 310 seems to be closely equivalent to two different Spectro Oils products; I selected one of these products, as the other one is not formulated for long term use (it is a race fluid, needing seasonal changes). The fluid I selected is: Golden Spectro Shock Fluid, Ultra Light, code L.SFUL.   It has a manufacturer's specification at 40°C of 10.4 cST, and a VI of 385. That should be good in this application.
While there are formulas on this website to convert cST to SUS, I will do it for you: SUS = 61
Do NOT! install engine oils, heavy fork oils, and so on.   IN MY OPINION the SAE for the oil should not exceed 5, and preferably be much lower.
Operation of this shock absorber, with its upper air chamber, will aerate the oil (cause bubbles). Do not overfill this shock absorber, it will get very stiff in operation.   If you do not like its performance, try increasing the oil quantity by 15 cc or so each time until it performs as you like it. THAT is preferable than a thicker oil.  Be sure you do not exceed the amount of oil the shock can take, or it will bind up.

***If someone was going to put relatively heavy loads in the sidecar, a fluid that was a bit higher in viscosity than the stock original fluid might be considered.     The above Spectro fluid, but in grade "Very Light" would be a good choice. STILL, I prefer using a slightly increased quantity of oil...perhaps 25 cc additional.

One of the things I was concerned about was not just how much oil, but IF there was supposed to be an AIR CUSHION above the fluid level. I did a fair amount of experimentation, and a lot of thinking about this. I am not 100% sure I am correct in this...but....
I looked at the design of the shock unit, particularly the SLIDER function, many times.   The function of the PISTON, domed washer, and steel discs, are very simple to understand...NOT SO the operation of the slider and area in the slider and above it..
I then started filling the shock using an accurate laboratory-type glass graduate, a small amount at a time, and testing the shock by hand each time. I found the correct amount, I THINK... to be about 100 cc. The correct amount will fill the lower inside chamber, plus about 1/16" or so above that level. It was possible to put considerably more oil in the shock, enough, in fact, that with the piston and rod fully down, that the TOP CAP would just be screwable home, without leaking from internal pressure at the top cap seals. YOUR results may vary.

Electrics:

Al Olme noted that some early EML sidecars (80's and earlier?) had that ugly-looking front lamp unit, a combination marker and amber turn signal...bolted to the outside of the sidecar,... it protruded out. Al says that it was made by Hella, still is available, as 2 per box, under part 003014251, and is not stocked in the USA, but is orderable from P.U.M.A. Contact "Paul" at (800)-354-3552

Tail Light housing: awaiting information

Tail Light plastic lens: The tail light MAY be the same as from the right hand REAR side of a 1985 Suzuki Alto. My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
SAE A 84
1A E6 014246
Tokaidenso, Japan 35603-7800R
amber part had 6313 on it; the red part had 7326 on it, and 85003

Front Light housing:
Possibly Mazda part   BZ0189662 ???   It is still unclear what the number really is.

Front Light plastic lens:   My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
         210-41788R      Jap. "Koito" brand with markings:    <716
                                                                                          <859
                                                                                          <197

The replacement assembly had the same sort of plastic lens, but different numbers on it.

The first photo, below, shows the front lamp as used on the Mazda 323 Notchback.
The following photo, with a different angle, shows the same lamp (YES, it IS!) on my GT2.

A couple more of the brand-new lamp assemblies with lenses, etc., are available. Contact me if you want one, and I will forward your E-mail.
contact me, snowbum, at: email image

Revisions and dates:
01/23/2007: annotations, pad information, information on lenses
01/27/2007: minor editing and clarifications
02/21/2007: update brake pads, calipers, and kit information
02/28/2007: More info...Flexit, EZS, etc.
04/25/2007: Add Magura information
05/23/2007: Put ELECTRICS in proper sequence, and clean up page appearance slightly; minor updates.
07/18/2007: Add hyperlink
09/17/2007: Add information on old EML front marker lamps
10/13/2007: Add 4 photos of very early EML and Grimeca brake
02/16/2008: Updated information about EML, Eurowing, and EML Yahoo groups website additional notes
03/15/2008: Removed Flexit information, which will be put in its own article
05/05/2008: Add right rear view of my rig, for a view of the top I built.
09/18/2008: Add section with hyperlinks to the EML old brochure
10/06/2008: very minor updating on EZS
03/27-28/2009: Begin to add information on the PIVOT; and some additional information on the shock unit.
03/29/2008: Complete the information on the shock unit.
03/31/2009: Add more information on the pivot bearing.
04/04/2009: Complete the pivot and reassembly and toe-in, ETC., and update this article. Release to Internet.
04/26/2010: fix hyperlink to .taw
07/21/2010: Add sale items
07/26/2010: Remove sale items
11/04/2010: Remove old brochure photos and their links, in favor of new, better photos.
02/27/2011: Remove bad hyperlink
03/29/2011: Add photos and information about Dave Edwards, regarding the front lamp assembly
03/30/2011: Remove references to Dave Edwards, regarding availability of front lens and lamp assembly, as all are now sold.
04/07/2011: Clean up article so it is easier to read and understand.
05/26/2011: Even more cleanup
06/22/2011: add reference to the front lamps again, as two more are available.
06/29/2011: Add annotated photo of the TUG rim
07/13/2011: Fix bad hyperlinks for vintagebrake