The ads above are Google-sponsored;
clicking on them at every visit & looking at them helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!

EML sidecars
Photos and technical information; repairs, etc.
Early advertising brochure. 
Background on EZS.
PLUS: Step by step how-to article regarding suspension parts overhaul.
Technical information on the early GT2 (two front hinges) & late model GT2 (single front hinge)
  Many technical items may be correct for earlier models such as Tour-T, ETC.

This article contains some large scans/photos. 
Allow time to load if you are on a slow connection.
Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
sidecar section #SC8

This is a scan of all 4 pages of an old EML brochure that includes photos of the
single front hinge GT2, Midi, Tour, Mini, GT3E, & Speedline.  The rear page of
this brochure has specifications for all those and GTE and GT3.











































































Note:  The GT2 and GT3 were discontinued ~1990

Who is EML?...AND......what about EZS? 

EML  is  E.ML    Even though the sales brochure says E.M.L.
Note the period after the E in E.ML.    The letters EML stand for Eigen MakeLij, which means
"own making" or "home-made"....and actually refers to their off road sidecars.

E.ML was founded by Hennie Winkelhuis...references to him, mostly in Dutch, can be found by
a Google search on the Internet...he was heavily involved in racing, W-Tec, quads, Paris Dakar, etc.   
He was born in 1948, and died in May 2007.  

E.ML Engineering Holland BV:
Near as I can tell, their original address was 20 Magnolia Street.
They moved to:
Handlelsweg2; NL-7161 BV Neede           (pronounced NAYDA)
The Netherlands.
 +31-0-545-292-154; fax +31-0-545-292-205.   
EML is not always very responsive with E-mails, but you can try   

EML has had major financial problems over the years.....I have heard of bankruptcy's, etc. 
I don't know the present status as it may change at any time.

Since the above was written, EML as such no longer exists, but is now WTech. The situation
for older EML parts is unclear.  I have been told EML and W-Tech are the same, from the
EML distributor in the USA.

Communications has been made, 2015.... with:
Remco Winkelhuis  with E-mail to:  Remco must be related to E.ML founder
Hennie Winkelhuis...?

If contacting him, try to use Dutch, rather than English....(this is not yet confirmed)

update:  04/13/2015:  Al Olme says that W-TEC is making sidecars and trikes under the EML name.


So, who is EZS?
EZS is another manufacturer of quality sidecars and mounts, ETC.
The letters EZS stand for Engbers Zijspan Service.  They are located in Zelhem, Holland.  
Albert Engbers "IS"...well "WAS"  EZS.....the founder, the owner, the designer, and the constructor. 
In 2008 he passed EZS to his son, Dave Engbers.       e-mail:

These two manufacturer's, E.ML and EZS, are less than 30 miles apart, but have no ties.  

EML and EZS both made a very considerable part of their sidecars and associated parts for the tugs...
such as the suspension parts, subframes, sidecar tubes, suspensions, etc..., and made
hundreds of sidecars a year, in the past. 

There is an EML sidecar group:

Snowbum is a Member, Moderator, and Participant.

There is a database being developed, ever so slowly on that website, for parts, etc.

EML has a representative in the USA, called Eurowing.   They are in Hialeah, Florida, website
link is below.   They may be able to provide SOME parts for the older models.  My experience
with Eurowing was LOUSY,  almost completely un-cooperative, downright lying about
parts availability & ordering of same, saying things are enroute when they never had
any intention of even trying to order parts.   Just terrible non-service.    In all my years
of dealing with a lot of companies in the motorcycle industry, they, maybe, are the worst.

Bottom of that linked page has phone numbers, etc. Good Luck.  Let me know if you
manage to buy ANYTHING for an EML, etc.

****In early April of 2013, on a whim, I decided to contact the above folks again, after
several years previously having tried to get parts...this time to, again, see if EML
sidecar parts were available.  This is where the message was sent-to; and who
initially replied to me:

Lydia Pearce
2800 W 84 Street Bay 1
Hialeah,Florida 33018
ph: 786-452-0641

The final message from them TO ME was in 7 April 2013, was this, note the name Sali:

"""W-Tec or EML  is the same company , will forward your request to our factory, as soon as we have
a reply will let you know .       Regards    Sali  EurowingUSA"""

There was NEVER any further contact by Eurowing, in ANY manner.

Update 2015:
  Al Olme has been in contact with Eurowing, and has
gotten parts!  I got my new disc for the disc brake of my GT2, via Al's
order to EuroWing.  Perhaps they have gotten the message from EML
that they need to be more business-like.  MORE when I have more!

The meat of this article begins here:

My personal sidecar rig is the single-front-hinge GT2 model; it is pulled by an early 1993 model (produced
June 1992) BMW K1100LT. 

If you look at the brochure pages at the beginning of this article, you will find dimensions, weight, etc. for
the EML sidecar.  I have NOT confirmed the empty weight of the entire sidecar by itself because I never
weighed mine separately.  EML published that in the brochure as 123kg, which is 271 pounds. 

I have measured my GT2 for weight at the tire-to-surface point.   The tire was a Nankang N-803 model,
about 85% worn, in size 135R15.   The wheel was standard as were suspension parts.  NOTE that weight
on the sidecar wheel will also depend on the distance the sidecar wheel is from the centerline of the tug. 
For my rig, the center-line of the tug rear tire to the center-line of the sidecar tire, as if there was no wheel
lead, is 53-1/2". 
For all weight measurements I did the sidecar had ~10 pounds of brackets for the seat,
etc.; it was attached to my tug & the sidecar had approximately 23 pounds of weight (tools, water, etc.)
in the sidecar trunk, most of that 23 pounds was against the aft wall of the trunk.  The sidecar interior,
including trunk, has heavy industrial/hotel carpeting, perhaps a total of 25 pounds, the windshield is a
slightly width shortened full type, and the full heavy duty top I made, with tall roll bar, was on the sidecar. 
I measured, on an accurate scale, the weight the tire produced towards the ground (actually, 2.5" above
ground due to scale thickness).  It was 249 pounds.  If the scale height did not exist, the weight would be
VERY SLIGHTLY higher.  For a second test I had a passenger of 130 pounds sitting in the chair, centered
in the chair seat.   The result was 334 pounds. All these results were as expected. 

The wheel lead I use is 13-1/4".

Just below is a series of photos of a very early EML sidecar (this is NOT my sidecar), and of the brake
caliper & brake pads used for it.   This brake is the Grimeca; pads/parts are available from Michael
"Mercury" Morse, at  You can also contact the manufacturer, for information:

NOTE the LAMP on the SIDE of the BODY TOWARDS the front: 
 Al Olme noted that some early
EML sidecars (80's & earlier?) had that ugly-looking front lamp unit, a combination marker & amber turn
signal...bolted to the outside of the sidecar,... it protruded out as shown. 
Al says that it was made by
Hella, still available as 2 per box, under part 003014251, is not stocked in the USA, orderable from
P.U.M.A.   Contact "Paul" at (800)-354-3552.  
  An internet search will find other sources?

Note the differences between the EML marked and Grimeca marked calipers.


TWO photos of an early GT2 (TWO front hinges)
This EML sidecar opens without the front cover
purposely being on an angle as it is raised.


Everything following from this point
is of my own later model ONE hinge GT2

This stock EML hinge is purposely designed
so the sidecar opening part swings slightly
away from the motorcycle.  A close look at
the hinge will show that its central pin is NOT
at 90 to the sidecar body, thus the opened
body top swings away from the motorcycle.


The photo below shows the quite weatherproof top
I built from scratch.  The windows are removable
...or, can be rolled up.   There is a stiffening metal
flat thin bar going fore-aft, centered at the top, to keep the
canvas top from striking the head of the passenger
as speed increases (pressure created by oncoming
wind is downwards on the top).
Note my particular front windshield where it stops at the side.
The top was designed and likely way overbuilt,
with many stress-relieving joints/reinforcements.
The top is likely even more over-built on how the rear
bottom area is Velcro'd over TWO lengths of the
bottom flap (that you cannot see in this photo),
that wraps under and onto the fiberglass top.  
I wanted this top waterproof, and UNable to be
blown off at any speed and wind condition.  There
is also a FORWARD flap, with snaps, at this REAR
area.  Way overbuilt, perhaps.
The top material is the highest grade of a premium
boat cover material.   The amount of work that
went into this top was excessive...but it has
certainly held up and performed well, and still
looks almost like the day I finished it, years ago. 
It remains waterproof in a downpour.

I have a separate article with other views of this top
........and of other folk's EML tops:


Photos of my SIDECAR wheel:

TIRES for the sidecar are available from such as
Coker Tire Company. Presently I am using a
135R15 Firestone F560 tire. It came from Coker,
was very freshly made, and it replaced the well-worn
Nankang N-803 of the same size, that was on the
sidecar when I purchased it.  Coker owns the rights
and moulds for these Firestone tires, and others.


In the BELOW photo, this is the EZS rim used on my K1100LT tug.
Note the gradual slope on one side of the inside of the rim.

The original tires on the tug, when I purchased the sidecar rig, were
Firestone F590  165-70 R14, which are hard to find in the USA. 
I found one, and did replace the rear tire once.  I am presently
using a Mastercraft P175-70 A/S-IV on the tug rear, which has worked
well for me. That size MAY not easily fit the front (?), due to the limited clearance
between fender and tire, but I will eventually probably try it; and, if need-be,
modify the fender bracketry.  I am going to try 165-70 R14 tires, M + S, from China.

For those Canadians who do not want to, or cannot, deal with Coker, I have been
told that Firestone F560 tubeless blackwall radial tires are available in Canada:
                       Sylmar Auto Ville (
                       661 Stevens Street
                       Hawkesbury, Ontario
                       K6A 3K5



















This is a photo showing where the sidecar AXLE fits.

I am not fond of how EML designed the inner wheel hub seal fitment.
I think it too narrow, for instance; but if the seal is installed correctly,
it works OK...but re-greasing could be done at longer intervals with
a better sealing surface (wider would help, as would a flange of some
sort).   I have not yet made the decision to modify for such.
For the stock setup, I suggest using a 7mm THICKNESS seal. 
More on the seals, etc., later herein.

The entire suspension is mounted to the EML frame, via THREE bolts.
These 10 mm bolts are grade 10.9 which is appropriate. Note that
standard torque for a 10.9 grade 10 mm bolt is 53 foot-pounds.  
The bolt threads are 1.5 mm pitch, the length is 70 mm.  Use Nyloc or
similar nuts on all three bolts. The 3 holes in the welded 'tubes' on the EML
frame fit these 10 mm bolts, but the heavy metal bracket that contains the
pivot, etc., has
approximately 12 mm holes.   That means, depending on
the precision with which EML did this bracket & frame tubes, there
may be some TOE-IN adjustment available by loosening these 3 bolts,
and moving the bracket slightly.
  Thus one might be able to adjust toe-in
at the suspension itself, and not just by the chair-to-tug fastenings/struts.  

I set my toe-in to between 5/16" to 3/8", with the rider on the seat, & no
sidecar passenger.   If you have loosened or removed the three-bolt
mount, be sure to check the toe-in, before final tightening.
  I found
the in-board bolt installed from the TOP, which means to remove the
assembly, one needed to remove the tub!  I cut the bolt & installed a new
one from the bottom.  Yes, that is theoretically not quite as safe.   The
Toe-In for this type of sidecar rig, with car tires, should be, in MY opinion,
in the neighborhood of 1/4 to 1 inch. I suggest that if you are
beginning the alignment setup, with no prior history, that you use 1/2" initially.

Supposedly the axle is non-concentric & thus adjustable, for toe-in.  I
suggest you don't do it that way, but it is your choice, IF...IF...yours is eccentric.

The pivot shaft (& pivot bearing) will probably frustrate you a bit, so proceed
slowly & methodically.  By the time you try to remove the shaft from the
bearing, it may be rusted & difficult to remove.  Soak in a penetrating solvent
such as PB Blaster or Kroil, or, better yet, 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone,
for a day or three (add some of the mixture now & then); use a very sturdy
puller...the end of the shaft has a nice little hole for your puller center bolt. 
The pivot contains a sealed two-row ball bearing, probably FAG type 529891C. 
This bearing is probably cataloged as 60 mm, but is likely 60.03 mm in diameter. 
I installed a Federal Mogul (Timken or SKF) equivalent, #513116.  I think there
are several equivalents, including a brand seldom seen in the USA, Breda CR1863.   
EML has fitted this bearing with, in my estimation, too tight a fit into the pivot
housing, requiring a quite powerful hydraulic press, so be very sure the pivot
cavity is quite well cleaned & smooth, etc., before installing a new bearing.   
Chamfer the pivot entrance edge to accept the bearing, which MUST be installed
SQUARELY to the pivot.
The bearing is pressed into the pivot area from one
side; so must be removed to one side. The bearing will almost surely require
the mentioned strong hydraulic press to remove, but a new one can be installed
in a large bench vise; be VERY careful to begin that SQUARELY! Use oil, & use
soft square jaws on the vise. Before the new bearing is fully home again clean
the last area it will be pressed into, and use the old bearing shell as the driver
for that last little bit.
  NOTE that if you loosen the cotter key and then
loosen that castle nut,....this will relieve pressure on the 30 mm
shaft going through the pivot area.  You then will be UNable to
retighten it if yours was like mine, as the body of the sidecar is
in the way of getting a large allen wrench into the inside recess
of this will then have to remove the entire suspension
setup.  Because of this I suggest NOT loosening the castle nut
unless your pivot bearing is bad.
 I also suggest not trying to defeat the
design by drilling and adding a couple of roll pins, NOR, welding.    The bearing
was used on a number of cars including old Volvo's; Fiat's, and Yugo's, ETC. 

The 30 mm shaft may be somewhat corroded, so clean it up quite well.   It is a
MILD press-fit into the pivot bearing.  There is a washer on the inside to take up
the space of the pivot cavity inner end wall thickness.  There was a funny
washer on the outside of mine...see the plate notation in the photo below. 
You do need some sort of flat washer here.  I had no idea why the tang of that
washer had a small drilled/tapped hole; but have been told that the brake line
had some sort of secure clamp fitting there. Was not on mine.  The nut need not
be grossly tight, this is not some sort of preload adjustment, so it should be
tightened reasonably, then a NEW cotter key installed.

In the above photo, my stock EML-supplied caliper is a
Brembo type F05, and it is actually what is called a
RIGHT caliper.
  If rotated, and reversed, it would
look like the RIGHT photo below.
 In the above photo,
due to the closeness of the inside of the 15" EML wheel,
the caliper bleeder valve has been ground down.  That
makes it unusable for proper bleeding, so a proper
bleeder valve is inserted in place of that one, when
bleeding this brake....this CAN BE a pain in the butt!...
you could get air in the caliper.  I suggest that if you
have this sort of ground-down bleeder valve, that you
have someone put a wee bit of SLOW pressure on the
brake pedal as you remove the ground bleeder and
install your proper bleeder valve, do your system
bleeding, then reverse the procedure.   The bleeder
valve is a standard 6 mm threaded type but with
8 mm hex.
  I have thought about modifying the disc
and caliper mounting, but have not done it...yet.  I have
also obtained a short version of a bleeder valve, which
I am going to try, perhaps modify (I got TWO just for
this), and see if that will work...on my next bleeding.

SOME Grimeca calipers and pads are interchangeable
with Brembo,  but there is no problem finding Brembo
parts, from such as

Left F08 caliper    "Right" F08 caliper    
Note that these are F08 caliper photos, as I did not
have similar good photos for the actual F05 caliper
on the sidecar.  F08 & F05 look similar to each other,
the F08 being bigger.  Be SURE to read onwards a
few paragraphs, about the left, right, etc....


Calipers, Pads and Rebuilt Kits:

As noted, the Brembo caliper on my GT2 is Brembo
model F05, which has 94 mm mounting centers.  Mine
has a casting number on it:   20.2677.00.  Mine has a
model number stamped on the outer face:  19C7

This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons; is the same
as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65, V50;  etc. 
This model caliper was very popular & was used on
many vehicles.  The caliper is available in both a right &
left hand arrangement, so be SURE if you replace an
entire caliper you get the correct one.  As noted, the
one I have is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type.  
Photos of calipers
on the Internet may be confusing, if the view is from the
back-side, instead of the front-side; as the EML mounting
is typically reversed from Internet photos.  The F08 photos
above are from the front-side. 
The F08 in the photo is, as
noted, almost identical LOOKING caliper to the F05, but it
has 108 mm mounting centers and 38 mm opposed pistons.

If you are going to purchase a caliper, have it next to the
photos....or, better yet, photograph it for
Be sure to get the proper handed one that matches yours! 
many have had 'left & right' confuse them.

NOTE:  The casting number is not necessarily the same number
as the factory caliper number.  As an example of this, the
factory numbers for a right hand standard F05 is 20.2676.40;
for the left hand standard it is 20.2676.41.  The factory also
has a Gold Line, using the 10.3677.xx numbers, & there is a
special LH narrow type, that uses a thin 3.8 mm disc thickness,
as 20.4366.21.  So, be careful with what you order.  A good
brake supply specialist knows the details.
Michael Morse is a good source of information...and parts:  (209) 533-4346

The seal & rebuild kit for the F05 caliper is widely available,
it is Brembo 120.2799.10.
   Brembo seals are NOT compatible
with silicone fluids!  Use DOT3 or DOT 4, ONLY.  
calipers have always used hydraulic line fitting threads of
1.0 x 10 mm.   Do not mistake my words here for the
bleeder valve, which is smaller on mine.

Pads:   Really good C.O.F. (Coefficient Of Friction) organic pads
are the Ferodo 'Platinum' pads...these are especially good with
cast iron rotors, such as EML used.

Unconfirmed by me is that pads may be for REAR brake for above
Guzzi models & others.  However, pads that were reported to fit
& work OK were identified as being marked (by all these numbers)
on the package:   KBA61084   400  Platinum   DP601   FA47.      
Package also seemed to indicate Ferodo FD3207P   4541029   
I think that the package numbering might have been too difficult
to read, and the real number was FDB207P    the P standing for
the "Platinum" pads.
F05 pads are available in numerous formulations.  You want one that
is compatible with YOUR disc, which is probably cast iron like mine was.

From another source, supposedly at EML, came Ferodo numbers 
FD7266 (might be 072686)...but might not be for this GT2 model.  I
can't find those numbers.   Nor can I confirm the Ferodo number
D346GG nor Brembo 07.2686.13; which might be for an earlier model
caliper??...or the F05???  More research needed here.

NOTE:   for most folks, the C.O.F. & amount of braking on a sidecar
can be widely different without problems.    For those who ride
vigorously/spiritedly, & use the sidecar brake by itself for turning;
or, have problems stopping in a straight line, it is more important.    
Sidecar conversions can have widely differing rear & front braking
systems on the tug & sidecar.  EML uses hydraulic brakes.  Some
folks plumb the sidecar brake INTO the tug system, front or rear or
combined; or, have a separate pedal, often to a MC that couples only
to the EML disc caliper.  Because there are such widely differing
systems, including some with ABS or linked, etc., I am hesitant to
say to "only" use the Ferodo Platinum....BUT...
I think that it WOULD BE
best to use just that pad, & if braking is TOO MUCH on the sidecar,
& cannot be adjusted lower by whatever other means, that a modification
to the sidecar pads is probably easy to do & is likely to be very effective.   
For most of you, I doubt you will have any problems and will NOT need
to modify the pads.


Master Cylinders:

NOTE:   My tug is a BMW K1100LT, which, as delivered from BMW, comes
with a 12 mm Magura-made rear brake Master Cylinder.  That MC is too
small in bore (piston size) for proper brake pedal movement when the
rear braking system is plumbed into the EML disc brake.   The Magura MC
was, therefore, changed to 16 mm.   EML did this, as well as EZS.   I had
a rather difficult time finding out about the Magura details, so I thought
I'd list them here:

NOTE that EML has their OWN master cylinders, & what you see here is
NOT necessarily what is on YOUR sidecar rig.

Keep in mind that the information that follows is for MY rig.

Magura part number for the MC is 0131411.  It is also called a 700.33.    Magura
no longer makes the 0231410, also called 700.32 (16 mm-L). The only difference
is, AFAIK, the angle of the inlet for the reservoir.  The 16 mm Magura was used
not only by EML & EZS, but by KTM on their motorcycles.   For all practical purposes
these master cylinders are nearly identical.   Either can be made to fit.

Master Cylinders from Magura are made in three piston sizes:  12 mm, the 700.4,
probably what BMW used originally; 13 mm, the 700.12, BLACK, as used on the
K100 (It is possible that this size MIGHT work nicely, with added braking, on an
EML sidecar, but I have not tested that theory)
; and the 16 mm 700.33 or 700.32
which is silver colored.   Repair kits for any of them are available from Magura. 
For all these MC, the hydraulic line threads are M10 x 1.   For all these MC,
Magura says the 'hub' is 12 mm, and the stroke is 12 mm.   I measured the mounting
centers of mine at 45 mm.  

Below are two photos; one of the MC; the other photo is of the extension pin that fits
between the MC piston and the foot pedal rounded tip special screw.  In inspecting
the sidecar rig after it was delivered to me, I found I had problems with my MC.  I
replaced it.  The old extension piece was buggered, as was the BMW foot pedal
rounded tip special screw, 34-31-1-451-885.   I still have no part number for the
extension piece as in the is not, per Magura USA, a standard part from them. 
However, Magura of Germany says that the part is in the rebuild kits. 
BMW does not
list the extension pin separately, but its fiche shows that it is very likely part of the
rebuild kit.    The below photo has notes on it as I sent it to someone for help in
identifying that extension piece.   

***When someone replaces a BMW master cylinder, they often just throw away
that extension piece, as the new MC comes with one.   See your friendly BMW
dealership, they may be able to give you the extension piece if you need one,
from their old box of trash parts.   I got some worn-out stock 12 mm BMW rear
Magura cylinders.  These had the extension piece that is in the photo, below.  
They DO come with the cylinder from BMW. 

NOTE that the 12 mm cylinder has a smaller bore INSIDE the piston where this
extension piece fits!   It will work, but is not as nice as if a large diameter
extension piece was available....and, so far, that is likely to be found ONLY in
the Magura 16 mm repair kit!


See the larger photo above, and the "O-ring...why?", in red that I put on the photo.  
I think it MAYBE was used so the extension pin would properly fit and be captive in the
BMW 12 mm piston diameter MC.   So far, no proof that the Magura 16 mm rebuild kit
comes with a larger extension piece.

Details of the hub &suspension & information on replacing wheel bearings & seals
 (information on overhauling the shock/spring unit is later in this article):


As you can see from the photos, the brake disc mounts
to the hub using 8 bolts.  The outside diameter of my disc
measured 198 to 200 mm, and the EML specification sheet
says 200 mm, so that is fine, and looking at where the
caliper fits with its pads sweeping the disc area, the disc
could be OK at 7-3/4" diameter (197 mm).  My old disc is
marked 0.18", whatever that REALLY means. The disc
thickness, used condition, was 0.175", which is 4.445 mm. 
I suspected they were 4.5 mm when new; a standard size
for many discs used on bikes; but it appears that new they
are 5.0 mm, because I have obtained a brand-new disc
from EML, the brand-new disc thickness: 
Pads area:  0.198"; black hub area 0.202"

Inner seal is 32 x 52 x 7 mm; do not use 6 mm, see next
section for why.   Seal numbers could be Timken TC12507
or 702901.  Outer seal is 30 x 52 x 7 mm.  Seal numbers
could be Timken 702880, National S-11510, etc.
Bearings I installed are both 6205-C3.    The particular
bearings I used were made by SKF, and were 6205-2RSJEM,
in C-3 grade.   Any QUALITY 6205-C3 bearing can be used. 
Do NOT use bearings from China, Russia, etc.   Whether you
use an open or sealed bearing is up to you.

NOTE:  When I removed the old bearings, I found the inner
bearing to be 6205-2RS1/C  HT51.  This is a sealed type.  
I found the outer (wheel side) bearing to be 6205-2Z/C HT51.

R/R wheel hub bearings & seals (if just cleaning, lubricating, & replacing seals,
there is no need to heat the hub):

Remove the wheel/tire (btw, I never tighten beyond 50 Nm when installing).  Remove
the two 13 mm allen bolts holding the caliper to the suspension.  Lift off the caliper
from the disc, and set the caliper slightly to the rear, being careful not to kink the hose.
Do NOT operate the brake pedal or lever, as case may be, whilst the caliper is out of
the disc.  If you worry about this, insert something into the caliper between the pads.

Remove the cotter key at the tub side of the axle at the castellated nut.   Put a heavy
box-end wrench on the 1-1/4th inch castellated nut (actual size seems to be 31.75 mm,
so you could also try a 31 or 32 mm wrench).   Using a a large adjustable wrench (or
24 mm or 15/16" open end wrench) on the axle double-D flatted area, unscrew the axle/nut. 
If the assembly is extremely tight, you might have problems gaining proper leverage, in
which case you might consider having the inside wrench rest on the rear suspension area,
as a support-stop.   With the axle out, you can now remove the hub/disc assembly   
Remove the old seals, using a wood support & broad screwdriver.  AVOID nicking/scraping
the hub bore when doing that.   Discard the seals; although if there is a part number on
yours, you might want to write that down for reference.   Inspect the hub bearing fit
entrance area. 

If replacing bearings:
If any metal is proud into the bore, fix that first, so the bearing, which is a close fit, can be
easily removed in the following procedure. 
  Heat the hub on an electric hot plate.  The hot
plate should have a metal covering or plate, don't use it just with the electric coils showing. 
Set the outer, aluminum flange wheel mounting area DOWN onto the hot plate.  The proper
amount of heat is until a wetted finger sizzles when touched to the top aluminum hub where
the bearing enters.   You can put a dry towel over the unit to help heating. Using leather or
cloth gloves, and if need be a flat end drift and very small hammer (carefully, to avoid nicking
or scraping the bore), push or lightly hammer the bearings out from the other side; repeat for
both.  They might even fall out.  Don't loose the inner sleeve.   

Allow the hub assembly to cool.    Clean the counter-bore very carefully.  Use rags and
evaporating solvents.  Don't leave anything at the sharp lower corner of the counterbore.  
If there is not a very smooth and SMALL radius for the bearing entry, on both sides of the
hub assembly, make them.  Be SURE the counter-bore and hub bore is clean after this.  
Clean the inner sleeve.

Find something, perhaps an old large socket, that is a SLIGHTLY smaller diameter than
the counter-bore, that the hub assembly can rest on, when cooling. 

Chill the new bearings in your freezer.   Reheat the hub, exactly as before.  At the sizzle
temperature (of the aluminum hub area where the bearing enters), using leather or cloth
gloves, drop the new bearing into the top hub, squarely, and it should slide right in without
any pressure.  If you do not do this squarely, the bearing will not slide right in.  Keeping the
bearing in place with a finger or two of one hand, turn the hub over, and install the SLEEVE,
and then the other bearing.  Immediately, while the hub is still at sizzle temperature, place
the hub with its new bearings and the sleeve, over the old large socket that fits into the
counterbore area, and set the entire assembly on a table to cool.   Be sure the top bearing
is seated.    The outer hub should be UP, disc DOWN.  The bearings should have remained
FULLY installed. BE SURE that they are.   Let the hub cool to at least handling temperature,
or to room temperature.   Then set the hub on the bench, either side up is OK from now on.

If the bearings are OK, & are of the greasable type, force a good quality disc brake type
bearing grease into them.

Installing the seals:
BE SURE you use the CORRECT size seals on the correct side!  The INNER seal has the
32 mm center. OUTER seal is 30 mm.  Double check yourself before starting the seal work
& during it!  Install the outer seal so that it is flush, or not more than a tiny bit below flush.

NOTE on the inner seal thickness:
The counterbore depth on the suspension (inside) of the hub is LESS than that depth at the
outer seal.  When you install a 7 mm seal on the inside of the hub, that seal will be slightly
proud of the surface.  For a perfect flat fit, you could use a 6 mm seal.  HOWEVER, you
will probably find that 6 mm seals are not all that common, AND, you will probably find that
the 7 mm seal will put the sealing LIP in a better position for the suspension seal lip area. 
Because of this, I recommend you use 7 mm seals.

Place fresh grease liberally into a seal's open end.  Install the seal, using an old socket that
is a just a wee bit smaller in diameter than the seal outside diameter.    Install the seal EVENLY
and SQUARELY, open greased end towards the new bearing.  Lubricate the seal lip with
grease.  Do the other side with the other seal in the same manner.   Be very careful not to
nick the seal inner lip(s).

The hub is now almost ready to be reinstalled.  If need be, polish, with very very fine grit
sandpaper, the suspension lip; be sure its outer edge is not sharp. If the lip is gritty, it will
wear out the new seal in short order, so clean the suspension lip & bore area.  Clean up the
axle if needed; must be no proud metal; just smooth, clean, & not too sharp-edged, so
things will push together smoothly.  Be sure the suspension lip is smooth, & greased lightly,
and the axle over its length, including the seal area next to the double D flatted area!

Install the hub & GREASED axle slowly & carefully, to avoid seal damage.  With no sharp
edges, you will be fine.  Install the castellated nut rather tightly; align the axle whilst doing
this, so that the NEW cotter key can be properly installed (remember that you have to be
able to bend one tang of the cotter key back over the axle end or the nut).  

Reassemble the caliper, etc. to the suspension.  Inspect the caliper pads, caliper pistons,
etc., for dirt before assembling.  DO NOT KINK THE HYDRAULIC HOSE, not even for an can ruin the tiny inside plastic tubing.


1.  Do NOT press the bearings out, or in, with the WHEEL hub cold.  This is STANDARD
     procedure for alloy hubs.
2.  Don't forget the inner spacer when installing the new bearings. If you do forget it is not a
     big deal, the hub is usable without it.
3.  You can use sealed or non-sealed bearings.  If you use non-sealed bearings, be sure they
     are well packed with a quality non-fibrous wheel bearing grease before the seals are
     installed, with extra grease in the cavity area.
4.  Use grade C3 bearings. Do NOT use tighter tolerance bearings.
Be sure the area of the axle where it fits into the outer seal is smooth. The axle, smooth
     & lightly greased, will pass into the seal without nicking the sealing lip(s).
6.  Be sure that the lipped area of the suspension is smooth.

Shock absorber & Spring unit:

Numbers below (#x and #xx) refer to my below photo of the disassembled unit

Note:  This shock absorber is more sophisticated than it appears at first glance after disassembly. 
It is velocity sensitive, & stiffens differently than you might (??) expect, in a situation where there
may be multiple quick irregularities in the road.

I will describing this shock absorber as having a top & a bottom.   The shock absorber is installed
with the Adjustor (18) slanted DOWNward, so that end is the "bottom", as I describe things here.  

The steel body of the shock absorber unit is item marked as #16.
***NOT SHOWN in the photo is a removable round steel tube located inside that #16 body.  That
steel tube has two small holes at one end, that end faces item #18.  The tube is approximately
4.1" in length and approximately 1.34" in outside diameter.   When assembling the shock absorber,
it would be a good idea to assemble the steel tube to the upper components, and then put the upper
components into item #18 as one assembly.  This would avoid a potential problem (which I did not
look into) of the upper components 'hanging-up' on the removable internal steel tube.

The top eye (11) is fitted, as is the bottom eye, with a stiff rubber part that has a steel center sleeve,
& it is via this sleeve that bolts pass through to mount the shock unit to the sidecar suspension & frame.
The top eye (11) has fitted to it a hard-chromed (for long wear) steel ROD.  Unless the rod is
damaged, there is NO reason to try to remove it from the top eye (11). 
I have NO idea where one
might obtain a rod.  If damaged, an original rod probably could be ground & re-plated with hard chrome.

The shock absorber assembly has an owner-adjustment; that is the aluminum bottom part (18),
hereinafter called the Adjustor,  that has the decorative vertical hand-grooves.  While many motorcycle
shock absorber spring units are adjusted by a hooked spanner wrench, that is not so on this EML shock. 
This part is meant to be adjusted by one's hand....probably easier with the suspension extended,....
that means jacking the main sidecar frame (not suspension), until the wheel is just barely off the ground.  
This item (18) has a rubber O-ring both inside (in a groove for it, item #1) the lower area of this Adjustor,
that serves almost no purpose except to keep dirt out of the internal threads & to help resist rotation
slightly; & a similar O-ring above it, item #15, same idea.  I believe the threads, as well as these O-rings
& #14 mating surfaces should be lubricated with silicone grease during assembly, to make the Adjustor
work more smoothly with less effort, over long periods of time, & the silicone grease probably will
greatly increase the life of the O-rings. 

The Adjustor (18) has finely pitched internal threads, mating to hidden threads (when assembled) on
the outside of the shock absorber body item 16.  Numerous turns of this Adjustor can be made. 
The adjustment is for preload on the SPRING, to set ride height for weight being carried.  The
Adjustor does NOT adjust the shock absorber internals.     The Adjustor (18) is internally threaded
nearly its entire length, so it can be adjusted fairly high, as well as quite low.    Item #14 sits just
above this Adjustor (8), and between them is one of the O-rings, item #15.  Item #14 is lightly close
fitting, but movable, on the shock body (16). More about item #14 well below, in more than one place.


In order to remove the spring, you do PROBABLY DO NOT NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR!......
the Adjustor (18) can be lowered substantially.  If need be, thumb pressure on the top area will
release the top plate....this Keeper/Top Perch (#12) can then be removed.  It has a lower lip,
so #18 must be rather fully loosened.  When re-installing #18, I suggest it be adjusted to engage
enough item 16 threads so that the bottom-most area of 18 will properly clear any associated
brackets.  NOTE the flattened area on #18, I believe the factory did that so that the bracketry
would not contact #18, as the suspension moved.  Pay attention to this during installation.

Spring (13):  
    free standing length:   7.75" 
    coils diameter:             0.300" as stock, chrome plated
    outside diameter:        2.325"

Shock absorber over-all length, as assembled, center of eye #17 to center of eye #11, 
12-3/16" approximately.

You MAY have to fashion some sort of a press, if the EML spring on your shock is longer than
the one on mine.... to allow you to remove the keeper (#12).... so the spring (#13) can be
removed.  Do NOT scratch or nick the piston ROD!!    
I did NOT have to use a press, as when I unscrewed #18 far enough but nowhere near the end
of threads, nor even near covering any of the eye....I could press with my fingers on the upper
spring area, and remove the keeper relatively easily.   

NOTE!...Spring (#13) fits INto the top of item #14.   There MAY be a difference between
one end of YOUR spring and the other end, be sure you fit the spring so it SEATS on
the LIP of #14.  See note later on my making of a replacement spring perch (14).

After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand pressure, moving the eye
ends (11 and (17), towards and away from each other, at varying amounts of rod depth and
speed.   Do this with the Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, and the unit vertical.     When a shock
absorber fails, it usually does so from fluid leaking by the top seals (9 and 9A), and the
resulting failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position, easily felt, for small or modest up and down
movements of the piston ROD.  Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, & middle, & near fully-in
positions, checking EACH POSITION with a short movement.  Move it over the full range in one
motion too.  Dead spots are NOT acceptable.  A good shock unit has NO dead spots over any
part of its normal travel.   The major reason for a dead spot on this type of shock absorber is a
lack of enough oil.  Since the shock's normal position with a light load in the sidecar is with the
shock unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.  The amount of oil needed
will vary depending on if a shock is completely cleaned, dry, and empty, and if just a fluid change.
Because of that, I have not specified a quantity.

These shock absorbers will also fail from break-up of disc, item #4.

You may need to fashion a tool to unscrew the top plate (8), which has 4 holes for a sturdy pin
wrench.  Fashion a proper tool; this is NOT the place to use a hammer and a round punch.  
The top plate (8) may be very tight.   If your pin wrench will not loosen it, place the shock unit
in your freezer overnight, first...the aluminum top plate (8) should shrink more than the steel body,
easing its removal.   When I reassembled the shock absorber, I made sure the inside & outside
threads were clean & dry, then I put a light smear of Hylomar sealant onto the CAP threads (NOT
BODY THREADS), letting the sealant set up a few minutes in the air, before tightening it with the
pin wrench.  I did this to give added protection against any oil leakage.   

The top plate (8) has TWO oil seals (9, 9A), & they are NOT the same seals!  The top cap is
counterbored at each end, where the two seals (9, 9A) are installed.  I measured the approximate
size of these seals & of the counterbore areas.  The two counterbore areas are NOT the same
diameter.   The lower bore has a diameter of 0.745" (18.9 mm); the top bore (this  is the bore
that contains the seal one sees from the outside after the unit is all assembled) is 0.710" diameter
(18.03 mm).   The chromed piston ROD is 0.470" diameter (11.94 mm).   I inspected the existing
seals.   They are squarely pressed-in, perhaps helped by heating the top plate (8).

The TOP seal had the name ERIKS on it, with numbering of      12 18 3.5 - 5      exactly as shown
to the left here.   Obviously this means a seal of 12 mm central hole, 18 mm outside diameter; not
sure of the 3.5, but 5 mm for mounting width is correct.  This seal was unusual in that it had a
projection upwards, tapered, that would help keep filth out of the shock unit.  THAT may have been
the ""3.5""  .  I was totally unable to get Eriks distributor or factory to respond in my request for
information & availability on this seal.   For that matter, I could not identify the exact Merkel seal
below, either, with distributors.   The numbering is too old, or, foreign, or?? 

The LOWER seal had a number  S9251+ on it, and mfr was Merkel.  The lower counterbore
diameter was 0.745" (18.9mm).  Thus, I suspect we need a 19 mm OD seal, with a 12 mm
inside diameter, 5 mm width.   NOTE that these seals do NOT have the same style of lip, etc.

Not being able to locate the original seals, & NOT being happy with the lower seal in any event,
I decided to install standard industrial lipped seals, of the type backed up on one side, with a
'garter spring'.  These only work FAIR...& I may replace them at some future date, modifying
the cover, item 8, if I have to.

The TOP seal I used was:   12 x 18 x 3 mm  type HMS4R; AND, this seal was installed with the
garter spring, open side, DOWNWARD.   I could not find a seal like the original, which had a
tapered section going upward....that is, it would stick well up towards the spring eye.  A 5 mm
or even wider seal could be used at the top.

The BOTTOM seal I used was:   12 x 19 x 5 mm  type HMS4R.   When selecting a seal, note
that this seal can not be too much wider than 5 mm as the SLIDER has a projection at its top,
that fits into the bottom seal cavity very slightly.  The direction for seal's installation could be
debated.   For best sealing against pressure from the oil/air inside the shock, the seal would
have its garter downward.  Upward might seal better against dirt.

Many other types of seals could be used.    I installed the seals with the top cap hot, with a
trace of rubber cement around the outside diameter of the seals, but I think the seals could be
installed with the top cap at room temperature and without any cement.   Seals in many widths
are available.  3 mm, 4.5 mm, 5 mm, and even wider.  Nitrile would be a good material for the
seals.  Seals are usually manufactured as 18 or 19 mm, but they are, in fact, made very slightly
larger, so they are a press fit.  Mentioned here in case you see your 18 seal being 18.059,
the 19 at 19.23...or some such.

hoped these seals would provide total sealing against oil leakage and from outside dirt and filth. 
They leaked some, over time/miles.

After you remove the top cap (8) with a pin wrench and have removed the internal assembly,
you will find that the steel shock absorber body (16) contains a precision INternal sleeve, in its
lower body area.   It is inside this sleeve that the piston (3) and other parts operate.

Describing the eye (11)/ROD assembly from the top;....the eye (11) with its steel sleeve surrounded
by rubber, has the long piston ROD going downward.  On that ROD are located the following parts,
continuing here going downward:
    a.  A large rubber bumper (10) that prevents the ROD assembly from bottoming out in the lower
         steel body (16) of the shock absorber.   This bumper (10) is about 3.85" in diameter, has its
         rounded nose end DOWNWARD, and its width is about 0.95". Its inside diameter is such that
         it can move with slight pressure on the rod.
    b.  The threaded aluminum top cap (8) you unscrewed to gain access, that has the 4 pin holes.
         This part contains internal seals, 9 and 9A, for which replacements are NOT YET clear to
          me.  ****I am not happy about the sealing of the parts I used here, and may modify the top at
          some later date for a different type of seal.
    c.  A rubber O-ring (7), of approximately 1.222" inside diameter, 1.425" outside diameter, 0.095"
         thickness.  These numbers do not exactly add up, that is, twice the thickness plus the ID is
         not the OD...due to inability to measure the old one exactly.    This rubber O-ring (7) fits in a
         machined area of the SLIDER, and I make note here that this machined area is similar to the
         one at the other end of the SLIDER, but the LOWER end of the SLIDER does NOT have an
         O-ring fitted; AND  the LOWER end of the SLIDER has three notches machined
         into the outer edge; AND, a small hole in the lower flange.   Do NOT! install the
         slider upside down!!!
The TOP flange of the SLIDER has a 0.744" round projection at the
         center...that fits into the top cap slightly.    This particular top O-ring is mickey-mouse, in MY
         estimation, as to how it nothing is there to keep it from slipping off the top of 
         the SLIDER and moving inwards.  Be careful upon assembly, after which it will be OK.
    d.  There is a harder rubber bumper (6) of 0.903" outside diameter; 0.20" width, fitted just below
          the SLIDER.  Its inside diameter is such that it moves relatively freely on the rod.
    e.  A steel plate (5), domed on one side, with the FLAT side UP.
    f.  TWO very thin flexible steel plates (#4).   DO NOT remove one to reduce shock stiffness, as
         the remaining one will crack and break up eventually.  IF you have a broken one, you CAN
         assemble the shock with just ONE, but it may break sooner than later. 
I haven't any idea
         where to get more of these steel plates (#4).  I surely would like to have new ones for my
         own shock unit.  If you locate a source, do let me know.

    g.  A piston (3) of alloy material, containing not just its center mounting hole, but 6 surrounding
         holes.  The FLAT end of this piston must be UP.  In that position, a nut (2), 13 mm wrench
         size, is in the lower counter-bored end of the piston.   I used Loctite BLUE on cleaned
         threads.   Note that item 4 covers some of each outside edge hole; reducing the diameter of
         item #4 will change the shock action.

It is CRITICAL that parts ...especially the steel plates & installed correctly, in
the correct order!  NOTE ESPECIALLY the fitment of the domed washer (#5), the DOME
fits DOWNward against the steel plates (#4)!

Item #14, the spring perch, has a step in it to fit into the spring.  The step locates the spring
concentrically to the shock absorber body, so that the spring can not move sideways and touch
the body, where it would wear the body, but more importantly, would make squeaking noises. 

****Item 14 seemed to be very hard rubber & was in poor condition on my shock absorber, &
fit much too tightly to the body, particularly the OD threads area.  If yours is OK, you should
make sure it slides easily onto the shock body, making item #18 easier to adjust.  I threw away
 item 14 & made a new one out of aluminum on my lathe.  I put a slight relief on its underside
for the #15 O-ring, although this is hardly necessary.  Item 15 could be eliminated. 

Item #2 is a 13 mm hex nut.
Item #4 consists of TWO thin flexible steel washer-plates, and TWO are needed, for additional
strength and proper valving.



















This shock absorber works in BOTH directions, and its action in those directions is
NOT equal, by design.  That is, the 'bound-rebound' are quite different.   The unit is
also velocity sensitive.   The fit of the piston (3) to the inside lower body (16) sleeve
ensures that relatively little oil under mild road irregularities will go through the piston.  
That is controlled by the thin steel flexible discs.  The notches in the aluminum Slider,
together with the lower steel plates (4, 5) and piston (3) holes, and the #4 plates, all
determine many of the characteristics of the shock absorber (together with the
diameter of the piston, etc).  

Shock Absorber fluid quantity and recommendations, etc:

***This is a repeat of a previous paragraph:
After the spring (13) is removed, you can test the shock unit by hand pressure, moving
the eye ends (11 & (17), towards & away from each other, at varying amounts of rod depth
& speed.   Do this with the Adjustor end (8) DOWNward, & the unit vertical.   When these 
shock absorbers fail, it usually does so from fluid leaking by the top seals (9 and 9A),
although ring (item #4) can also break.  A too little oil failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position,
easily felt, for small or modest up & down movements of the piston ROD.  Move the piston
ROD to near fully-out, & middle, & near fully-in positions, checking EACH POSITION with a
short movement back and forth slightly, IN that position.  ALSO move it over the full range in
one motion.  Dead spots are NOT acceptable.  A good shock unit has NO dead spots over
any part of its normal travel.   The major reason for a dead spot on this type of shock
absorber is a lack of enough oil.  Since the shock's normal position with a light load in the
sidecar is with the shock unit nearly fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too. 
The amount of oil needed will vary depending on if a shock is completely cleaned, dry,
& empty, or if just a fluid change. Because of that, I have not specified a quantity.

The oil should be of a type meant for shock absorbers or suspensions.  If you do not use such an oil,
it could foam-up during use.   It should have a REASONABLY GOOD Viscosity Index, which means
that it does not change thickness too rapidly with temperature changes.  Shock units are affected
not only by ambient temperatures, but from temperature developed internally:  as the road surface
becomes more and more irregular, the shock unit is moving fluid internally through its
passageways/orifices, etc, and the fluid will heat up some from this 'work'. 

The shock unit I worked on for this article had a few ounces at best of fluid left in it.  I set up a crude
apparatus to measure the oil viscosity at room temperature, as best I could.   I compared the oil with
known viscosity suspension/shock fluid oils.   I used the same temperature (55F happened to be the
temperature in the shop that day) for all tests.   I measured the time in seconds for the same amount
of fluid to flow, from a same size tiny diameter of outlet, from a same tallness of container. Admittedly
a crude method; none-the-less it gave reasonably repeatable results.   I tested quite a few synthetic &
part-synthetic fork oils & suspension fluids.  I used a well-known high quality & reliable brand, so all
tests would be repeatable & usable from the ONE manufacturer's stated specifications.   It is not widely
known that shock & suspension fluids will vary considerably between brands, with the same 'stated'
viscosity.  There is an article on this website, that discusses & lists many manufacturer's oils, & actual
commercial laboratory tests on them, INCLUDING the two oils I have used in this EML 310 shock

The fluid I selected for my first try was Golden Spectro Shock Fluid, Ultra Light, code L.SFUL.  The L
supposedly means it came in one liter size bottle.  It has a manufacturer's specification at 40C of
10.4 cST, and a VI of 385.  That should be good in this application.  While there are formulas on this
website to convert cST to SUS, I will do it for you:  SUS = 61

Long after I first overhauled this shock absorber, I took it apart again, & after finishing my changes,
I used Spectro cartridge forks fluid 85/150. I preferred the results.

Do NOT! install engine oils, heavy fork oils, etc.   IN MY OPINION the SAE for the oil should not
exceed 5, or for very heavy loads, 7.5. 


The K bike incorporates a bulb monitoring relay black box, that is rather complicated in how it works.
There are also two versions, using the same identical number on them.
You may want to modify this relay.  I have a photo, and details, in item #2 in this article:  


Tail Light housing & plastic lens.  I did a LOT of in-depth searching for the
information on these.  As best I know, the correct information follows:

Seems to be 1979 through the 1980's,  Suzuki Alto,
right rear, probably used on at least the 5 door
hatchback version.  This Alto was shipped all over the world (no form of it ever imported for sale
in USA, as far as I know).  It was often sold under other names, such as Sierra, Muruti, etc.
Remco Winkelhuis of EML confirmed that the rear light of GT2 & GT3 was from a Suzuki Alto 
80-90's era model....but was not specific.
Not all the models of cars had them for all years in that yearly range.  The Suzuki branded cars are
generally referred to as Generation Model numbers that seem confirmed to have the specific tail light
plastic lenses are:  SS30V, SS40V, SS80S, SS80V.

Note:  Certain models do NOT have the correct lens:  1973-1979 LS30/SH10 Hatch; 1990-1991 Holden
Barina; Suzuki Cultus for 1991-1998; Suzuki Swift 1.6L; Suzuki Swift GTi; Suzuki Forsa 1985-1988 (Canada);
Pontiac Firefly 1985-1988 (Canada).

My GT2 had markings on the plastic lens:
SAE  A  84
1A E6 014246
Tokaidenso, Japan  
35603-7800R is on the yellow lens. 35701-7800R is on the red lens. 36250-7800R is on the clear lens.
35603-7800L is NOT the correct part.
It is likely that other markings will be seen, & probably none are important but the ones above.
For instance: the
amber part had 6313 on it; the red part had 7326 on it, & 85003.
I obtained my spare assembly from SUZI FOUR company. 
Their address is 112 Dunheved Circuit; Nth St Marys NSW 2760
E-mail is:
On the internet:
Telephone (02) 9833 0216
Fax (02) 9833 1784

Below, to left, a poor photo, but it is of              Below is a closeup photo of the right
what is believed to be one of the various            rear plastic lens of the GT2. The GT3
cars that the rear taillight assembly of the          is the same.  Illuminated here by the
EML GT2 & GT3 came from.  NOTE                 camera flash only. As seen here, the
that the proper lens for the sidecar is the           right side of the lens DOES wrap 
right rear, not the left rear of the car.                 around slightly, but not much.  The
See the red arrow I put on the photo.                lens may look, with your eye and no            
                                                                      flash, to be slightly different in color, etc.


Front Light housing:
Possibly Mazda part   BZ0189662  ???   It is still unclear what the number really is.
Front Light plastic lens:  
My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
         210-41788R      Jap. "Koito" brand with markings:    <716

The spare/replacement assembly I obtained from Dave Edwards, below,  had the same sort of
plastic lens, but different numbers on it.

The first photo, below, shows the front lamp as used on the Mazda 323 Notchback.
The following photo, with a different angle, shows the same lamp (YES, it IS!) on my GT2

Dave Edwards got his hands on some brand-new FRONT lamp assemblies.   Complete
assemblies, including outer lens, etc. 
Contact him directly:

FRONT lens & assembly was from THIS Mazda car:






















NOTE!    There is an EML sidecar group on the Internet:

I am a Member, Moderator, and Participant

I am looking for:
1.  Some of the steel flexible discs item #4 in the EML shock absorber sketch; or, the whole shock (??)/
2. Top oil seals (all of these rubber bits) for this same shock

snowbum E-mail address:  CLICK

Release:   01-19-2007

Revisions and dates:
01/23/2007:  annotations, pad information, information on lenses
01/27/2007:  minor editing and clarifications
02/21/2007:  update brake pads, calipers, and kit information
02/28/2007:  More info...Flexit, EZS, etc.
04/25/2007:  Add Magura information
05/23/2007:  Put ELECTRICS in sequence, clean up page appearance slightly; minor updates.
07/18/2007:  Add hyperlink
09/17/2007:  Add information on old EML front marker lamps
10/13/2007:  Add 4 photos of very early EML and Grimeca brake
02/16/2008:  Updated information about EML, Eurowing, & EML Yahoo groups website
03/15/2008:  Removed Flexit information, which will be put in its own article
05/05/2008:  Add right rear view of my rig, for a view of the top I built.
09/18/2008:  Add section with hyperlinks to the EML old brochure
10/06/2008:  very minor updating on EZS
03/27-28/2009:  Begin to add information on PIVOT & additional information on the shock unit.
03/29/2008:  Complete the information on the shock unit.
03/31/2009:  Add more information on the pivot bearing.
04/04/2009:  Complete pivot reassembly & toe-in, ETC., & update this article.  Release to Internet.
04/26/2010:  fix hyperlink to .taw
07/21/2010:  Add sale items
07/26/2010:  Remove sale items
11/04/2010:  Remove old brochure photos and their links, in favor of new, better photos.
02/27/2011:  Remove bad hyperlink
03/29/2011:  Add photos and information about Dave Edwards, regarding the front lamp assembly
03/30/2011:  Remove references to Dave Edwards, regarding availability of front lens and lamp
                   assembly, as all are now sold.
04/07/2011:  Clean up article so it is easier to read and understand.
05/26/2011:  Even more cleanup
06/22/2011:  add reference to the front lamps again, as two more are available.
06/29/2011:  Add annotated photo of the TUG rim
07/13/2011:  Fix bad hyperlinks for vintagebrake
08/17/2012:  Add some information on disc dimensions
08/22/2012:  Add line & link to K-hints, for bulb monitoring relay information in the Electrics section
08/30/2012:  Add QR code, change Google code, add small amount of information on rear taillight
09/03/2012:  Add photo and comment for the Suzuki Alto rear.
05/06/2013:  Add a bit of information about Eurowing communications in April 2013.
05/14/2013:  Modify Hella lamp info.
06/27/2013:  Add Grimeca factory hyperlink
07/18/2013:  Add some seal numbers.
08/11/2013:  Add availability of front lamp assemblies from David Edwards.
08/19/2013:  Add availability of the Firestone F560 tires
02/17/2014:  Minor updates, clean up article a bit too
05/08/2014:  Add information about weight measurements for my GT2, as attached.
07/29/2014:  Update information on the shock absorber unit
09/06/2014:  Clean up article a bit more
04/08/2015:  Add confirmation on the rear light, provided by Al Olme; who obtained it from Remco.
04/10/2015:  Add photo of lense of my GT2, and comments on it.
04/13/2015:  Add note regarding Suzuki models that seem confirmed as having that rear lense, slight update on E.ML.
04/18/2015:  Clarified some details on that rear lense.
04/30/2015:  Obtained a spare rear lamp assembly, and updated this article with the information.
05/07/2015:  Clarify that oil quantity is not specified, and that tests show correct amount, move copy of paragraph downwards for clarity.
06/22/2015:  Add more photos:  Grimeca caliper, pads, dimensions.  very minor update on wanted stuff on 08/19/2015
12/07/2015:  brand-new disc information.  Clean up article, fix meta-coding, move article to left side justification and narrowed article.

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

Return to Technical Articles LIST Page

Return to HomePage