This article contains some large scans/photos.
Allow time to load if you are on a slow connection.
© Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
sidecar section #SC8
This is a scan of all 4 pages of an old EML brochure that includes
photos of the
single front hinge GT2, Midi, Tour, Mini, GT3E, &
Speedline. The rear page of
this brochure has specifications for
all those, & GTE & GT3.
The GT2 and GT3 were discontinued ~1990
Who is EML?........what about EZS?
EML is E.ML (Even though the sales brochure says E.M.L.). Note the period after the E in E.ML. The letters EML stand for Eigen MakeLij, which means "own making" or "home-made"....and actually refers to their off road sidecars.
E.ML was founded by Hennie Winkelhuis...references to him, mostly in Dutch, can be found by a Google search on the Internet...he was heavily involved in racing, W-Tec, quads, Paris Dakar, etc. He was born in 1948 & died in May 2007.
E.ML Engineering Holland BV:
Near as I can tell, their original address was 20 Magnolia Street.
They moved to Handlelsweg2; NL-7161 BV Neede (pronounced NAYDA); The Netherlands.
+31-0-545-292-154; fax +31-0-545-292-205.
EML is not always very responsive with E-mails, but you can try info@EMLSIDECAR.com www.emlsidecar.com
however, I have found that site forwards to EMLTRIKES.COM, and is not going to be helpful if you are in the USA.
EML has had major financial problems over the years.....I have heard of bankruptcy's, etc. I don't know the present status & it may change at any time.
Since the above was written, EML as such no longer exists,
but is now
WTech. The situation
for older EML parts is
unclear. I have been told
EML & W-Tech are the same, from
the EML distributor in the USA.
Communications were made in 2015.... with Remco Winkelhuis with E-mail to: firstname.lastname@example.org. If contacting him, try to use Dutch, rather than English....(this is not yet confirmed). Remco is likely related to E.ML founder Hennie Winkelhuis...how, I do not know. Al Olme told me that W-TEC is making sidecars & trikes under the EML name....this was 04/13/2015.
Who is EZS?
EZS is another manufacturer of quality sidecars & mounts, ETC. The letters EZS stand for Engbers Zijspan Service. They are located in Zelhem, Holland. Albert Engbers "IS"...well "WAS" EZS.....the founder, the owner, the designer, & the constructor. In 2008 he passed EZS to his son, Dave Engbers. e-mail: email@example.com EZS is still in business & has at least one representative in the USA.
These two manufacturer's, EML and EZS, are less than 30 miles apart, but have no ties.
EML & EZS both made a very considerable part of their sidecars & associated parts for the tugs... such as the suspension parts,
subframes, sidecar tubes, suspensions, etc...all in-house, and made hundreds of sidecars a year in the past. EZS also made things for others. 92 Flexit sidecars were made by EZS in Holland (The Netherlands) – 1991 to 1999.
There is an EML sidecar group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/EML_SCL/info Snowbum is a Member, Moderator, and Participant. I suggest you go to that site and read the various documents, etc., in the FILES section. Join and post to the Group. Traffic is quite light, but the knowledge high.
There is a database being developed, ever so slowly on that website, for parts, etc.
EML has a representative in the USA, called Eurowing. They are in Hialeah, Florida, website link is below. They may be able to provide SOME parts for the older models. My experience with Eurowing was LOUSY, almost completely un-cooperative, downright lying about parts availability & ordering of same, saying things are enroute when they never had any intention of even trying to order parts. Just terrible non-service. In all my years of dealing with a lot of companies in the motorcycle industry, they, maybe, were the worst. http://www.eurowingusa.com/home.html. Bottom of that linked page has phone numbers, etc. Let me know if you manage to buy ANY PARTS for an EML, etc. Please read the next several paragraphs, as some parts HAVE been obtained recently!
In early April of 2013, on a whim, I decided to, AGAIN, contact Eurowing, after several years previously having tried to get parts...this time, again, to see if EML sidecar parts were available. This is where the message was sent-to, and who initially replied to me:
2800 W 84 Street Bay 1
The final message from them TO ME was 7 April 2013. Note the name Sali:
""W-Tec or EML is the same company , will forward your request to our
factory, as soon as
a reply will let you know . Regards Sali EurowingUSA""
There was NEVER any further contact by Eurowing, in ANY manner,
directly to ME.
FURTHER Update 2015: Al Olme has been in contact with Eurowing & has received parts!...including a new brake disc for me, Snowbum. I purchased a new disc (strictly for a spare, mine was still OK) for the disc brake of my GT2, via Al's order to EuroWing. Perhaps they have gotten the message from EML that they need to be more business-like?? MORE when I have more!
NOTE: New discs, Stainless Steel..?... are also probably available from:
St.Christoffelstraat 17 | 5424 TD | Elsendorp | NL
Tel: +31(0)492-363077 | mob: +31(0)653896828
The meat of this article begins here:
I sold my 1983 R100RT-Ural Sidecar rig quite some years ago; and purchased what is now my own personal sidecar rig, which I intend to keep until too old to drive it. This rig is the single-front-hinge GT2 model; it is pulled by an early 1993 model (produced June 1992) BMW K1100LT. I have made a lot of modifications/changes. The rig used to be Al Olme's. I think he may miss it so much that he is constructing/assembling another of these rigs :-)
If you look at the brochure pages at the beginning of this article, you will find dimensions, weight, etc. for this EML sidecar. I have NOT confirmed the empty weight of the entire sidecar by itself because I never weighed mine separately. EML published that in the brochure as 123 Kg, which is 271 pounds.
I have measured my GT2 for weight at the tire-to-surface point. The
tire at that time was a Nankang N-803 model,
about 85% worn, in size 135R15.
The wheel was standard as
were suspension parts. NOTE that
weight on a sidecar wheel will somewhat depend
on the distance the
sidecar wheel is from the centerline of the tug.
For my rig, the
center-line of the tug rear tire to the center-line of the sidecar tire,
as if there was no
lead, is 53-1/2". For all weight measurements
the sidecar had ~10 pounds of
brackets for the seat,
etc. It was
attached to my tug & the sidecar had approximately
23 pounds of
weight (tools, water, etc.)
in the sidecar trunk, most of that 23 pounds
was against the aft wall of the trunk. The sidecar interior,
trunk, has heavy industrial/hotel carpeting, perhaps a total of 20
pounds. The windshield is a
width-shortened full type; the
full heavy duty top I made, with tall roll bar, was on the
I measured, on an accurate scale, the weight the tire produced
towards the ground
(actually, 2.5" above
ground due to scale
thickness). It was 249 pounds. For a second test
I had a passenger of 130 pounds sitting in the chair, centered
the chair seat.
The result was 334 pounds. All these results were
The wheel lead I use is 13-1/4".
is a series of photos of a very early EML sidecar (this
is NOT my sidecar),
and of the brake
caliper & brake pads used for
it. This brake is the Grimeca; pads/parts
are available from Michael
"Mercury" Morse, at
contact the manufacturer, for information:
NOTE the LAMP on the SIDE of the BODY TOWARDS the front. Al Olme noted that some early EML sidecars (80's & earlier?) had that ugly-looking front lamp unit, a combination marker & amber turn signal...bolted to the outside of the sidecar,... it protruded out as shown. Al says that it was made by Hella, still available as 2 per box, under part 003014251, is not stocked in the USA, orderable from P.U.M.A. Contact "Paul" at (800)-354-3552. An internet search might find other sources?
Note the differences between the EML marked and Grimeca marked calipers.
TWO photos of an early GT2 (TWO front hinges). This EML sidecar opens without the front cover purposely being on an angle as it is raised.
Everything from this point is of my own later model ONE hinge GT2.
This stock EML hinge is purposely designed so the front cover swings slightly away from the motorcycle as the cover is opened. A close look at the hinge will show that its central pin is NOT at 90° to the sidecar body, thus the opened front cover swings away from the motorcycle.
The photo below shows the quite weatherproof top I built from scratch. The windows are removable ...or, can be rolled up. There is a flat thin bar stiffening piece going fore-aft, centered at the top, to keep the canvas top from striking the head of the passenger as speed increases (pressure created by oncoming wind is downwards on the top). I probably way over-designed and overbuilt the top. Very heavy best of the best canvas and fittings, numerous stress-relieving joints/reinforcements. The top is likely even more over-built on how the rear bottom area is Velcro'd over TWO lengths of the bottom flap (that you cannot see in this photo), that wraps under & onto the fiberglass tub. I wanted this top waterproof, & UNable to be blown off at any speed/wind condition. There is also a FORWARD flap, with snaps, at this REAR area. The side windows have zippers & are arranged so the windows can be rolled-upwards if one wants more ventilation, & there is a strap and snaps built into the top to keep the windows rolled-up as desired. These side-curtains/windows are removable if one so desires. Much thought went into what type of material to use for the material for the top; and, for its waterproofing. I also wished to add to the top material's own inherent water-proofing. I consulted boat top makers, ETC. I decided on "Starbrite Waterproofing with PTEF"....which is for tents, boat tops, boat covers, outdoor clothing, etc. It is approved for Sunbrella, fabric blends, leather, canvas, and Nylon. It does not change fabric breathability nor color. It also allows cleansing off bird droppings nicely. Use exactly per the container! The top material is the highest grade of a premium boat cover material. The amount of work that went into this top was excessive...but it has certainly held up & performed well, & still looks almost like the day I finished it, many years ago. It remains waterproof in a downpour.
Separate article with other views of this top, and of other folk's EML tops: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/emltops.htm
NOTE!.....the gas strut for the trunk on my rig is a common 4420, no brand on it, only the following numbers: 4420 2669. I did a quick check on the internet, as that is a common gas strut unit, and here is the link to a similar product, but do check every specification....which is on the page...the unit is made in the USA. Not expensive. http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4420-gas-charged-universal-lift-support-strut-40444w/
Measured length, fully closed (removed from the trunk):_____________inches.
Measured length, completely extended: ~11-7/8" between mounting centers.
NOTE!.....the gas strut for the front lift lid is a common 4418, no brand on it, only the following numbers: 4418 2569. When fully extended it is 17" between mounting centers; when lid is fully closed the shock absorber has not reached its minimum closed length. The in-use closed length is 14-1/2". I did some measuring and one could easily use a slightly longer gas strut, and the front lid would be more vertical when opened, if you want that. Probably could be up to 3" longer. The maximum body diameter is 0.60". This one is probably also available from the above www.liftsupportsdepot.com, or one close to it. Here are photos of its installation in my GT2. Note that the front fastener for the gas strut was welded to the cross tube. Note that the company has all sorts of various ball ends, etc., available. FRONT LID PHOTOS BELOW:
Photo of my SIDECAR wheel:
Tires are easily available. I have recently been using the Coker Tire Company. Presently I am using a 135R15 Firestone F560 tire on the sidecar wheel. It came from Coker, was very freshly made. It replaced a well-worn Nankang N-803 of the same size, that was on the sidecar when I purchased it. Coker owns the rights and moulds for these Firestone tires, and others.
Photo of my Tug's Rear wheel:
In the BELOW photo, this is the EZS rim used on my K1100LT tug. Note the gradual slope on one side of the inside of the rim. The original tires on the tug, when I purchased the sidecar rig, were Firestone F590 165-70 R14, which are hard to find in the USA. I found one, & replaced the rear tire once. I am presently using a Mastercraft P175-70 A/S-IV on the tug rear, which has worked well for me. That size MAY not easily fit the front (?), due to the limited clearance between front fender & tire. I MAY eventually try the same tire/size for the front; and, if need-be, modify the fender bracketry. For my next tire, however, I am going to try a 165-70 R14 tire, M + S, from China. I will obtain another when the front needs changing. I will then compare performance of the various front and rear tires.
For those Canadians who do not want to; or,
cannot deal with Coker, I have been
Firestone F560 tubeless blackwall radial tires
are available in Canada:
Sylmar Auto Ville (http://www.sylmar.ca/live/sav.html)
661 Stevens Street
PHOTO OF MY TUG'S REAR RIM....this IS NOT THE SIDECAR WHEEL RIM!!!
This is a photo showing where the sidecar AXLE fits.
I am not fond of how EML designed the inner wheel hub seal fitment, I think it too narrow, but if the seal is installed correctly, it works OK...but with a better sealing surface (wider and a flange?) re-greasing could be done at longer intervals. I have not yet made the decision to modify for such. For the stock setup, I suggest using a 7mm THICKNESS seal. More on the seals, etc., later herein.
The entire suspension is mounted to the EML frame,
via THREE bolts.
These 10 mm bolts are grade 10.9
appropriate. Note that
standard torque for
grade 10 mm bolt is 53 foot-pounds.
threads are 1.5 mm pitch, the length is 70 mm. Use
similar nuts on all three bolts. The 3 holes in
'tubes' on the EML
frame fit these 10 mm bolts, but the
heavy metal bracket that contains the
pivot, etc., has ~12 mm
That means, depending on
the precision with
which EML did this bracket & frame tubes, there
be some TOE-IN adjustment available by loosening
these 3 bolts,
and moving the bracket slightly. Thus
one might be able to adjust toe-in
at the suspension itself,
and not just by the chair-to-tug fastenings/struts.
I set my toe-in to between 5/16" to 3/8", with the rider on the seat, & no sidecar passenger. This may be a bit too little for YOU. The toe-in for this type of sidecar rig, with car tires, should be, in MY opinion, in the neighborhood of 1/4 to 1 inch. I suggest that if you are beginning the alignment setup, with no prior history, you use 1/2" initially. If you have loosened or removed the three-bolt mount, be sure to check the toe-in, before final tightening. I found the in-board bolt installed from the TOP, which means to remove the assembly, one needed to remove the tub! I cut the bolt & installed a new one from the bottom. Yes, that is theoretically not quite as safe.
Supposedly the axle is non-concentric & thus adjustable, for toe-in. I suggest you don't do it that way, but it is your choice, IF...IF...yours is eccentric. I have never seen a non-concentric GT2 axle setup.
The pivot shaft (& pivot bearing) will probably frustrate you,
slowly & methodically. By the time you try to
remove the shaft from the
bearing, it may be rusted &
difficult to remove. Soak in a penetrating solvent
PB Blaster or Kroil, or, better yet, 50-50 mixture of ATF
& acetone (add kerosene for slower evaporation),
for a day or three (add some of the mixture now
& then); use a very sturdy
puller...the end of the shaft has a
nice little hole for your puller center bolt.
The pivot contains
a sealed two-row ball bearing, probably FAG type 529891C.
This bearing is probably cataloged as 60 mm, but is likely actually
60.03 mm in diameter. I installed a Federal Mogul (Timken or
SKF) equivalent, #513116. I think there
equivalents, including a brand seldom seen in the USA,
EML has fitted this bearing with, in my
estimation, too tight a fit into the pivot
housing, requiring a
quite powerful hydraulic press, so be very sure the pivot
cavity is quite well cleaned & smooth, etc., before installing
a new bearing. Chamfer the pivot entrance edge to accept the bearing,
which MUST be installed
SQUARELY to the pivot. The
bearing is pressed into the pivot area from one
side; so must
be removed to one side. The bearing will almost surely require
the mentioned strong hydraulic press to remove, but a new
one can be installed
in a large bench vise; be VERY careful
to begin that SQUARELY! Use oil, & use
soft square jaws
on the vise. Before the new bearing is fully home; again
the last area it will be pressed into, and use the
old bearing shell as the driver
for that last little bit.
If you loosen the cotter key & then loosen that castle nut, this will relieve pressure on the 30 mm shaft going through the pivot area. You then will be UNable to retighten it if yours was like mine, as the body of the sidecar is in the way of getting a large allen wrench into the inside recess of this shaft...you will then have to remove the entire suspension setup. Because of this I suggest NOT loosening the castle nut unless your pivot bearing is bad. I also suggest not trying to defeat the design by drilling and adding a couple of roll pins, nor should you try welding. The bearing was used on a number of cars including old Volvo's; Fiat's, and Yugo's, ETC.
The 30 mm shaft may be somewhat corroded, so clean it up quite well. It is a MILD press-fit into the pivot bearing. There is a washer on the inside to take up the space of the pivot cavity inner end wall thickness. There was a funny washer on the outside of mine...see the plate notation in the photo below. You do need some sort of flat washer here. I originally had no idea why the tang of that washer had a small drilled & threaded hole; but have now been told that the brake line had some sort of secure clamp fitting there. Was not on mine, & I see no reason for its use for the brake line IF USING THE TYPE OF BRAKE CALIPER THAT WAS ON MY SIDECAR, SEE THE PHOTO FOR MY LINE'S ROUTING. The nut need not be grossly tight, this is not some sort of preload adjustment, so it should be tightened reasonably, then a NEW cotter key installed.
In the above photo, my stock EML-supplied caliper is a Brembo type F05. It is what is called a
as opposed to a LEFT caliper.
If mine was rotated &
reversed, it would
look like the RIGHT photo below. In the
due to the closeness of the inside of the
15" EML wheel,
the caliper bleeder valve has been ground
down shorter. That
makes it unusable for fitting a hose for
proper yearly bleeding, so a proper
bleeder valve is inserted in
place of that one, when
bleeding this brake. I have NOT had
problems by just installing a proper long bleeder valve,
bleeding, & then, NOT touching the brake pedal,
unfastening that valve & reinstalling the shortened one.
Very little fluid (a few drops) flows out during that quick procedure...and I have NOT had problems; the brake remains bled.
Calipers, Pads and Rebuilt Kits: As noted, the Brembo caliper on my GT2 is Brembo
model F05, which has 94 mm mounting centers. Mine
has a casting number on it: 20.2677.00. Mine has a
stamped on the outer face: 19C7 This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons; is the same
as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65, V50; etc.
This model caliper was very popular & was used on
many vehicles. The caliper is available in both Right &
Left hand versions, so be SURE... if you replace an
entire caliper...that you get the correct one. As noted above,
one in my EML is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type.
The bleeder valve is a standard 6 mm threaded type but with 8 mm hex. I have thought about looking into modifying the disc and caliper mounting or reversing the caliper or changing it or modifying the threaded holes. It seems like a waste of labor and possibly parts, so have not done anything, except I have obtained a short version of a bleeder valve, which I am going to try, perhaps modify (I got TWO just for this) to see if that will work...on my next bleeding.
SOME Grimeca calipers and pads are interchangeable with Brembo, but there is no problem finding Brembo parts, from such as vintagebrake.com
Left F08 caliper "Right" F08 caliper
Note that these are F08 caliper photos, as I did not have similar good photos for the actual F05 caliper on the sidecar. F08 & F05 look similar to each other, the F08 being bigger. Be SURE to read onwards a few paragraphs, about the Left, Right, etc....
If you are going to purchase a caliper, have it next to the photos....or, better yet, photograph it for vintagebrake.com. Be sure to get the proper handed one that matches yours! LOOK CAREFULLY!!!...many have had 'Left & Right' confuse them.
Calipers, Pads and Rebuilt Kits:
As noted, the Brembo caliper on my GT2 is Brembo model F05, which has 94 mm mounting centers. Mine has a casting number on it: 20.2677.00. Mine has a model number stamped on the outer face: 19C7
This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons; is the same as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65, V50; etc. This model caliper was very popular & was used on many vehicles. The caliper is available in both Right & Left hand versions, so be SURE... if you replace an entire caliper...that you get the correct one. As noted above, the one in my EML is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type.Photos of calipers on the Internet may be confusing, if the view is from the back-side, instead of the front-side; as the EML mounting is typically reversed from Internet photos. The F08 photos above are from the front-side. The F08 in the photo is, as noted, almost identical LOOKING to the F05, but has 108 mm mounting centers & 38 mm opposed pistons.
The casting number is not necessarily the same number as the factory caliper number. As an example of this, the factory numbers for a right hand standard F05 is 20.2676.40; for the left hand standard it is 20.2676.41. The factory also has a Gold Line, using the 10.3677.xx numbers, & there is a special LH narrow type, that uses a thin 3.8 mm disc thickness, as 20.4366.21. So, be careful with what you order. A good brake supply specialist knows the details.Michael Morse is a good source of information...and parts: http://www.vintagebrake.com (209) 533-4346 firstname.lastname@example.org
Pads: Really good C.O.F. (Coefficient Of Friction) organic pads are the Ferodo 'Platinum' pads...these are especially good with cast iron rotors, such as EML used.
Unconfirmed by me is that pads may be for REAR brake for above
Guzzi models & others. However, pads that were reported to fit
& work OK were identified as being marked (by all these numbers)
on the package: KBA61084 400 Platinum DP601 FA47.
Package also seemed to indicate Ferodo FD3207P 4541029.
I think that the package numbering might have been too difficult
to read, and the real number was FDB207P, the P standing for
the "Platinum" pads.
F05 pads are available in numerous
formulations. You want one that
is compatible with YOUR disc,
which is probably cast iron like mine was.
From another source, supposedly at EML, came Ferodo numbers FD7266 (might be 072686)...but might not be for this GT2 model. I can't find those numbers. Nor can I confirm the Ferodo number D346GG nor Brembo 07.2686.13; which might be for an earlier model caliper??...or the F05??? More research needed here.
NOTES: for most folks, the C.O.F. & amount of braking on a sidecar can be widely different without problems. For those who ride vigorously/spiritedly, & use the sidecar brake by itself for sharp turning; or, have problems stopping in a straight line, it is more important. Sidecar conversions can have widely differing rear & front braking systems on the tug & sidecar. EML uses hydraulic brakes. Some folks plumb the sidecar brake INTO the tug system, front or rear or combined; or, have a separate pedal, often to a MC that couples only to the EML disc caliper. Because there are such widely differing systems, including some with ABS or linked, etc., I am hesitant to say to "only" use the Ferodo Platinum....BUT...I think that it WOULD BE BEST to use that pad, & if braking is TOO MUCH on the sidecar, & cannot be adjusted lower by whatever other means, then a modification to the pads is easy to do & is likely to be effective. For most of you, I doubt you will have any problems & will NOT need to modify the pads.
NOTE: My tug is a BMW K1100LT, which, as delivered from BMW, comes
with a 12 mm Magura-made rear brake Master Cylinder. That MC is too
small in bore (piston size) for proper brake pedal movement when the
rear braking system is plumbed into the EML disc brake. The Magura MC
was, therefore, changed to 16 mm. EML did this, as well as EZS. I had
a rather difficult time finding out about the Magura details, so I thought
I'd list them here:
NOTE that EML has their OWN master cylinders, & what you see here is NOT necessarily what is on YOUR sidecar rig.
Keep in mind that the information that follows is for MY rig.
When someone replaces a BMW master cylinder, they often just throw
that extension piece, as the new MC comes with one. See your
dealership, they may be able to give you the extension
piece if you need one, from their old box of trash parts. I obtained some
worn-out stock 12 mm BMW rear
Magura cylinders. These had the
extension piece that is in the photo, below.
They DO come with the
cylinder from BMW.
The 12 mm cylinder has a smaller bore INSIDE the piston where this extension piece (pin) fits. Thus, my guess is that the 16 mm cylinder, which has a larger inside piston bore, uses a larger diameter pin. The 12 mm unit's pin will work in the 16 mm cylinder but is not as nice as if a large diameter extension piece (pin) was available....and, so far, that is likely to be found ONLY in the Magura 16 mm repair kit!...BUT:
See the larger photo below, and the "O-ring...why?", in red that I put on the photo. I think it was used so the extension pin would properly fit & be more or less captive in the BMW 12 mm piston diameter MC. A look at some of the Master Cylinders shows my thoughts are probably correct.
far, no proof that the Magura 16 mm rebuild kit
comes with a larger
As you can see from the photos, the brake disc mounts
to the hub using 8 bolts.
The outside diameter of my disc
measured 198 to 200 mm, and the EML specification sheet
says 200 mm, so that is fine, and looking at where the
caliper fits with its pads sweeping the disc area, the disc
could be OK at 7-3/4" diameter (197 mm). My old disc is
marked 0.18", whatever that REALLY means. The disc
thickness, used condition, was 0.175", which is 4.445 mm.
I suspected they were 4.5 mm when new; a standard size
for many discs used on bikes; but it appears that new they
are 5.0 mm, because I have obtained a brand-new disc
from EML, the brand-new disc thickness:
Pads area: 0.198"; black hub area 0.202"
Inner seal is 32 x 52 x 7 mm; do not use 6 mm, see next
section for why. Seal numbers could be Timken TC12507
Outer seal is 30 x 52 x 7 mm. Seal numbers could be Timken 702880, National S-11510, etc.
Bearings I installed are both 6205-C3. The particular bearings I used were made by SKF, and were 6205-2RSJEM, in C-3 grade. Any QUALITY 6205-C3 bearing can be used. Do NOT use bearings from China, Russia, etc. Whether you use an open or sealed bearing is up to you.
NOTE: When I removed the old bearings, I found the inner
bearing to be 6205-2RS1/C HT51. This is a sealed type.
I found the outer (wheel side) bearing to be 6205-2Z/C HT51.
NOTE: EML wheel bearings and seals are somewhat notorious for failing
...and this is due to lack of maintenance and because they are
not really well sealed. If you let the bearing go too long between
servicing, your eventual cost will be $$$. I suggest 18,000 mile
intervals; and somewhat sooner if you drive a lot on very wet
roads, or very dirty road areas. If you clean/lube your wheel
bearings & install fresh seals, properly, you probably will never
have to replace the bearings.
If replacing bearings:
If any metal is proud into the bore, fix that first, so the bearing, which is a close fit, can be easily removed in the following procedure. Heat the hub on an electric hot plate. The hot plate should have a metal covering or plate, don't use it just with the electric coils showing. Set the outer, aluminum flange wheel mounting area DOWN onto the hot plate. The proper amount of heat is until a wetted finger sizzles when touched to the top aluminum hub where the bearing enters. You can put a dry towel over the unit to help heating. Using leather or cloth gloves, & if need be a flat end drift & very small hammer (carefully, to avoid nicking or scraping the bore), push or lightly hammer the bearings out from the other side; repeat for both. They might even fall out. Don't loose the inner sleeve.
Allow the hub assembly to cool. Clean the counter-bore very carefully. Use rags & evaporating solvents. Don't leave anything at the sharp lower corner of the counterbore. If there is not a very smooth & SMALL radius for the bearing entry on both sides of the hub assembly, make them so. Be SURE the counter-bore & hub bore is clean after this. Clean the inner sleeve.
Find something, perhaps an old large socket, that is a SLIGHTLY smaller diameter than the counter-bore, that the hub assembly can rest on, when cooling.
Chill the new bearings in your freezer. Reheat the hub, exactly as before. At the sizzle temperature of the aluminum hub area where the bearing enters, using leather or cloth gloves, drop the new bearing into the top hub, squarely. It should slide right in without any pressure. If you do not do this squarely the bearing will not slide right in. Keeping the bearing in place with a finger or two of one hand, turn the hub over, & install the SLEEVE, & then the other bearing. Immediately, while the hub is still at sizzle temperature, place the hub with its new bearings & the sleeve over the old large socket that fits into the counterbore area & set the entire assembly on a table to cool. Be sure the top bearing is seated. The outer hub should be UP, disc DOWN. The bearings should have remained FULLY installed. BE SURE that they are. Let the hub cool to close to room temperature, set the hub on the bench, either side up is OK from now on.
Installing the seals:
Place fresh grease liberally into a seal's open end. Install the seal, using an old socket that is a just a wee bit smaller in diameter than the seal outside diameter. Install the seal EVENLY and SQUARELY, open greased end towards the new bearing. Lubricate the seal lip with grease. Do the other side with the other seal in the same manner. Be very careful not to nick the seal inner lip(s).
The hub is now almost ready to be reinstalled. If need be, polish, with very fine grit sandpaper, the suspension lip; be sure its outer edge is not sharp. If the lip is gritty, it will wear out the new seal in short order, so clean the suspension lip & bore area. Clean up the axle if needed; must be no proud metal; just smooth, clean, & not too sharp-edged, so things will push together smoothly. Be sure the suspension lip is smooth, & greased lightly, and the axle over its length, including the seal area next to the double D flatted area!
Reassemble the caliper, etc. to the suspension. Inspect the caliper pads, caliper pistons, etc., for dirt before assembling. DO NOT KINK THE HYDRAULIC HOSE, not even for an instant....you can ruin the tiny thin hidden plastic tubing that is inside.
Shock absorber & Spring unit:
EML (W-TEC) has informed me, in November 2016, that NO parts for this shockabsorber/spring unit are available.
Numbers below (#x and #xx) refer to my below photo of the disassembled unit
Iwill describing this shock absorber as having a top & a bottom. The shock absorber is installed with the Adjustor (18) slanted DOWNward, so that end is the "bottom", as I describe things here.
The Adjustor (18) has finely pitched internal threads, mating to hidden threads (when assembled) on the outside of the shock absorber body item 16. Numerous turns of this Adjustor can be made. The adjustment is for preload on the SPRING, to set ride height for weight being carried. The Adjustor does NOT adjust the shock absorber internals. The Adjustor (18) is internally threaded nearly its entire length, so it can be adjusted fairly high, as well as quite low. Item #14 sits just above this Adjustor (8), and between them is one of the O-rings, item #15. Item #14 is lightly close fitting, but movable, on the shock body (16). More about item #14 well below, in more than one place.
Free standing length: 7.75"
Coils diameter: 0.300" as stock, chrome plated
Outside diameter: 2.325"
You MAY have to fashion some sort of a press, if the EML spring on your shock is longer than the one on mine.... to allow you to remove the keeper (#12).... so the spring (#13) can be removed.Do NOT scratch or nick the piston ROD!! I did NOT have to use a press, as when I unscrewed #18 far enough but nowhere near the end of threads, nor even near covering any of the eye....I could press with my fingers on the upper spring area, and remove the keeper relatively easily.
NOTE!...Spring (#13) fits INto the top of item #14. There MAY be a difference between one end of YOUR spring and the other end, be sure you fit the spring so it SEATS on the LIP of #14. See note later on my making of a replacement spring perch (14).
After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand pressure,
moving the eye
ends (11 and (17), towards and away from each other, at varying
amounts of rod depth &
speed. Do this with the Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, & the
unit vertical. When a shock
absorber fails, it usually does so from fluid leaking
by the top seals (9 and 9A) (mine is, however, slowly failing from the two item #4
discs, ...one already has disintegrated), and the
resulting failure from the loss of oil
is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for small or modest up & down
movements of the piston ROD. Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, & middle,
& near fully-in
positions, checking EACH POSITION with a short movement. Move
it over the full range in one
motion too. Dead spots are NOT acceptable. A good
shock unit has NO dead spots over any
part of its normal travel. The major
reason for a dead spot on this type of shock absorber is a
lack of enough oil.
Since the shock's normal position with a light load in the sidecar is with the
unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too. The amount of oil
will vary depending on if a shock is completely cleaned, dry, and empty,
and if just a fluid change.
Because of that, I have not specified a quantity.
These shock absorbers will also fail from break-up of disc, item #4.
Not being able to locate the original seals, & NOT being happy with the lower seal, I decided to install standard industrial lipped seals, of the type backed up on one side, with a 'garter spring'. These only work FAIR...& I may replace them at some future date, modifying the cover, item 8, if I have to. May be moot point if cannot substitute something, or rework the area of item #4....as Items #4 are failing, in fact one item #4 broke apart, and I am using just one item #4 at present. I may have to get a new shock absorber, and I very much doubt I will use an EML.
After you remove the top cap (8) with a pin wrench and have removed the internal
you will find that the steel shock absorber body (16) contains a precision
INternal sleeve, in its lower body area. It is inside this sleeve that the piston (3) &
other parts operate.
It is CRITICAL that parts, especially the steel plates & piston, be installed correctly, in the correct order! NOTE ESPECIALLY the fitment of the domed washer (#5), the DOME fits DOWNward against the steel plates (#4)!
Item #14, the spring perch, has a step in it to fit into the spring. The step locates the
concentrically to the shock absorber body, so that the spring can not move
sideways & touch
the body, where it would wear the body, but more importantly, would
make squeaking noises. Item 14 seemed to be very hard rubber & was in poor
condition on my shock absorber, &
fit much too tightly to the body, particularly the OD
threads area. If yours is OK, you should
make sure it slides easily onto the shock
body, making item #18 easier to adjust. I threw away #14, & made a new one out
of aluminum on my lathe. I put a slight relief on its underside
for the #15 O-ring,
although this is hardly necessary. Item 15 could be eliminated.
Item #2 is a 13 mm hex nut. Item #4 consists of TWO thin flexible steel washer-plates, and TWO are needed, for additional strength & proper valving. One of mine deteriorated badly, broke-up, and I am presently using just one...and I expect it to fail soon. As noted, above, EML wanted me to ship the entire shock absorber to them. I am NOT going to do this. EML would not sell the discs, not sure if they even have them.
This shock absorber works in BOTH directions; its action in those directions
NOT equal, by design. That is, the 'bound-rebound' are quite different.
The unit is velocity sensitive. The fit of the piston (3) to the inside lower body
ensures that relatively little oil under mild road irregularities will go
through the piston. That is controlled by the thin steel flexible discs. The
notches in the aluminum Slider, together with the lower steel plates (4, 5) &
piston (3) holes, & the #4 plates, all
determine many of the characteristics
of the shock absorber (together with the
diameter of the piston, etc).
Shock Absorber fluid quantity & recommendations, etc.
SOME of this is a repeat of a previous paragraph.
After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand
the eye ends (11 & (17), towards & away from each
other, at varying amounts of rod depth
& speed. Do this with the
Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, & the unit vertical. When these shock absorbers fail, it usually does so like most shocks: from fluid leaking by the top seals (9 and 9A), although ring (item #4) can also break. A too little oil failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for small or modest up & down movements of the piston ROD. Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, & middle, & near fully-in positions, checking EACH POSITION with a short movement back & forth slightly, IN that position; ALSO move it over the full range in
one motion. Dead spots
are NOT acceptable. A good shock unit has NO dead spots over
part of its normal travel. The major reason for a dead
spot on this type of shock
absorber is a lack of enough oil. Since the
shock's normal position with a light load in the
sidecar is with the shock
unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.
amount of oil needed will vary depending on if a shock is completely
& empty, or if just a fluid change. Because of that, I have
not specified a quantity.
The shock unit I worked on for this article had a very few ounces of fluid left in it. I set up a crude apparatus to measure the oil viscosity at room temperature, as best I could. I compared the oil with known viscosity suspension/shock fluid oils. I used the same temperature (55°F happened to be the temperature in the shop that day) for all tests. I measured the time in seconds for the same amount of fluid to flow, from a same size tiny diameter of outlet, from a same tallness and filling of container. Admittedly a crude method; none-the-less it gave reasonably repeatable results. I tested quite a few synthetic & part-synthetic fork oils & suspension fluids. I used a well-known high quality & reliable brand, so all tests would be repeatable & usable from the ONE manufacturer's stated specifications. It is not widely known that shock & suspension fluids will vary considerably between brands, with the same 'stated' viscosity. There is an article on this website, that discusses & lists many manufacturer's oils, & has actual commercial laboratory tests on them, INCLUDING the two oils I have used in this EML 310 shock absorber: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/viscosity.htm
The fluid I selected for my first try at a 'final type of oil' was Golden Spectro Shock Fluid, Ultra Light, code L.SFUL. The L just means it came in one liter size bottle. It has a manufacturer's specification at 40°C of 10.4 cST, and a VI of 385. That should be good in this application. While there are formulas on this website to convert cST to SUS, I will do it for you: SUS = 61.
The K1100LT (and all early Classic K bikes) incorporates a bulb monitoring relay black box, often called a Bulb Monitoring Unit, BMU, that is rather complicated in how it works. There are two versions, using the same identical number on them. You may want to modify this relay. I have a photo, and details, in item #2 in this article: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/K-hints.htm
I spent many hours figuring all this out. I hope, that if you need a lamp assembly, or even just the lens, that you will find all this information useful. I did not need the assembly, nor the lens, but went to a LOT of effort to get the details, and then find/purchase an assembly. The longer I waited, I assumed the harder it would be to obtain such items. I am very anal about wanting spare parts.
I obtained my spare assembly from SUZI FOUR company.
Their address is 112 Dunheved Circuit; Nth St Marys NSW 2760
E-mail is: email@example.com
On the internet: www.suzukiwreckers.com.au
Telephone (02) 9833 0216
Fax (02) 9833 1784
Below, a poor photo, but it is of what I believe IS THE SOURCE for the rear taillight assembly of the EML GT2 & GT3. The proper lens for the sidecar is the right rear, not the left rear of the car. See the red arrow I put on the photo!
Below is a closeup photo of the
right rear plastic lens on my GT2. The right
side of the lens DOES slightly wrap around the sidecar body. Colors may be
slightly off or less brilliant, due
to the camera flash and my slightly manipulating the photo to try to show the wrapping.
Front Light housing:
Possibly Mazda part BZ0189662 ??? It is still unclear what the number really is.
Front Light plastic lens: My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
210-41788R Jap. "Koito" brand with markings: <716
The spare/replacement assembly I obtained from Dave Edwards, below, had the same sort of plastic lens, but different numbers on it.
The first photo, below, shows the front lamp as used on the Mazda 323
Notchback. The following photo, with a different angle, shows the same
lamp (YES, it IS!) on my GT2. Angle of photography makes it look different.
Dave Edwards got his hands on some brand-new FRONT lamp
assemblies, including outer lens, etc.
Contact him directly: firstname.lastname@example.org
Dave Edwards got his hands on some brand-new FRONT lamp
assemblies, including outer lens, etc.
NOTE! There is an EML sidecar group on the Internet: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/EML_SCL/. I am a Member, Moderator, and Participant.
I am looking for:
1. Some of the steel flexible discs item #4 in the EML shock absorber sketch; or, the whole shock (??)
2. Top oil seals (all of these rubber bits) for this same shock
snowbum E-mail address: CLICK
Revisions and dates:
01/23/2007: annotations, pad information, information on lenses
01/27/2007: minor editing and clarifications
02/21/2007: update brake pads, calipers, and kit information
02/28/2007: More info...Flexit, EZS, etc.
04/25/2007: Add Magura information
05/23/2007: Put ELECTRICS in sequence, clean up page appearance slightly; minor updates.
07/18/2007: Add hyperlink
09/17/2007: Add information on old EML front marker lamps
10/13/2007: Add 4 photos of very early EML and Grimeca brake
02/16/2008: Updated information about EML, Eurowing, & EML Yahoo groups website
03/15/2008: Removed Flexit information, which will be put in its own article
05/05/2008: Add right rear view of my rig, for a view of the top I built.
09/18/2008: Add section with hyperlinks to the EML old brochure
10/06/2008: very minor updating on EZS
03/27-28/2009: Begin to add information on PIVOT & additional information on the shock unit.
03/29/2008: Complete the information on the shock unit.
03/31/2009: Add more information on the pivot bearing.
04/04/2009: Complete pivot reassembly & toe-in, ETC., & update this article. Release to Internet.
04/26/2010: fix hyperlink to .taw
07/21/2010: Add sale items
07/26/2010: Remove sale items
11/04/2010: Remove old brochure photos and their links, in favor of new, better photos.
02/27/2011: Remove bad hyperlink
03/29/2011: Add photos and information about Dave Edwards, regarding the front lamp assembly
03/30/2011: Remove references to Dave Edwards, regarding availability of front lens and lamp assembly, as all are now sold.
04/07/2011: Clean up article so it is easier to read and understand.
05/26/2011: Even more cleanup
06/22/2011: add reference to the front lamps again, as two more are available.
06/29/2011: Add annotated photo of the TUG rim
07/13/2011: Fix bad hyperlinks for vintagebrake
08/17/2012: Add some information on disc dimensions
08/22/2012: Add line & link to K-hints, for bulb monitoring relay information in the Electrics section
08/30/2012: Add QR code, change Google code, add small amount of information on rear taillight housing.
09/03/2012: Add photo and comment for the Suzuki Alto rear.
05/06/2013: Add a bit of information about Eurowing communications in April 2013.
05/14/2013: Modify Hella lamp info.
06/27/2013: Add Grimeca factory hyperlink
07/18/2013: Add some seal numbers.
08/11/2013: Add availability of front lamp assemblies from David Edwards.
08/19/2013: Add availability of the Firestone F560 tires
02/17/2014: Minor updates, clean up article a bit too
05/08/2014: Add information about weight measurements for my GT2, as attached.
07/29/2014: Update information on the shock absorber unit
09/06/2014: Clean up article a bit more
04/08/2015: Add confirmation on the rear light, provided by Al Olme; who obtained it from Remco.
04/10/2015: Add photo of lense of my GT2, and comments on it.
04/13/2015: Add note regarding Suzuki models that seem confirmed as having that rear lense, slight update on E.ML.
04/18/2015: Clarified some details on that rear lense.
04/30/2015: Obtained a spare rear lamp assembly, and updated this article with the information.
05/07/2015: Clarify that oil quantity is not specified, and that tests show correct amount, move copy of paragraph downwards for clarity.
06/22/2015: Add more photos: Grimeca caliper, pads, dimensions. Very minor update on wanted stuff on 08/19/2015
12/07/2015: Brand-new disc information. Clean up article, fix meta-coding, move article to left side justification and narrowed article.
02/17/2016: Larger fonts. Update meta-codes. Justify left. Fix horizontal lines. Clean up article some. Go back to how the brochures were originally displayed, long ago, even though the top of the article will be much wider, and harder to use on Smart Phones.
03/02/2016: Final updating of meta-codes and narrowing, etc.
03/16/2016: Add front strut measurements.
06/11/2016: Updating metacodes, scripts, horizontal lines, layout, colors. Quite a bit of improvement in clarity of information.
11/28/2016: Add note about no shock unit parts being available from EML/W-TEC
©Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
Return to Technical Articles LIST Page
Return to HomePage
Last check/edit: Monday, November 28, 2016